Wiggle the key every which way you can and see what happens. I assume this key used to work? Probably just has gotten too worn down to work properly. If by any slim chance the key is the original and they never knocked out the plug from the hole where the keyring goes, that little plug will have the lock cylinder code and you can have a locksmith cut you a new key from that code. Then, once you get it open, you probably want to have that cylinder updated with new tumblers or buy a whole new lock/key combination.

 

may have to pull the rear seat to unlatch it from behind.

 

Thx for response.

I've wiggled it quite a bit, no luck, and afraid it'll break off if i stress it too much. Key did used to work and don't have original key with code on it.

 

Spray some WD-40 into the lock and then try it. :thumbsup:

 

I use powdered graphite for locks.

 

I use a lubricant called Tri-Flow. It has teflon in it and it works very well. Just hold the key slot open with the key, then spray a small amount in the lock.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Superior-Lubricant-Aerosol-Can-4-Oz-TRI-FLOW-TF20009/19868594

 

There's a great product locksmiths use called Tri Flow works like magic. Had my door locks out took them to a locksmith to have them re keyed, luckily I had the key numbers so he made me new keys, drivers side worked great passenger side didn't, he pulled a small can of tri flow from under the counter and sprayed it instantly it worked perfect. Bought a can from him 8.95 for a small can but we'll worth it, when I got home the trunk lock didn't work one shot and it was perfect. WD 40 may work if not in too bad of shape it worked on my drivers side but not the passengers. Never use WD 40 and graphite together you will make mud use one or the other according to the locksmith. Locksmith said passenger side is frozen more often due to lack of use.

 

well...wd40 and tri-flow didn't help. Worth the effort but now what do I do?

Can i take the whole mechanism out, or drive it to a locksmith, etc.?

Thanks again for any help.

 

Try bottoming out the key and then back it off a smidge and then try turning it.

 

just pull the seat, long screw driver pop clip push lock out done

 

lol, love how succinct this is!

 

Try pushing the trunk lid down as you turn the key.

 

I don't know if roadster601 was referring to removing the clip and then pushing the lock out while the trunk is closed but you can't get at the clip unless the trunk is open. I don't know if you can even get your body into the trunk there are no big cutouts to crawl thru.

 

the clip depending how its mounted in his trunk, a bar screw driver anything long with a hook i made my own can catch it pull it out, i meant when trunk is closed.... and yes there is access maybe not your whole bodymaybe when iwas16 to get thru but something, i think when i was in a dealer what ya gonna do drill only as a last resort. so there ya go

 

The last classic car I owned had a similar problem, it was a 1963 Beaumont Acaidian SD. I had to drill out the lock, go slow very easy to do. A 3/8” bit just chewed right through it, no other damage, to any sheet metal. Popped what was left of the lock, purchased a new one and done deal

 

I had this happen on my Chevelle. Tried all the tricks but no luck. The lock mechanism failed. Drilled out the center and replaced the lock.

 

yes your right, some cars the screw was left out by former owners, but never said to crawl in the trunk. if all fails drill out the cylinder as i did say

 

Just an update on this effort. Got the old lock out with drill and other tools, not easy. Bought new lock and key but putting that in is not easy either. There is a long piece that goes with the new cylinder that goes into the slot of the locking mechanism that doesn't seem to fit and I can't figure out how to get cylinder thru the clip and have it line up properly. The old long piece must have fallen in the gap between the deck lid metal because I can't find it to see how to bend the new piece. Ugh.

I can tell you this, there is NO WAY I could have popped the lock out thru the back seat because the clip that holds it in is inside the gap between the two pieces of metal that make up the lid.

Watched Chris Craft from YouTube who did this and the cylinder and long piece he had was bent pretty severly. Haven't figured out how to bend it the right way. Plus my clip that holds the locking cylinder won't come out for me to work on it. Ugh again.

Anyway, just musing.

 

I had a hard time getting that clip out too and the new one didn't go back in any easier either. If I remember correctly I had to push the clip forward get something on it real good maybe channel locks and yank it out. Putting it back in I ended up using a small mallet to seat it all the way in. Just watch your paint.