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RBRADLEY

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
If so, whats your experience? Do you like it?

How does it behave on the dry street? On the street in the rain?

How does it handle when turning a corner? How does it handle during a bend in the road?

Thanks
 
If so, whats your experience? Do you like it?

How does it behave on the dry street? On the street in the rain?

How does it handle when turning a corner? How does it handle during a bend in the road?

Thanks
Just a heads up for ya here...if you don't get many replies then try doing a search in the transmissions and driveline forum of this board, because i remember there being threads on this same topic in there awhile back. ;)
 
The detroit is a full case locker, and is a little noisy here and there.

I ran a richmond powertrax lock-rite(lunchbox locker replacing the replacing spider gears) in a GM A body and it performed flawlessly. They make a smoother functioning one if you don't like the clicking, but you barely hear that with 80w-140w gear oil. No problems what so ever in turned, unless you goose it on purpose and kick the rear end out. Drives straight down the highway with both wheels pulling.

I have had a lot of experience with lockers, and run the in both the front and rear axles of my 4x4's, and do this even on the street with the front hubs unlocked and auto hubs disengaged. I've ran them in chevy 10 bolt, 12 bolt, 14 bolt, dana 80, dana 60, dana 44, dana 35 and dana 30's.

If you are making good power wise to step up to chrome-ally axle shafts, and good ring and pinon gears and some thicker U joints.
 
It takes time getting use to. Rain sucks so be careful. Corners are not as bad as some say. It is loud. You will think you just broke something but you didn't. When you let off the throttle is bangs. When you punch it after rolling it bangs. But when you lay into it it is awsome. The duel black strips and all the smoke make it worth it. U-turns are wide but a little throttle fixes it fast.
 
In a normal open rear end, when going around a corner, power goes to both wheels, with the outer wheel spinning faster than the inner wheel. With a DL, going around a corner disengages the outer wheel through a ratchet mechanism, and only the inner wheel drives, which tries to push the car out of the turn if you accelerate or make the inside wheel break loose. Some people tollerate that and some don't. You must decide what you will tollerate. Some people also run blowers, nitrous, turbos, 700 inches, gear grives, rear gears in the high 5's on the street. And some don't.

I'd find someone in your area that has a DL and see if he will let you ride in his car. I would not advise buying a DL in the dark. They do what they are made to do and hold up well.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I wouldent say that I am "concerned" about how it handles, I just wanted a heads up about what to expect.

I don't mind trading off some comfort and a quiet ride for durability and performance. I am not building a luxury car but rather a rugged performance oriented car. The DL looks like there arn't many moving parts and looks like a solid, bullet proof design. With the performance to boot, it looks like a good way to go.

A few other things...

Is tire wear accellerated with a DL?

What about handleing in snow?
 
It's always interesting to read posts about detroit lockers on this forum.

I went from a Trac loc to a Detroit locker in my 9" last year. So far I've put about 1500 miles on it.

The "new" locker as it's now called has phenomenal street manners. When unlocked it behaves exactly like an open diff. When or if one wheel breaks loose it immediately locks and you are leaving marks of two.

I can't feel it lock or unlock, nor can I feel any clunking. I use mine mainly for street use with weekend trips to the drags (at least once a month). I'm leaving off a trans brake fairly hard and have had no trouble at all.

The Trac loc didn't last very long and I was told it was not the best choice for my application. The strongest locking diff made is the lenco I was told, but it was not recommended for street use because of it's harsh engagement.

I would call anyone who builds diffs regularly and ask about the new locker, I absolutely love it for my application.

I hope this info helps.

Sean
 
I am not building a luxury car but rather a rugged performance oriented car. ........

........ What about handleing in snow?
This question coupled with the prior statement within the same post seems a bit contradictary. You plan on driving this car in the snow? Will it be your daily driver? If not then why would you be driving it all through the winter time? And BTW, what power level are you at with this car???
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
This question coupled with the prior statement within the same post seems a bit contradictary. You plan on driving this car in the snow? Will it be your daily driver? If not then why would you be driving it all through the winter time? And BTW, what power level are you at with this car???
There is the potential that is will see snow, but I don't plan on extensive driving in snow. We get snow for a few days usually once every other year in december. Sometimes back to back years.

The rig with that may get a detroit locker will split daily driving time with another rig.

About 300hp @ 5000rpm and 400 ftlbs @ 4000rpm on an engine dyno, never tested power at the wheels.
 
