Just got my motor back ,hot 355, 432hp ,422ftlbs . Muncie wide ratio 4sp, all going in my 64 convertible.
Looking for some help as far as the right clutch kit. Car is for getting ice cream with the kids and burning the tires!!
any suggestions would be great, this is my first project so forgive the ignorance on my part

 

i really like my centerforce DF clutch set-up, had i for years...
do you have a scatter shield and or a billet flywheel for safety??
i would get both as kids like their dads to have both feet intact...

 

Aluminum fly wheel and yeah I can see where keeping the feet would come in handy!

 

Aluminum fly wheel !

For a street car, I wou;d stay away from an aluminum flywheel. Get a steel billet, it will drive much nicer on the street. :yes:

 

Zoom here, absolutely love them still. (Zoom 30000 series)

 

Clutches are like women, everyone has there opinions, I have enough HP and didn't want a real stiff pedal, so I went with a dual clutch setup, but it requires their flywheel.
Just bumping you up, good question, somebody has your setup, should be a lot of opinions.
What gear in the back are you running?

One thing, taking kids to get ice cream and burning out can get messy.

 

the kids were done with the ice cream B-4 we strapped them in.. but the Smell of Burning rubber would make them Gag :yes:

One thing, taking kids to get ice cream and burning out can get messy.[/QUOTE]

 

25-28 lbs steel, non-Chinese preferably (Hayes), which will often need clearancing for the CenterForce hub. CF's have a very soft pedal, and grip well. The only downside is that they do tend to like to chatter. The Zoom and Hays clucthes will also work well for you.

If you have the alum, I suppose, but they are generally made for very low geared race cars.

I have my clutches (and wheels) balanced. They're never balanced properly from the factory it seems.

 

X2 on the centerforce DF!

 

" Car is getting ice cream with kids and burning tires" Sorry, but this makes no sense at all. The driver is "burning tires" and that has more to do with the gas pedal and the foot on it. If you can't drive the car without breaking loose for some mechanical reason, I would park it and have it towed to repair. Having your kids in this car ( a convertible) or it even being on the road and endangering others- doesn't seem very wise.

 

Mike, ignore the Political Correctness of it all. It's just not cricket.

Anywhoo, with that little bit of power, an 11 inch LUK new clutch from just about any parts store for $175 will make it work. I run an 11 inch LUK in my 68 496/M21 car, in deep 10s with it. a McLeod, CenterForce, or Zoom will get you cooler speed stickers, but it won't clamp much more than the LUK.

 

I agree with going with a steel wheel, unless your tq multiplication is in the high 10+ range, the higher the better for the aluminum.

 

I think there's a little misunderstanding here as to what I was saying... I'm not out "endangering" people much less my kids. And I'm not having a "traction" issue. I was just asking what you all would recommend for my set up clutch wise as this is my first go at building a muscle car. As far as getting ice cream and burning the tires I was basically just saying I'm not looking to race this car, I just wanna ride around with the family and once in awhile treat it like a muscle car, nothing more. I am getting some great ideas though and definitely thank you guys!

 

X3 on steel wheel. That's a healthy 355, but you will still like the extra momentum a heavier wheel will maintain. Especially leaving from a stop. Helps the engine maintain rpm as the clutch comes out.


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:yes:

 

Mike, sorry if I came on too strong, when I read your post, I obviously got the wrong take. My apologies.

 

You never stated if you have a 10.5" or 11" bellhousing?

 

Get a price on a Centerforce II also - They are less expensive and would do you fine. I have a Centerforce I behind my big block and it has taken all the street abuse I have given it for 10 years. The Steel flywheel would also be a great addition you can buy it with the clutch.

 

Centerforce DF here in the 69. Love it.

 

If you can afford Centerforce's DYAD, I highly recommend. Wholly crap it's the best clutch I've ever run. Pedal pressure is light like a stock clutch and will hold up to 1200hp. Even comes with it sown dyno sheet. I did a ton of research for my LS set up and I'm soooo glad I picked the DYAD. Bad ass doesn't even begin to describe the experience. But on a low HP application, I'd probably go back to the DF.

 

I am running a hays billet wheel and Hays street clutch disc and pressure plate behind my mild small block. It's got about 2000 street miles on it (with some "aggressive" driving) and one track outing on street tires. Had it out of the car this weekend when swapping engines. Looking at it, you'd swear it only had seen 25 miles of easy driving. Great pedal feel, smooth engagement, and no weight ring to cause problems like centerforce.

I think a good quality "stock" style diaphragm clutch from a reputable manufacturer is all you need for how you plan to use the car.


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No worries Ron, it's a 10.5" bellhousing

 

The CF DF weight ring causes no problem but a little noise. Go with the Gold, which doesnt have the centrifugal weights.

BTW, caution on the CF flywheels, the BBC internal weighed in at 37lbs. They must think we're hotrodding dump trucks. Way too heavy. That 163 tooth will be freshly ground and up for sale soon.

 

I had a CenterForce Dual Friction and hated it. Stiff, noisy, didn't want to disengage when hot. Changed to a "ram Musclecar" clutch, no more problems. I love it.

 

Just a small block street car I'd run a stock 11" clutch from autozone. That's what we put in my dads 67 camino with a 406 back in 1998 and its still works fine.

 

Lots of good clutch suggestions there. One little FYI-don't run a Centerforce with a hydraulic clutch. The weights have a tendency to "grow" at speed & hydraulic release bearings have less clearance than a mechanical setup. That can cause problems with shifting at speed or worse, it can put thrust against the crank bearings.

Tommy

 

I put a Zoom 30006 in my car a couple of years ago, It is advertised for a stock type replacement but more stout than a stock clutch. If you want to light them once in while, this clutch has been working well.

The clutch peddle is just a tad stiffer and does have a bit more resistance then the stock clutch. And the nice thing is it didn't break the bank. It around $200.00.


Rocky