[SSuper Dave]

Cam, here is a pic that shows the color a bit better. There is no way to dehumidify with the doors open, and it suffocate with them closed. If I had more roo, I'd have one of those roll around protable a/c units, but this garage is small.

 

[GeneF]

My '24 Mustang GT sits outside, day and night, so every 6 months, I do a clay bar, paint correction when needed and wax. Well today was the day. Considering that it lives outside, the little bit of trash the clay pulled off is a credit to my OCD weeky cleaning procedure. I have some waxes that shine better than Collinite 845 that I use on my garaged cars, but noting stands up to the weather better than Collinite. Once my '70 Elky is done, my '68 Caprice is going into storage to be kept as a retirement project, then the Mustang can go in the garage.

View attachment 831983
View attachment 831984
View attachment 831985
View attachment 831987

I am scared to use a clay bar. Maybe if I had a buddy that could show me, but on my own - NO WAY! What is that wax? Where did you get it? What makes it special?

 

[GeneF]

A man after my own heart. I washed the car this morning before the sun was overhead, clay bar was done 2 months ago.

SSuper Dave, that's a great blue, almost Grabber Blue. A significant historical color for Mustang aficionados.

Didn't they use that color one year only on the sport line of the Ford Escorts? I can not recall the name of the color.

 

[SSuper Dave]

A clay bar is easy and non invasive to use. You can get a Meguires kit to start with at any parts house. You spray the surface with quick detailer, spray the bar and rub it on the paint, keeping the surface wet. You'll be amazed at what it pulls off of the paint. I use water in a spray bottle witha bit of dish detergent, as I go thru so much of it. Youtube it, you owe it to yourself to try it.
The wax is available here Last Step Car Insulator Wax | Collinite Since 1936
I am super OCD about everything, but especially this car, I plan on it lasting me forever.
Grabber Blue was a '70-'71 color, and was a non metallic. There may have been some special editions with it, but I can't say for sure. It came back in the Mustang around 2010. I work in the service dept at a Ford dealer, and I can tell you we see very few in this. We've only had one other new one besides mine on the lot.

 

[AztecCamino]

I'm working on being really frustrated....
I've had a small oil leak for a while, I think it was coming from the valve cover gaskets and running down to the flexplate cover and dripping off everything on the bottom end. (hoping my rear seal isn't contributing to the leak).
I'm running factory powerpack heads and factory steel valve covers for the factory look. I have roller rockers and when I pulled the covers of I have a witness mark from the front and rear rocker on the inside of the valve covers. Just a touch, so I didn't think it was a problem.
I spent two afternoons cleaning the mating surfaces, straightening the valve covers and then forming them to fit the head casting which isn't flat, it drops a bout 1/16" at the lower corners for whatever reason. Then I tried using permatex airplane gasket seal to glue the rubber gasket to the covers. It doesn't want to grip the gasket where I had to form the valve cover to fit the head exactly, but it should hold the gasket in place till I get it tightened. Then I used (sparingly to not allow it to squeeze into the valve train) blue RTV to the head.
I installed them with light torque (real light) overnight to let the RTV set and snugged them down (again not too much).

Good news... the right side doesn't leak

Left side leaks waaaay worse now and I am now getting smoke out the exhaust on the left side. I'm not sure how I caused oil to leak into the cylinders on the left side.

I've stopped to let the engine cool off (and me) so I can look closer at the oily mess.

Question: could the rocker touching the inside of the valve cover cause oil to enter the combustion chamber?

 

[drivejunk]

I'm working on being really frustrated....
I've had a small oil leak for a while, I think it was coming from the valve cover gaskets and running down to the flexplate cover and dripping off everything on the bottom end. (hoping my rear seal isn't contributing to the leak).
I'm running factory powerpack heads and factory steel valve covers for the factory look. I have roller rockers and when I pulled the covers of I have a witness mark from the front and rear rocker on the inside of the valve covers. Just a touch, so I didn't think it was a problem.
I spent two afternoons cleaning the mating surfaces, straightening the valve covers and then forming them to fit the head casting which isn't flat, it drops a bout 1/16" at the lower corners for whatever reason. Then I tried using permatex airplane gasket seal to glue the rubber gasket to the covers. It doesn't want to grip the gasket where I had to form the valve cover to fit the head exactly, but it should hold the gasket in place till I get it tightened. Then I used (sparingly to not allow it to squeeze into the valve train) blue RTV to the head.
I installed them with light torque (real light) overnight to let the RTV set and snugged them down (again not too much).

