Pull your bulkhead connector apart and check for green connections or melted wires.

 

Which one is the bulkhead connector? If it’s green is that a corroded wire?

Thanks

 

Under the master cylinder, the firewall feed thru. It is common for the connections to corrode and turn green. Clean them with fine sandpaper or steel wool and coat with dielectric grease. Disconnect the battery 1st.

 

Ill check that out. Much appreciated!

 

I don't have a suggestion for the new module but You would also probably benefit from connecting the vacuum advance and put a stop to limit to about 10 or 12 degrees. It made a huge driveabilty improvement for me having the extra timing for idle and part throttle driving.

 

Thanks Bob. Im pretty happy with how it runs and drives otherwise..I dont believe this issue is a vacuum/timing one at all. If it winds being one ill go back to what you suggest above.

 

On that set up you also need either a resistance wire (like what came factory with points ignition) or an internally ballasted coil.

 

NO, an "internally resisted" coil does not resist the points and condenser in electronic point replacement ignition (drop-in) systems. To properly resist the coil and ignition unit, the resistor has to be in place BEFORE the coil and ignition unit, coil internals only resist from the positive post on the coil into the primary coil windings, not the ignition unit.

 

Sorry you are right Dave. If he doesn't have the resistor wire that was OE he would need a ballast resistor "before" the coil, not an internally resisted coil. I am not sure what the hell I was thinking there.

 

Thanks guys. So the car ran fine for a few months and now it’s having the issue.

If it were something like a required resistor wire would it not have acted that way from the time I installed it?

How would I know I do or don’t have a resistor wire in place or already installed.

Where would I look for it?

Also it seems to act up when the car is hot.. like I could drive it for 20mins and no issues. Once shut off for a few minutes and I come back to it then I would notice the problem.

The bulkhead connector is clean and secure with no signs of corrosion btw.

Thanks
Pat

 

What is the voltage on the positive side of the coil with the ignition on?

 

It’s 12. I actually could tell which side was which so I tried it on both and they were both 12.2-12.1.

So either way that means there is no resistor wire installed correct?

 

Let em check tonight and get back to you..

Thanks for everyone's help on this

 

Sounds like it could be heat effecting the electronics in the module. Did the installation include thermal grease between the module and the distributor? Any chance the module is still under warranty? Trying another module would be a good test, but probably too pricey to experiment...

 

I believe it did have thermal grease. I can clean the old stuff off and add more. I’ve got some from my PC I built if that would work.

Or even try a new module as well.

I too somehow think it’s related to the heat as it’s only an issue when the car has been running, shut off and sits for 15mins or so.. then whe I go back to drive it, and it’s got the issue. It’s also fine at hwy speed and rpm..


So the 12v I’m seeing is correct at the coil?

Thanks

 

You will need to put a ballast resistor on that 12v wire going to the coil. Real easy to do.

 

Is that whats causing the drop out do you believe?

I see from some research that it seems to be the case with these sometimes and it needs a resistor.

So just something like this?

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/corvette/parts/G0881.html?srsltid=AR57-fCZkX5wEeTMiZUqd3gazxrqUhlpMcJReKQ6yk-KtwUbQj323bu99WU

If I go to Petronix and a Petronix coil with a resistor built in will that work? I may be wrong but I though they had an "all in system"

Im probably wrong about this but would that white wire in the picture be the resistance wire that comes from the bulkhead connector?

Apprecaited!

 

lol

 

Something funny?

 

Thanks so much! 👍🏼

 

One thing I noticed is the plate that the module sits on inside the distributor is loose..it seems to move up and..not side to side, more than i think it should.

Im assuming it shouldn't do that and it should be perfectly secure inside the distributor?

Just want to make sure..

Thanks again.

 

If you are not using the vacuum advance then the plate needs to stay in one position so the timing doesn't change or the gap to change. The plate also needs to be grounded which it looks like it is in your picture. Make sure your ground is clean and tight.

 

Thanks. I’ll go through it all. The plate is definitely moving.. not left to right but it does have some up and down play in it.

I was actually considering a petronix distributor and coil and being done with it, especially if it’s a drop in and bolt on and stock appearing.

 

I would try and fix what you have first.

 

Thats the plan.

Thanks for all your help!

Pat

 

Make sure the negative wire between the points and the coil doesn't have broken strands of wire in it from the back and forth movement of the vacuum advance.. Just replace it don't try checking it..

 

Check the RPM Limiter. Mine was off by around 750 RPM.