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Timing problem with the brand new design MSD Digital 6AL box

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45K views 40 replies 22 participants last post by  malibu356  
#1 · (Edited)
Patient: zz502 with an MSD 8360 "ready to run" billet distributor with adjustable vacuum advance. Timing set at 18 initial, 36 total, coming all in at 2800rpm. MSD Blaster SS coil. GM Performance spark plug wires and plugs that came with crate motor.

Initial Condition: The motor was running great with this set up.

The Change: I have to pass emissions, and thought the multiple hit spark from an MSD ignition box might help at idle. I also wanted an easy to use, accurate rev limiter. So I got one of the new design MSD Digital 6AL ignition boxes. EDIT: This isn't the flat finned anodized aluminum Digital 6, it's the brand new minimal extra features unit that looks like the classic 6 box. The bell/whistle on it is a rev limiter (no start retart, etc).

The distributor has a weatherpack connector on it with power, spark signal, and ground pins. I wanted to make the system redundant, so interfaced the new 6AL box's wires with a weatherpack plug, too. That way, if the ignition box ever failed, I could disconnect it from the distributor, and plug in the original harness and be on my way running with just the distributor. I have the wires correlated exactly. I use the orange wire from the distributor to the white signal wire of the box. EDIT: I am not using the mag pick up with the purple/turquoise wires.

The Problem: The motor started right up, but was running really rough at idle and lower RPM. It sounded like a timing issue. I put my light on, and found at at idle, it was at 6 degrees. It was a 18 before I addd the box. I didn't even brush my hand by the distributor or spark plug wires, all I did was screw the box to the fender and plug it in.

So I changed physically moved the distributor to give me 18. Ah better. BUT, I revved the motor slowly, and at about 2500, it the timing flipped out and jumped up to about 50, bouncing around there. Lowering back to idle, it settled in at a steady 18 again. Yes, I had disconnected the vacuum advance line to be checking this. EDIT: I am using an Actron basic timing light, it's not digital and doesn't have dial back function. This light worked fine with the mulitple spark discharge old Digital 6 light I used to have with my other motor.

First Course of Action: I was totally stumped, so I called MSD. The first guy I talked to didn't have a clue. The second guy I talked to told me to put dielectric grease on the plug wires. I told him I had greased the wires when I put the distributor in, and it was running fine before I added the box, and didn't touch the wires during the process. He said to do it anyway. That was his answer. Sorrry, but that's "duh" response.

Questions: 1. Have you guys ever heard of this happening? 2. With a multiple spark ignition, with a degree range of firing, the strobe on the timing edge fires just once on the leading edge of the spark right? Just checking, I had one of the big red anodized Digital 6 ignitions on my old motor, and timing it looked normal. 3. Who is your favorite tech to try to get ahold of at MSD?

The good thing: I wired it redundantly so I could switch back to the distributor if the box gave me problems. Looks like I will be doing that while I sort this out :)
 
#2 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

You have to check timing above 3000 rpm. You could fire the light on the leading edge of the first spark at one point and at another spark later on.


This is all pretty well documented. Search this site of google, you could read for hours.
 
#3 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

I do my final sets at above 3000 rpm, at 36 degrees, and it will fall in at 18 idle (using 18 degree bushing). I only test-set it this time while idling because it was immediately convenient to trouble shoot. I did check this new configuration above 3000 rpm, that's where it was really bouncing around between 40 to 60 degrees. Not steady at all. If I drop it to be 36, assuming it will steady out enough to read, it will put the idle at ATDC. That's the problem , how I am getting such a huge spread in timing (again, no vacuum attached), and why is it so erratic at higher RPM ???
 
#5 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

It's wired just like the diagram on page 11 in this pdf instruction guide only I have a Blaster SS. Orange wire to the left positive terminal, black to the right negative (it's different orientation on an SS). There are only a few connect points, it's pretty easy to mess up. Oh, yeah, the MSD guy said to wire the ground directly to the battery. Both the pos and neg were already directly on the battery terminals.
 
#6 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

What timing light are you using? Not all lights are compatible with the MSD boxes. I've experienced that first hand with my last timing light. If the timing light you are using is not MSD compatible, it will show some real crazy timing readings, all of which will be false readings. For example, my last timing light read 270 degrees of timing while the engine was running just fine! I went to the summit racing website, and bought a timing light that summit listed as being "MSD compatible" and without touching the distributor at all, took another timing reading with the new light, and it was right were it was supposed to be (15 degrees advanced, and NOT 270 degrees like the other light was reading). So look on the MSD website, and/or onn your MSD instructions, and you should find a list of the timing lights as well as tachometers that are MSD compatible.

If you don't find a compatibility list, then you can also go on the summit racing website, and in the search box type in your exact brand and model timing light, and look at the overview list where it says "MSD compatible" and see if it says "yes" or "no". If you're not using a light that is compatible, that is likely suspect as the culprit. You'll go nuts trying to figure this out if your light isn't compatible and you disregard what I'm telling you.
 
#7 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

Interest on timing lights. It's the same Actron CP7507 (that doesn't have a turn back dial feature) that I used with my other Digital 6 (big flat anodized red aluminum model). And the one I've been using with my MSD ready to run.

I will check that, but again, I am wondering about the box because with just switching to it, the car wouldn't idle until I raised it up to a steady indicated 18 degrees.
 
#8 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

as Billy said some lights react weird with the digital 6 box...is your start retard on or off?....idling I think it will retard 20 degrees below 800rpm if it's on....
 
