[darkostoj]

i've been looking at headers and the more expensive nicer headers usually don't have the collector flange like the one pictured below. I was just wondering why its done like this and what the advantages are? Also would you just weld up your exhaust to it...slip the rest of it on or what?

 

[Mike]

Race only application ,no need to connect to an exhaust system.
Some come with a longer collector so you can tune the length.

 

[furball8994]

They are for cars that won't use exhaust. Thats why they don't have the flange, Don't need it.

 

[Dave427]

Nice headers , what make are they? Are they the Hedman Hustlers 1 7/8?

Dave

 

[darkostoj]

Nice headers , what make are they? Are they the Hedman Hustlers 1 7/8?

Dave

that would be them. I was debating on going with them on my 700 horse blown small block or the 1 7/8 hooker super comps. I can get a real good deal on the husler headers and I don't really know what to do since my car is almost 100% street

 

[540Hotrod]

No biggee...you can get slip on collectors to clamp to it and hook pipes to it. Or just have end of pipes opened a little to slip over collector. Use a band clamp.


JIM

 

[BillyGman]

you can also get Butt-joint band clamps which are used to join two pipes of the exact same diameter butted-up together without either piece of pipe having to be "Bull-nosed" to slide into the other. Here's a link to what I'm talking about....

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+302014&D=302014

 

[darkostoj]

so do you think these headers would be better than the 1 7/8" hooker super comp's? I've never seen that plate that bolts between the head and the header. Does this make these headers much better than the super comps since they dont come with them?

 

[Dave427]

I was thinkin on a set for my 427 small block,,,how much?? lol . Like above you can use a band clamp around the collector to your head pipe.

Dave

 

[darkostoj]

you can also get Butt-joint band clamps which are used to join two pipes of the exact same diameter butted-up together without either piece of pipe having to be "Bull-nosed" to slide into the other. Here's a link to what I'm talking about....

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+302014&D=302014

thanks for the link, but would a 3.5" exhaust be too big? The collectors are 3.5"

 

[Dave427]

With that plate, I think that they are easier to install also. Those pesky header bolts suck to put in close to the header pipes. You can also port match that plate to your heads.

Dave

 

[LS_5]

I have a set of slip on headers that are band clamped to the rest of the system. 2" primaries/3" collectors and a full 3" system. The one pictured is more a race only deal with nothing behind it, IMO. Got mine from Stainless Works.

We did it for ground clearance and crossmember interference and other system geometry issues caused by the raised exhaust ports on the AFR's. Our '70 is lowered about 2" from stock ride height.

 

[camaroman7d]

You can add flanges which is what most shops do for street cars. They make them in any size you could possibly need. For a header like the one pictures I would guess 3" or 3 1/2"

http://www.pypesexhaust.com/images/hvf-flanges.jpg

 

[BillyGman]

thanks for the link, but would a 3.5" exhaust be too big? The collectors are 3.5"

You can add flanges which is what most shops do for street cars. They make them in any size you could possibly need. For a header like the one pictures I would guess 3" or 3 1/2"

http://www.pypesexhaust.com/images/hvf-flanges.jpg

Many local auto parts stores carry stepped peices of exhaust pipe in various diameters that you can use as reducers, but I think that what camaroman suggested above^ is the best way to go. Get the flanges, have them welded on straight, and then you can use a flange type reducer like these from summit:

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+323801&D=323801

and...

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+311418&D=311418