Good news... the right side doesn't leak

Left side leaks waaaay worse now and I am now getting smoke out the exhaust on the left side. I'm not sure how I caused oil to leak into the cylinders on the left side.

I've stopped to let the engine cool off (and me) so I can look closer at the oily mess.

Question: could the rocker touching the inside of the valve cover cause oil to enter the combustion chamber?

I don't see how unless it leaked at top and got sucked in by an intake vacuum leak there. But in case you weren't aware... 5/16" thick valve cover gaskets are available-

Amazon.com: JEGS Valve Cover Gaskets | Fits Small Block Chevy | Cork/Nitrile With Metal Core | 5/16" Thick | Made In USA : Automotive

Buy JEGS Valve Cover Gaskets | Fits Small Block Chevy | Cork/Nitrile With Metal Core | 5/16" Thick | Made In USA: Valve Cover Gasket Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[AztecCamino]

I don't see how unless it leaked at top and got sucked in by an intake vacuum leak there. But in case you weren't aware... 5/16" thick valve cover gaskets are available-

Amazon.com: JEGS Valve Cover Gaskets | Fits Small Block Chevy | Cork/Nitrile With Metal Core | 5/16" Thick | Made In USA : Automotive

Buy JEGS Valve Cover Gaskets | Fits Small Block Chevy | Cork/Nitrile With Metal Core | 5/16" Thick | Made In USA: Valve Cover Gasket Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Thanks, ordered now. I was going to search for the thick ones next.
Could the rocker touching the valve cover do any damage to the valve shaft or pushrod? Keep in mind the touch actually pushed the steel of the valve cover up a little, so little that you can't see it unless you look for it, and I only spotted it after I saw the shiny mark in the inside of the valve cover. By my estimation it clearanced itself and the valve cover didn't put up much resistance.

 

[drivejunk]

Thanks, ordered now. I was going to search for the thick ones next.
Could the rocker touching the valve cover do any damage to the valve shaft or pushrod? Keep in mind the touch actually pushed the steel of the valve cover up a little, so little that you can't see it unless you look for it, and I only spotted it after I saw the shiny mark in the inside of the valve cover. By my estimation it clearanced itself and the valve cover didn't put up much resistance.

Unless the lifter bottomed out there shouldn't be anything bad but for sure, pull that pushrod and roll it on a flat surface. It may have bent. If so, maybe also pull that lifter and look at it and that lobe.

A cranking pressure test would probably reveal whether the piston kissed a valve and bent.

Hold that valve cover up to the sun and check for a small split in the metal too, while you are there.

If oil accumulated along the top, a possibility exists that some made it's way into the heat crossover passage, which would make the smoke. Were your heads milled at all? Sometimes the intake needs milling to match the angles better, if so.

Just thoughts. I used run tall VC gaskets on my Pontiac, necessary to clear the roller rockers on BBC studs. Glued to just the covers with this, which us just right for that-

Amazon.com: Permatex 80064 High Tack Spray-A-Gasket Sealant, 4 oz. Aerosol Can , Black : Automotive

Buy Permatex 80064 High Tack Spray-A-Gasket Sealant, 4 oz. Aerosol Can , Black: Gasket - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[AztecCamino]

Unless the lifter bottomed out there shouldn't be anything bad but for sure, pull that pushrod and roll it on a flat surface. It may have bent. If so, maybe also pull that lifter and look at it and that lobe.

A cranking pressure test would probably reveal whether the piston kissed a valve and bent.

Hold that valve cover up to the sun and check for a small split in the metal too, while you are there.

