[Spadepro22]

Hazards work...New relays for blinkers and hazards....Fuses are good, all other lights work as they should(besides passenger side marker bulb 194) ....Blinkers don't. What to check next and where does the 12v come from to the pink/purple plug for the blinker relay?

 

[blm]

If you have changed both flashers, which I assume you are referring to the flashers as "relays" and fuses are good then next most likely candidate would be the switch inside the steering column.
Hazards working means all wiring, grounds, bulbs, fuses are good.

 

[Spadepro22]

Thanks....And yes flashers/relays both has been changed. I swap them around and the hazards still work so I know the relays are good.

 

[Jim Streib]

Since we do not know what year you have, I wonder if the power to the turn signal flasher (pink wire) is on a fuse and maybe tied into the same fuse for the reverse light like on some 70's GM vehicles ?.

If that were the case, then if the fuse was blown or there were issues with the fuse clips then the turn signal flasher as well as the reverse lights would not be getting power.

JIm

 

[Spadepro22]

Sorry its a 71

 

[69SS454]

What exactly happens when you turn on a signal flasher? Do the lights turn on but not flash or not turn on at all? What does the dash indicator do? Left and right do exactly the same?

 

[Spadepro22]

What exactly happens when you turn on a signal flasher? Do the lights turn on but not flash or not turn on at all? What does the dash indicator do? Left and right do exactly the same?

Nothing at all...No blinking, no solid lights, nothing on the dash....Its almost like I've lost voltage. I've tested the wires before and had 12v....I need to recheck to see if it is in fact a voltage issue. I cant remember if the pink or purple wire has the voltage.

 

[Jim Streib]

Nothing at all...No blinking, no solid lights, nothing on the dash....Its almost like I've lost voltage. I've tested the wires before and had 12v....I need to recheck to see if it is in fact a voltage issue. I cant remember if the pink or purple wire has the voltage.

Normally a "standard" flasher would show 12V on each terminal if plugged in. When the actual turn signals would be activated, and the ignition was in the run position, the front and rear signal bulbs would then be creating an amperage draw which then the flasher senses and then due to it's design would open up a set of contacts in the flasher and stop the flow of power to the turn signal lights and then after a short break, the flashers contact would then close back up and then again, the lights would come back on. Once closed again, the lights would be drawing power and then the flashers contacts would open back up once again. This cycle repeats itself over and over again until the ignition is turned off and/or the signal switch is turned off. Think of the old school flashers as being something like an automatically resetting circuit breaker.

The old school "standard" flasher was designed for so many lights and a particular amperage draw and would flash on and off so many times per minute. Add more bulbs and the flasher would click on and off quicker and then if not enough lights were attached, the flasher may never break the connection to flash th lights.

Today, you have LED lights and specialized flasher and they have to play together nicely with each other or things do not work as they should.

Jim

 

[Spadepro22]

Ign(pink wire) runs to this switch....The metal spade connector beside the fuse has 12v when I unplug it. When I plug it back in it puts 12v on the pink wire and blinks will work. After driving for a few the blinks stop again and the voltage is gone. It stays gone until I unplug from metal terminal...I say a short but wouldn't the voltage stay gone?

 

[Jim Streib]

Ign(pink wire) runs to this switch....The metal spade connector beside the fuse has 12v when I unplug it. When I plug it back in it puts 12v on the pink wire and blinks will work. After driving for a few the blinks stop again and the voltage is gone. It stays gone until I unplug from metal terminal...I say a short but wouldn't the voltage stay gone?

I would be looking at corroded and/or poor connection(s).

Looking at connections will not tell you hardly anything, Clip in some test wires to a meter and go for a drive. The results should give you some direction as to what way to go.

If you has a short to ground either a fuse would blow and/or there would be some wire insulation melting.

Jim

 

[LevonH]

See if there's anything here to help you out

 

[Coppertop]

Ign(pink wire) runs to this switch....The metal spade connector beside the fuse has 12v when I unplug it. When I plug it back in it puts 12v on the pink wire and blinks will work. After driving for a few the blinks stop again and the voltage is gone. It stays gone until I unplug from metal terminal...I say a short but wouldn't the voltage stay gone?

