Hey guys just a quick question. I'm trying to get the most out of my 350 sbc, and i'm wondering what else i should do to make it an absolute street monster. its a 350 bored .30, .480 .480 cam, Vortec heads w/ stock springs, stock crank, 625 demon carb, headers w/ flomasters 40 series, , soon to install 373 gears in the rear, and bolted up to a stock th350 trans. If anyone is running the same set up and has had it dyno tested could you tell me how much power you think i'm putting out?
performance?????
reuter34
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Hey guys just a quick question. I'm trying to get the most out of my 350 sbc, and i'm wondering what else i should do to make it an absolute street monster. its a 350 bored .30, .480 .480 cam, Vortec heads w/ stock springs, stock crank, 625 demon carb, headers w/ flomasters 40 series, , soon to install 373 gears in the rear, and bolted up to a stock th350 trans. If anyone is running the same set up and has had it dyno tested could you tell me how much power you think i'm putting out?
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See all the posts about why those heads work better with a split-pattern cam.
They have all this wonderful intake flow, due to the ports being moved; but they have the same pitiful exh port as any other stock head.
Get the right cam for them. The Comp XE268 and XE274 are known to match them well, and the Voodoo ones of comparable sizes, or other modern cams with agressive lobes, should do well also. Avoid old designs like old stock cams, Magnum cams like yours, the old Lunati Bracket Master cams, etc. Those all might be, or have been, perfectly good cams for some applications; but not for this one.
The stock springs HAVE GOT TO GO. There's no option there. Get the right ones for whatever cam you end up with.
I agree about the converter; although with a more suitable cam, you might not need quite as much. But a stock one definitely won't do.
They have all this wonderful intake flow, due to the ports being moved; but they have the same pitiful exh port as any other stock head.
Get the right cam for them. The Comp XE268 and XE274 are known to match them well, and the Voodoo ones of comparable sizes, or other modern cams with agressive lobes, should do well also. Avoid old designs like old stock cams, Magnum cams like yours, the old Lunati Bracket Master cams, etc. Those all might be, or have been, perfectly good cams for some applications; but not for this one.
The stock springs HAVE GOT TO GO. There's no option there. Get the right ones for whatever cam you end up with.
I agree about the converter; although with a more suitable cam, you might not need quite as much. But a stock one definitely won't do.
i do plan to add a shift kit to it, and i've never heard of adding a split pattern cam to it. I LOVE the sound of that cam though, but if it really is hurting me that bad ill look into the correct one. With all the bugs worked out of the engine such as the cam and the springs what would i be putting out to the fly wheel?
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People regularly break 400 with the XE268, and 425 with the 274, according to time slips (real world, as installed in the car, with exhaust and accessories etc., as opposed to perfect conditions on the engine stand like in a magazine article). I'd expect the comparable Voodoo cams to put up similar numbers.
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7,226 Posts
People SWEAR by the XE268H for setups like yours and mine. You'll be close to 375 with a cam change I bet.
gotta watch those heads with bigger cams and lift. If the valve guides haven't already been modified they will have to be. This is a machine shop job, heads off the car. If you know for a fact that yours have already been done you can just run the springs recommended for the cam.
can he even be running .480 now with the heads stock?
Yes, but even an aftermarket 2,500 RPM stall speed converter would do much better than the factory piece which is probably only at about 1,800-2,200 RPM. Matching the converter stall speed to the cam is very important if you want your car to accelerate well. Do NOT overlook this.
I agree 100% about the stock springs being potential for valvetrain disaster with the aftermaraket performance cam.
I've heard a lot of great things about this cam:
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2325
here are poll results.....
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/poll.php?do=showresults&pollid=1383
and here are reviews....
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273582
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I noticed that when I read his post too, but forgot to mention it. He must have stronger springs in there already, huh?
Hmmmm.....I have to admit, I didn't know this^...I've never used Vortec heads myself.
I wouldn't assume that if I were him. :noway:
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I just read in a bunch of places that stock vortecs may take a .480 or .500 lift cam for a while. I see what you're saying.
Hey bro, I'm new here and we both are in the same exact boat. I have a new 350 but not bored, 750 E-carb with Comp 280h .480 on both sides and soon to be fully worked vortec heads as soon as they leave the shop. I had 3.42 before they broke a 700r4 w/ only servo and shift kit (stock tranny 155k miles) and I tell u I'm smoking stock and slightly modded LT1s out the frame, I also beat a vortec headed 383 short bed and a stock 80ish trans-am with a 406. And all this was with a set of 24" rims on.
Never raced the car without them, just wont hook at all. It barely hooked with those big rims on, had to always get off gas to stop the spin. But then I would jump so far out in front of the other guy that I could afford to let off a little. But now I have BFGs and going to stay that way. I have to change my cam when I change my heads to one of the XE cams. This is in my daily driver 87 chevy caprice. But anyways just wanted you to get a picture, I posted a thread on here about close to the same thing you're talking about and probably what everyone here is about to tell you, you can just read on this thread:http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280897
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