[66 283]

I have that finger control too - it ain't bad but it takes some practice. I often put the pedal between my knees like a thighmaster if I am out of position. And my 88 amps was for .083" chromoly for tubing joint.

 

[Renegade1958]

Thanks re: the welding. I haven't really practiced that much, the biggest #1 thing was to get a better helmet and a #9 shade and get my head really close because i have ****ty vision and you can't weld what you can't see.

66 283: They make cheaters for the hoods. Check it out! Sure makes it easier on us semi-blind folks..LOL!

 

[66 283]

renegade, tried one of those - I'm not that old LOL but I have a hard time seeing. I took out the cheater because I found you needed to be the fight focal distance - worked great on the bench but when I can't quite get my head in the right position it made me dizzy. (more than usual LOL)

 

[Wolfplace]

renegade, tried one of those - I'm not that old LOL but I have a hard time seeing. I took out the cheater because I found you needed to be the fight focal distance - worked great on the bench but when I can't quite get my head in the right position it made me dizzy. (more than usual LOL)

=
Ryan,
If you don't wear glasses try a pair of like 1X or 1.5X reading ones. I like them better then the magnifier in the helmet.
If you wear bifocals get you optometrist to make you a pair that are only the close-up lenses.
I had the Lasik deal done about 3 years ago but still need "reading" glasses
Getting older sucks

 

[66 283]

It's been a while since an update so here it is:

Car is rolling, a few small bars to add here and there for support and strength but the SFI requirements are covered.

Next - turbo headers - and a new paintjob. Ordering the tranny and converter asap.

 

[wanarace]

Looking good!!!

 

[Harold Sutton]

It's been a while since an update so here it is:

Car is rolling, a few small bars to add here and there for support and strength but the SFI requirements are covered.

Next - turbo headers - and a new paintjob. Ordering the tranny and converter asap.

The cage is looking better and better. Your welding looks pretty darned good for a first time effort and painting the tubing has really made it pretty, real good job. The car is progressing nicely. Good luck with the motor and driveline. It also appears you've moved the tires inboard which is a really good idea.

 

[69 Ratt Vette]

Awesome, what a killer car

 

[66rat]

Looking good Ryan, the car is going to be killer. What tranny did you decide on?

Rob

 

[505Nova]

Looks great Ryan, you've got a lot done this winter! I see you deceided to go with the ET Streets, or at least start out with those.

 

[66 283]

I was considering bruno/lenco but I decided to try a glide first because I want to keep my stock floor/tunnel/firewall and I want to use my original console and shifter...

Not going to say who I'm using because that was a contentious issue on here and I don't want to be misquoted or the topic of gossip again. I'll send you a pm.

 

[66 283]

Moved the tires inward? Do you mean from the previous photo? I didn't move them in. They fit as tight to the quarters as I could make them. There is no wishbone in there yet so the rear end is not centered in the car. I had a friend turn down the brake hats about 1/4" each side because they were much thicker than they told me when I ordered them.

Thanks on the welding - practice makes perfect - and I have been practicing on stainless lately so the turbo headers should be a breeze. I only wish I had more time - some weeks I only get 5 or 6 hours in on the car. Family and work have to come first...

 

[BRIANS68CHEV.]

man that is an awesome job u are doing on the cage. I was wondering, what are u using to keep from burning the material (headliner, etc.) in the car? or did u just take it out. I am fixing to put a 8 or 10 pt in my 68. Thanks brian

 

[66 283]

Brian,

Does this answer your question?

You have to mock up the cage on 1/8" plates on the frame, then once you get it fitting and tacked you break the tacks on the plates, slide the cage a few inches back, then drop the cage through holes in the frame (don't make them too tight because it will move a bit when you weld it). Then after it is welded and painted, lift it back into position and weld the plates to the frame and the cage to the plates.

If your frame is like mine there is NO WAY to take the cage out unless you want a really crappy fit. Mine fits so tight against the headliner that I couldn't get masking paper between the bars and the headliner ANYWHERE so had to paint part of it in the lowered position before lifting it back up. It is important to have it ultra tight to the roof because if you try for SFI 25.5 you need minimum 1" of room above your helmet before the bottom of the roof bars or you will have to lower the seat or sit on the floor LOL. I wanted to use factory buckets so it was very critical. And I still might have to shorten the factory seat brackets 1/2"...

 

[BRIANS68CHEV.]

sweet, I would have never thought of doing it that way. Thanks alot.

 

[66rat]

Now if that ain't slicker than a snotted door knob, I don't know what is. You engineering types got it figured out. I'd be up there all twisted and contorted out of shape, shoving cardboard between the headliner and cage, cussing like a sailor trying to get-er-done. I'll have to remember that little trick.

Rob

 

[66 283]

I was still twisted and contorted LOL because in some spots I couldn't fit my head (with welding helmet) between the cage and roof. Next time I do one I'm going to get a head sock and some #9 lens goggles for those really painful positions... you can always weld 3/4 of the tube easy but that last 1/4 is almost impossible to get both your hands and eyes close enough! LOL

 

[66 283]

some new pics:

 

[Wolfplace]

Them damn pistons ain't gonna work,,, that got no quench,,,,

Very nice,, :beers:

 

[69 Ratt Vette]

Oh, that is killer !!!!!