Ign(pink wire) runs to this switch....The metal spade connector beside the fuse has 12v when I unplug it. When I plug it back in it puts 12v on the pink wire and blinks will work. After driving for a few the blinks stop again and the voltage is gone. It stays gone until I unplug from metal terminal...I say a short but wouldn't the voltage stay gone?

You've got some non-factory stuff going on there.

That brake lamp swtch is NOT factory. That switch is an aftermarket replacement for cars that have cruise control. The brake light connection is white/orange. That blue/pink is either for cruise control or some sort of other pet project that was added on.

 

[Spadepro22]

You've got some non-factory stuff going on there.

That brake lamp swtch is NOT factory. That switch is an aftermarket replacement for cars that have cruise control. The brake light connection is white/orange. That blue/pink is either for cruise control or some sort of other pet project that was added on.

Its LS swapped....That cruise control switch is feeding 12v to the torque converter.

 

[Coppertop]

Ok then....

So have you removed the turnsignal flasher from the 2-wire connector (which is pink/purple), turned the key "ON" and then taken a voltmeter or test light to see if you have power on the pink wire connection?

 

[Spadepro22]

Ok then....

So have you removed the turnsignal flasher from the 2-wire connector (which is pink/purple), turned the key "ON" and then taken a voltmeter or test light to see if you have power on the pink wire connection?

I have....The voltage is there and the flashers will work for a bit....Then they'll stop working and I'll recheck and the voltage is gone. I check at the terminal on the ign terminal and the voltage is gone, then I can unplug the pink wire recheck and voltage is back. Flashers work then stop again....Something causing the voltage to come and go. I'm starting to wonder they wired something in with the torque converter because they connect and disconnect 12v to lock and unlock it. I don't know enough about converters to be sure tho.

 

[Coppertop]

The pink wire is apart of the switched ignition power buss circuitry. The 25 amp fuse feeds (or fed before things got modified) the back-up lamps, the turn signals, and I believe, the heater on non-AC cars.

Check the simple stuff first, is the connector damaged or the internal connectors corroded in any way? (the connector that physically plugs into the flasher can).

Is the turn signal fuse good? Sometime fuses can go intermittently open even if they "look" good. Are the fuse holder clips in the fuse block free of corrosion?

 

[Spadepro22]

The pink wire is apart of the switched ignition power buss circuitry. The 25 amp fuse feeds (or fed before things got modified) the back-up lamps, the turn signals, and I believe, the heater on non-AC cars.

Check the simple stuff first, is the connector damaged or the internal connectors corroded in any way? (the connector that physically plugs into the flasher can).

Is the turn signal fuse good? Sometime fuses can go intermittently open even if they "look" good. Are the fuse holder clips in the fuse block free of corrosion?

The flasher plug looks good and clean....I put a new female end on the pink wire that plugs on the male terminal on the fuse box. I ohmed the fuse, but I can change it anyways just to be sure its not making a intermittent connection like you stated. I can't see any corrosion at the fuse block, all appears to be in good shape. Do you know if the metal ring thing that secures the brake swtich in place grounds it? It was loose and I tighten it down(it not be just wondering).

 

[Coppertop]

Yeah, you have to be careful with ohm readings. Your meter only uses a very tiny amount of current. It may read ZERO ohms and seem perfect, but that is not a real world test when amps are drawn thru the fuse element.

There is no grounding at the brake lamp switch. The contacts inside open and close to provide +12 volts in and out and are completely isolated from ground otherwise you'd have a short circuit.

 

[Spadepro22]

Yeah, you have to be careful with ohm readings. Your meter only uses a very tiny amount of current. It may read ZERO ohms and seem perfect, but that is not a real world test when amps are drawn thru the fuse element.

There is no grounding at the brake lamp switch. The contacts inside open and close to provide +12 volts in and out and are completely isolated from ground otherwise you'd have a short circuit.

Ok, thanks....I'll change the fuse 2morr and see what happens....I'll report back if nothing changes.

 

[Spadepro22]

Had a chance to check again once they stopped working. 12v on one side 0 on the other side.. Hopefully problem solved!! Thanks guys