If oil accumulated along the top, a possibility exists that some made it's way into the heat crossover passage, which would make the smoke. Were your heads milled at all? Sometimes the intake needs milling to match the angles better, if so.

Just thoughts. I used run tall VC gaskets on my Pontiac, necessary to clear the roller rockers on BBC studs. Glued to just the covers with this, which us just right for that-

Amazon.com: Permatex 80064 High Tack Spray-A-Gasket Sealant, 4 oz. Aerosol Can , Black : Automotive

Buy Permatex 80064 High Tack Spray-A-Gasket Sealant, 4 oz. Aerosol Can , Black: Gasket - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Tomorrow or Tuesday I'm going to pull the plugs and see if one is carboned up which would point to which rockers could have taken any damage.
Good tip on checking for compression too, Thanks.
I don't think the machine shop milled the heads and both the heads and intake are factory 1966 date coded.

Thanks for your help.

 

[GeneF]

I'm working on being really frustrated....
I've had a small oil leak for a while, I think it was coming from the valve cover gaskets and running down to the flexplate cover and dripping off everything on the bottom end. (hoping my rear seal isn't contributing to the leak).
I'm running factory powerpack heads and factory steel valve covers for the factory look. I have roller rockers and when I pulled the covers of I have a witness mark from the front and rear rocker on the inside of the valve covers. Just a touch, so I didn't think it was a problem.
I spent two afternoons cleaning the mating surfaces, straightening the valve covers and then forming them to fit the head casting which isn't flat, it drops a bout 1/16" at the lower corners for whatever reason. Then I tried using permatex airplane gasket seal to glue the rubber gasket to the covers. It doesn't want to grip the gasket where I had to form the valve cover to fit the head exactly, but it should hold the gasket in place till I get it tightened. Then I used (sparingly to not allow it to squeeze into the valve train) blue RTV to the head.
I installed them with light torque (real light) overnight to let the RTV set and snugged them down (again not too much).

Good news... the right side doesn't leak

Left side leaks waaaay worse now and I am now getting smoke out the exhaust on the left side. I'm not sure how I caused oil to leak into the cylinders on the left side.

I've stopped to let the engine cool off (and me) so I can look closer at the oily mess.

Question: could the rocker touching the inside of the valve cover cause oil to enter the combustion chamber?

I like to use a nutdriver (screwdrivewr thingy) so I don't overtightne them. I can add 1/4 turn per day, but once they are squashed it's over.

 

[Jasons 69 Chevelle]

I’ve been working on a 79 C10 since March, so far I’ve pulled the small block and th350 sold it. Rebuilt the 12 bolt installed a posi and 373 gears, installed a EFI tank, installed the old 5.3 and 4l60e that I was using in my Chevelle. Rebuilt brakes, driveshaft, new suspension bushings, ball joints, new upper control arms, installed cal trac style rear traction bars, variable rate steering box, installed new AC components, built the ac lines, just recently started the interior. Been working on an air intake parts have arrived so I’ll be getting that together this week.

before removing instrument cluster.

 

[Chris27]

I’ve been working on a 79 C10 since March, so far I’ve pulled the small block and th350 sold it. Rebuilt the 12 bolt installed a posi and 373 gears, installed a EFI tank, installed the old 5.3 and 4l60e that I was using in my Chevelle. Rebuilt brakes, driveshaft, new suspension bushings, ball joints, new upper control arms, installed cal trac style rear traction bars, variable rate steering box, installed new AC components, built the ac lines, just recently started the interior. Been working on an air intake parts have arrived so I’ll be getting that together this week. View attachment 832344
View attachment 832345
View attachment 832347
before removing instrument cluster.
View attachment 832346

Looking good, I've always loved the C-10's but I'm probably biased because my dad had a 1980 Big 10 that he bought new when we were growing up. We restored it in the mid 90's for my sister and I to drive when we got our licenses. What fuel rails are you using? I've never seen any that look like that.