#9 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

Wow, nice analytical thinking on the start retard! That's why I post my dumb questions, everyone is smart here. In this case, though, it's the brand, brand new 6425 Digital 6AL, it looks like the classic MSD boxes and doesn't have all the bells and whistles the of the "other" fflat finned anodized Digital 6 like I used to have. So, this one doesn't have a start retard. But thanks for trying!
 
#10 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

Gibbons....the main wire from the box that you plug into the distributor....it looks as though you "should" plug the two purple wires together. You don't though. The car will still run but will do funny things with the timing. I found this out the hard way. Had some circle guys tell me about this problem. It will plug in both ways. You need to plug the box and distributor together so the two "purple" wires are NOT CONNECTED to each other.

Bet this fixes the problem.
 
#11 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

okay Gibs, it was just a thought, made that mistake with the wife's Monte...
 
#12 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

On page one of my MSD instructions it says

Note: Do not use digital or dial back timing lights.

Does it say that on the instructions for your unit?
 
#13 ·
Re: Timing problem with new model MSD Digital 6AL box

My timing light is just a good old fashioned one, not digital or dial back. I wish it was that problem!

There are two ways to hook up to the new Digital 6AL. It has a purple/turqoise twisted pair that interfaces to a distributor magnetic paddle wheel pickup OR it has a white wire input to interfaces to the output of a "ready to run" distributor. My purple/turqoise wires are just taped off. I am using the the white wire, that way I could retain the guts of the distributor for a redundant ignition system. I never thought I would be using that redundant feature first thing!
 
#14 ·
I think they have something wrong with their digital technology. I had a digital 6 that did the same thing. Drove me crazy. Their techs were of no help. I did find the problem. It was their box. I switched to different brand problem solved. Their old boxes are way better than the digital. Their are many guys who are having no problems with the old boxes. Not so with the new.
 
#16 ·
It's the new Digital 6. You pick the number of cylinders by clipping loops in the harness. for a V8, don't clip any. That seems dumb to me, I would have it the other way, clip the loops for the most common application to get them out of the way.

The only adjustments on this new unit are the rev limiter, one dial for 1000's, one for 100's.
 
#18 ·
i dont get why the box retarded your idle timing if there is no crank retard that could be kicking in???

seems like that indicates a problem in and of itself since the distributor wasn't turned??

am i missing something??
 
#19 ·
Im running the same box with a MSD billet dist.

Im having no problems at all. In fact the rev limiter is working perfect and Im able to use a dial back light set on 0 and read the balancer just like a standard light. If I try the dial back feature on my light the timing jumps all around and gives a higher reading. I did test my light against a non dial back light and with mine set on 0 reading the balancer there was no difference.
 
#20 ·
aren't you an engineer?

go back to your original post here:

"The Problem: The motor started right up, but was running really rough at idle and lower RPM. It sounded like a timing issue. I put my light on, and found at at idle, it was at 6 degrees. It was a 18 before I addd the box. I didn't even brush my hand by the distributor or spark plug wires, all I did was screw the box to the fender and plug it in. "

Stop right there. You made a change, it made the engine significantly worse. So, you started jacking around with other stuff trying to fix it. You're kidding, right? If you make a change and things get worse, stop, immediately back out the un-successful change you just made and get it back where it was. Then and only then start thinking about what might have gone wrong. Back out all the changes you made trying to fix the first one.

I don't believe you could graduate from any reasonable engineering school without learning this or some variation of it.
 
#21 ·
Tom-You crack me up sometimes man....you are about as tactful as a ..... but your right. My car was running fine. I set the valve lash and it ran like sh!t so I re set it the next day. It was too tight. Car runs just like it did before. Keep it simple.
 
#22 ·
Some of us have paid hard prices to learn this stuff. Real hard, like losing a season long points lead in a very competitive division.

Besides, that was my evil twin, Terrible Tom, that posted so tactfully there. I'm Tom Terrific. I never do anything stupid or mean. :)
 
#25 ·
Gibbs, I think that you can analytically say that with out a doubt, you have come to the conclusion that something is fudged up.:thumbsup:
 
#26 ·
Gibs everything I can find on the Actron light says it is not multi-spark compatible....
 
#27 ·
Thanks for checking Davey. From past experience, I know the light worked with my multi spark other ignition. And I can hear a change in how the motor sounds right when it jumps 10 degrees at 2500 rpm, and how it won't idle if I swap the weatherpack back and forth. Rats! I hate stuff like this.

So what's a good cheap light that will work? I would be really chapped if I bought another light, and it was a goofed box after all. I don't have any friends to borrow one from, they think I am weird to change my tire pressure myself.
 
#28 ·
The box will not work. It jumps it an additonal 10 degrees. Now when that happens and your jumping on it at 6,000 rpms, boom! You blow a head gasket. That is what happened on my MSD 6Al. Get a different box.
 
#29 ·
Time to R&R those friends for some cool ones with hi-perf engine knowledge, lots of good tools, and cool cars. Those country club guys are useless.

Exchange the box for another. It sounds messed up to me. MSD boxes either work great or not at all in my experience. There's not a lot of science involved hooking one up. It sounds like you followed the basic instructions and it's not working. If you try another and it still doesn't work, I'd be tempted to blame your installation. Right now, since the engine works fine with the box disconnected, I'm inclined to blame the box.

No gearhead friends? Not one? Something is wrong with that.
 
#30 ·
Ok my FIRST thought was right in line with Rick (Calculated Risk) but I also remember that you leaned this thing out to pass emissions,maybe the extra 'blasts of sparks have leaned it out more? try re-setting the idle mixture screws......If I missed that you have already done this then disregard.