No way would I even consider a locker with 400 ft. lbs. What rear end do you have now? My completely stock 1968, 3.31, 12 bolt posi will leave equal length stripes with 10" wide tires and hasn't broken yet. (Has clutches stacked for greatest surface, but slips OK around corners. Has about 35,000 miles on it. I think I've changed the grease 3 times and put new brake cylinders on it once.) Stock posi's can be bad in snow or rainy curves taken too aggressively.
 
No way would I even consider a locker with 400 ft. lbs.
I agree.

Why not?

Ford 8.8
Because you really don't need the extra durability that a Detroit Locker is designed for over and above factory type limited slip posi rears. That is why I asked you what power level you're at. If you said 700+ HP, 700 FT/LBS of torque or maybe even 600+ HP, then I would say sure, you can sure use the extra durability of the Locker. But with only 300 HP on tap, a good Posi unit will handle that for a very long time. Consider buying an Eaton posi unit. They have a good reputation as being pretty durable. If you're still bent on staying away from the posi clutches of a limited slip rear, then go with a Detroit "TRU-Trac" limited slip which is a posi without the posi clutches to wear out.

But personally I see no reason for you to go with a Detroit Locker.
 
It sounds to me like the tru-trac might be perfect for what you're looking for. My brother has one behind a 600hp sbc that also sees 250+hp from nitrous once in a while and survives a few burnout shows each year. It drives great and handles lots of abuse.
 
I have the lock right from powertrax and Impleased with it. Depending out the weight of the car it will change the way it handles the heavier the soomther the lighter the more aggressive.

I have it in my 70 elky and Ive shaved off some weight and the thing is fairly smooth but it still gets jerky if you give it some gas. over all its very easy to handle you just need to learn how it responds.

Size of tires will also change the way it handles wider=aggressive skinny=smoother.

This goes for any tipe of locker mini or full case.
 
I have a Detroit locker and have run them in the past as well. I can tell you that some of the stuff you hear is from people that have never had one. I had one years ago that was a bit noisy, banged and popped on ocassion. The one in my current car is quiet, never pops, bangs, snaps, etc.. not sure what they are doing differently in the newer ones compared to the old one I had, but the noise level and harshness is gone. Turns corners just fine.

Personally I really like lockers and think they are the best for a street /strip car. I have one in my Nova project already as well.

I have also used a Lock-rite locker (powertrax) and it was noisy clicking and popping, but worked fine and never let me down.

With your power level you probably don't "need" a locker, but it will not hurt anything either. Since it's your car you should do what you want with it.

As far as corners go, if you are turning or making a U-turn as long as you are not on the gas, you won't know it's there. Turning radius is not effected. Now if you mash the gas while turning then the car is going to either want to get sideways or push in the turn. If the ground is wet it just magnifies the effect.
 
I have a Detroit locker and have run them in the past as well. I can tell you that some of the stuff you hear is from people that have never had one.
This.

A lot of the info in this thread is misguided.

I believe I mentioned, from personally owned vehicles as of the current moment, I have 8 lockers installed in my cars and 4x4's combined together.

The only, and I repeat only time I ever have noticed "jerking" and "popping" was when I would drive a 4x4 with locker front and rear on the pavement, hence the "jerking" from a locked vehicle turning and the "popping" of the U-Joints in the front axle changing position, and the locker in the front axle unlocking reliving stress on the drive-line with locked front and rear axles, and transfer case.

And obviously you don';t drive a front and rear locked 4x4 on the pavement, this is just an example of what to expect when doing so.

In your car, you'll be fine.
 
FWIW, I've installed 2 of the Lock-Rite from Richmond and both are haedly noticeable driving in ordinary traffic, corners , etc. At first you will notice a but of a racheting ound in turns but you quickly ignore it. Use the 85/140 gear lube as recommended and it is very quiet. As to straight line - it does what it is intended to do.

The cost to install one is very economical compared to a full rear rebuild to install a posi in place of a peg leg. National Gear has good pricing and great service. Buy the new side shims and a new cross pin at the same time to provide for a nice tight install and no issues.
 
It sounds to me like the tru-trac might be perfect for what you're looking for. My brother has one behind a 600hp sbc that also sees 250+hp from nitrous once in a while and survives a few burnout shows each year. It drives great and handles lots of abuse.
:thumbsup: I agree with above. I have the tru-trac and it drives like a stock open diff. Apply torque and it smoothly operates. THere is NO clicking, or racheting. Has been beat on for 4 years, transbrake launches, etc.
Best of 1.36 60ft's with it.
 
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