 

[blm]

New axle studs on the way since I discovered my axles were drilled for 1/2 and I had a lucky ride a few days ago when the wheel came off and got wedged in the wheel well causing just wheel damage

View attachment 832043

I had same thing happen to me about five years ago. But I believe mine was due to loose lug nuts. Was very lucky as I had pulled off the road into a gravel lot and was only going about 5 mph when the wheel fell off. The tire/wheel got wedged into the wheel well and prevented the quarter panel from hitting the ground. Just a couple snapped off studs and some road rash on the back side of the wheel.

I did sit there from 10:30 PM to 6:30 AM waiting on a flat bed. I was able to remount wheel but with 2 or 3 broken studs I didn't want to drive the 20 miles home. Figured I pushed my luck far enough. Checking my lug nuts with a torque wrench is now part of my routine.

 

[Jasons 69 Chevelle]

Looking good, I've always loved the C-10's but I'm probably biased because my dad had a 1980 Big 10 that he bought new when we were growing up. We restored it in the mid 90's for my sister and I to drive when we got our licenses. What fuel rails are you using? I've never seen any that look like that.

This one’s a big 10 also had to remove a few rear leaf spring lol. Want to make it a nice cruiser.

 

[GeneF]

I’ve been working on a 79 C10 since March, so far I’ve pulled the small block and th350 sold it. Rebuilt the 12 bolt installed a posi and 373 gears, installed a EFI tank, installed the old 5.3 and 4l60e that I was using in my Chevelle. Rebuilt brakes, driveshaft, new suspension bushings, ball joints, new upper control arms, installed cal trac style rear traction bars, variable rate steering box, installed new AC components, built the ac lines, just recently started the interior. Been working on an air intake parts have arrived so I’ll be getting that together this week. View attachment 832344
View attachment 832345
View attachment 832347
before removing instrument cluster.
View attachment 832346

Lets say you wanted to put a 4L60E behind a traditional 350 with a carb. Where do you get a controller for that? Any requirements for that setup?

 

[123pugsy]

Lets say you wanted to put a 4L60E behind a traditional 350 with a carb. Where do you get a controller for that? Any requirements for that setup?

700-R4 is the same tranny, so that would be the wise choice.

 

[ChevelleFan70]

Lets say you wanted to put a 4L60E behind a traditional 350 with a carb. Where do you get a controller for that? Any requirements for that setup?

You'll likely need at least a Throttle Position Sensor, MAP sensor, and an RPM input for any controller. Like Pugsy said, 700R4 would be a lot easier. Plenty of TV cable setups for carbs.

 

[Jasons 69 Chevelle]

Lets say you wanted to put a 4L60E behind a traditional 350 with a carb. Where do you get a controller for that? Any requirements for that setup?

I’m using the MSD transmission controller. With the required 4L60E harness. (Part# 2770) It’s a couple power wires, speed signal wire,rpm signal, throttle position wire, brake on off. And a couple others. It also has a 5v signal wire for a carb. That MSD will run multiple transmissions it just needs the required harness the 4L80 would be a better choice if you want an electric transmission. 4l60 needs to be built up to handle power over stock and doesn’t fit a stock Chevelle tunnel. it does fit the C10 perfectly though.
7004r would be the easiest option

 

[Chris27]

I’m using the MSD transmission controller. With the required 4L60E harness. (Part# 2770) It’s a couple power wires, speed signal wire,rpm signal, throttle position wire, brake on off. And a couple others. It also has a 5v signal wire for a carb. That MSD will run multiple transmissions it just needs the required harness the 4L80 would be a better choice if you want an electric transmission. 4l60 needs to be built up to handle power over stock and doesn’t fit a stock Chevelle tunnel. it does fit the C10 perfectly though.
7004r would be the easiest option

Why would a 4L60E not fit a Chevelle tunnel? Aren't they the same as a 700R4? Or are you talking about an LS style 4L60E?

 

[Jasons 69 Chevelle]

Why would a 4L60E not fit a Chevelle tunnel? Aren't they the same as a 700R4? Or are you talking about an LS style 4L60E?

4L60E doesn’t fit a Chevelle Tunnel it requires some hammering or cutting.
not sure about the none electric 4l60.