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I have been trying to run AC 41-629 (new number for FR3LS)

I have had at least 5 of them that were bad right out of the box or went bad within short order and still looked like new.

Had a miss last weekend at the track, changed out to a new set, miss got even worse to the point I couldn't stay into it the whole way down. Changed wires, cap, carb, coil, everything to try and find it, and again it was one of this new set of plugs I installed. Put in some Champions as a last ditch effort, and ran like a top.

I will NEVER run one of these AC plugs again. I noticed they are Hecho en Mexico, must not have good QC on them down there....

Just a tip.
 
Davey,

Your engine runs on pump gas, right? Just curious why you're running such a cold plug? I ran AR3924s in all my pump gas stuff.
Ken that's the plug AFR suggests, it's a non-resistor compared to the 392x plugs I believe. The motor is a 10 to 1 motor but I do play with different fuels. The plugs have always run pretty clean and looking at the thread discoloration seem to be about right for heat range (about 2-3 threads). Also from what I've read the 393x plugs run in 1/2 step increments so the 32's are 1 step colder then a 34.....

plus....too many Ferds run those 24's.....:D
 
Ken that's the plug AFR suggests, it's a non-resistor compared to the 392x plugs I believe. The motor is a 10 to 1 motor but I do play with different fuels. The plugs have always run pretty clean and looking at the thread discoloration seem to be about right for heat range (about 2-3 threads). Also from what I've read the 393x plugs run in 1/2 step increments so the 32's are 1 step colder then a 34.....

plus....too many Ferds run those 24's.....:D
Thanks for the info, Davey :) I never pay attention to the threads. I look down into the bottom of the element with a lighted magnifying glass and look where the timing mark is at on the ground strap. I know on the 392x plugs each increment is ~100 degrees going from memory (which ain't always a good thing for me :) ).
 
yes I use the ground strap for timing too. I'm memory challenged myself so I just believe everything I read on the internet...;)
 
i have used many different plugs for different aplications..had a 350 with just under 12:1 and it liked hot plugs better than the colder ones,,i ran a champion Rj12yc in that one..they reved the most and lasted longest. the autolights in the replacement were the worst of the bunch,,

But in other aplications the autolights were fine.
Whatever plug i use in my performance stuff i like to cut the ground strap back..i will try to load a pic..this is a standard ACR45ts
As for yours start a step above the coldest and work your way up..I have never liked the coldest plug of the bunch..your results may varry.

You can cut the strap back all the way to the edge if you like..some i have done that way..I think this exposes the flame kernel a tad more..

Any power gain you ask? ..Dont know but i sleep better knowing it aint stock:D This plug is old and in the scrap bin. many 10,000's of miles and cleaned with a wire wheel
Image
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/sparkplug411_manufacturer.asp?manufacturerID=2

This is what Champion calls the "J" gap. A popular plug with point ignitions had the designation "UJ" which was a cut back side electrode with an extra gap, about .020", inside the insulator to raise firing voltage. They worked quite well. Years ago, the Champion rep hung around the bike shop, but I haven't seen him in years.
 
Davey,

Your engine runs on pump gas, right? Just curious why you're running such a cold plug? I ran AR3924s in all my pump gas stuff.
x2, same plugs in mine since I built 3 yrs ago. AR3924's.
 
Bob are you using 5's or 6's ?
BRK5E11?
I'm using what Chad is using :thumbsup:

I use R5671A-7 in my 460 with Brodix RR-O heads at 10.5:1. They recommend a -8 plug for an engine using race fuel and -7 for pump gas. -8 was too cold for my combo and I believe it was the BKR6E that I tried and they were too hot. The -7 racing plug is just right.
 
I have tried the R5671A-7 the plug I was using when I blew the head gasket this spring. So I moved to the -9 with the Alky. When I converted back to the E85 I tried the -8 and it looked just a little too lean to me but I am no expert at reading plugs so I put the -9's back on to be safe. That is what I have been running lately but they look just like they are a little too dark after a run. Hmmm...Eric68 said he likes the AR3933 for our compression on E85 so I bought a set today and set the gap at .028. Hopefully, this plug will be right. Like Davey said they go in half step increments.
 
i'm running ac delco r44lts, not sure if this is a good plug or not.

engine guy, where do you buy the illumination tool? i'm trying to learn how to read plugs. i have a 10x magnifier and i can't see the base of the porcelin. from what i've read you can look there for mixture or the base ring. so i've just been looking at the base ring.

ChevJ,

I have had my inspection tool for many years and it was supplied by Champion Spark Plug Co. Don't know if Champion still sells them, as things have really changed over there. The tool should be available through Jegs, Summit or your local auto parts store.
 
As much as I hate to say it being a diehard Chevy guy, I've always used Autolite AR series plugs in my hot rods :) They are easy to read and the ground strap is cut back, too. FWIW...

Ken,

It is OK to admit that you are using Autolite plugs . . . . Even though Autolite was originally a spin-off of Motorcraft, it is now a division of Honeywell. I figure that since Honeywell is a major supplier in the aerospace industry, manufacturing parts for the space shuttle and Boeing aircraft, their product quality should be pretty good. I have never had a problem with their products and I think the are still manufactured in the USA!
 
ChevJ,

I have had my inspection tool for many years and it was supplied by Champion Spark Plug Co. Don't know if Champion still sells them, as things have really changed over there. The tool should be available through Jegs, Summit or your local auto parts store.
Thanks eg, i'll look around.
 
Ken,

It is OK to admit that you are using Autolite plugs . . . . Even though Autolite was originally a spin-off of Motorcraft, it is now a division of Honeywell. I figure that since Honeywell is a major supplier in the aerospace industry, manufacturing parts for the space shuttle and Boeing aircraft, their product quality should be pretty good. I have never had a problem with their products and I think the are still manufactured in the USA!
nope...my AR3932's are made in Mexico...but that's almost the USA now...;)
 
nope...my AR3932's are made in Mexico...but that's almost the USA now...;)
There's an Autolite plant 15 miles from my house in Fostoria, Ohio. Don't know what part numbers that they make though.
 
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