So I had a leak at the seal on the steering box. Decided to yank it off to repair it. Power steering car. Hoses are off, pitman arm is off. the splined clamp behind ragjoint is loose. 2 of the 3 bolts that mount the steering box to the frame came out. The lower rear most one snapped off at the head of the bolt. So now I cannot drop the box down to pull it away from the rag joint. I tried to pry it away from the frame slightly to get a sawzall blade in there to cut the bolt off, but its tight against the frame. Won't budge. Suggestions on the best way to get it out of there now?
JIM
Did it snap off flush? I’d probably try to get some penetrant where the bolt threads into the frame. Then are you able to get a drill bit in where it snapped off. If so drill into the snapped off bolt and then insert an ez out into the drilled hole. Snap on makes some good ez outs. Squirt the portion of the bolt going into the frame a few times. Maybe for a day or so to allow it to get down in the threads. Definately change all those bolts with new and clean out the threads in the frame well before putting new bolts in.
Might need a little air drill and some shorty drill bits.
Might need a little air drill and some shorty drill bits.
The bolt passes through the frame and threads into the steering box. It snapped off right at the head of the bolt on the outer frame side. So there is a 4” long stud now still attached the the steering box passing through the width of the frame. Here is a couple pics. From the outside of the frame, it’s that lower right bolt.
From the steering box side, you can see the threaded section protruding.
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From the steering box side, you can see the threaded section protruding.
Pretty sure it’s just bound in the frame.
Some constant hammering, doesn’t need to be damaging, should let it release so your can cut behind box.
Two small hammers in unison often works magic.
Good Luck
Some constant hammering, doesn’t need to be damaging, should let it release so your can cut behind box.
Two small hammers in unison often works magic.
Good Luck
I tried a pry bar between the box and the frame. That was my idea, to move it enoungh to get my sawz-all in there and cut the bolt. It won't budge. I think you are correct, the bolt shank is frozen to that sleeve in the frame. I'll spray the heck out of it with PB Blaster for a day or so and then smack it a couple of times.
Worst case loosen the steering column and pull it up enough to get the rag joint loose. Once that's loose from the box maybe you can slide the box toward the engine enough to get it to clear the frame. You'll need to spray some penetrating oil (i.e. kroil, rusty nut buster, etc) on the broken off bolt to get it to free from the frame. A propane torch on the bolt head side might help too.
I just soaked that bolt/sleeve area with PB Blaster. Gonna let it sit at least overnight.
Good idea with pulling the steering column up slightly as well. If I can get that part off the the steering box it may be easer to remove. I have never yanked the column before so I do not know how tight that sucker may be on there as well.
Good idea with pulling the steering column up slightly as well. If I can get that part off the the steering box it may be easer to remove. I have never yanked the column before so I do not know how tight that sucker may be on there as well.
Can you double nut the threads and put some heat on the ear and back it out or thread a nut on and weld the end break it loose back it out then cut the nut off 🤷♂️
Jim, even if you manage to cut the pump out with a sawzall, you'll likely still have rusted pieces of the broken bolts still stuck inside the threaded pump housing ear(s) and unless you're scapping out the pump, you'll then still be faced with having to remove them. Hands down the BEST shot you have of removing those broken bolts is to use a 1/4" Left Handed Drill bit. Do NOT use a punch and hammer. Those are threaded holes in the power steering pump housing, and a hammer and punch will strip the threads or crack the ears of the housing. It's a threaded bolt that passes through a threaded hole. So you're not going to get it to turn by hitting it with a punch. It isn't like you need to drive a dowel pin out of a hole. It has to be TURNED out of the hole because the hole is THREADED ALSO. 
Here's what I would do: Get a small set of LEFT hand drill bits, ( see below) and you MUST have a reversable drill motor. With the front tire and wheel off of the car, you have enough room in the wheel well for a hand drill motor with a left hand drill bit on it. Pick a drill bit size as large as possible withOUT it being in danger of hitting the frame nor the ear of the pump housing. Take into account that the drill bit is going to walk off center slightly when you begin drilling the bolt. You only want the drill bit to make contact with the remains of the broken bolt, and NOT with the frame nor with the pump housing ear. If you have a variable speed drill which is also reversable, make sure you're drilling counter clockwise, (which is exactly what a left hand drill bit is for). And dial in a lower speed if you can.
It might help if you have a prick punch, (AKA center punch) with a point on the end, to hammer a starting point in the bolt that's as centered as you can place it to keep the "walking" action of the drill bit to a minimum. But don't use a drill bit that's too small either because a bit too small won't give you enough torque on the bolt. You want the remains of the bolt threads to be lubricated, (which they already are since you've had it soaking over night, but you do NOT want to lubricate the drill bit, so do not put anymore oil of any kind on it. You want the drill bit to grab onto the bolt as you're a drilling a left hand hole in the bolt itself, (ie. a COUNTER CLOCKWISE ROTATION). Try your best to drill straight and don't hit the threads on the housing.
As you continue to drill a hole in the bolt itself, ( FROM the wheel well side of the bolt!!) the bolt itself should begin to back out, turning counter clockwise with the turn of the drill bit. Continue to drill the hole into the bolt deeper, and as you do, the bolt should continue to turn right out of the threaded hole of the pump housing ear. You probably should oil up the bolt that didn't break, and thread it back into the other hole and tighten it before you begin drilling the broken bolt, because that will help ease the weight of the housing off of the broken bolt, allowing it to turn easier, and also prevent the pump from falling on the floor once the broken bolt comes out. Those bolts are 7/16"-14 thread, so I would choose a 1/4" size left handed drill bit. You won't have to drill a hole through the whole piece of what's left of the bolt. The bolt should back right out of the hole way before that happens
OEMTOOLS 25771 Five-Piece Left Handed Titanium Bit Set - Mechanics Length Drill Bits - Amazon.com
if one of the broken bolts you have to remove still goes all the way though the pump housing ear, and the bolt has paint on the threads, then before you begin drill it from the other side, you should clean and wire brush the paint off the threads after spraying it with brake cleaner and then lube up the threads from the opposite side of the hole that you'll be drilling from.
Here's what I would do: Get a small set of LEFT hand drill bits, ( see below) and you MUST have a reversable drill motor. With the front tire and wheel off of the car, you have enough room in the wheel well for a hand drill motor with a left hand drill bit on it. Pick a drill bit size as large as possible withOUT it being in danger of hitting the frame nor the ear of the pump housing. Take into account that the drill bit is going to walk off center slightly when you begin drilling the bolt. You only want the drill bit to make contact with the remains of the broken bolt, and NOT with the frame nor with the pump housing ear. If you have a variable speed drill which is also reversable, make sure you're drilling counter clockwise, (which is exactly what a left hand drill bit is for). And dial in a lower speed if you can.
It might help if you have a prick punch, (AKA center punch) with a point on the end, to hammer a starting point in the bolt that's as centered as you can place it to keep the "walking" action of the drill bit to a minimum. But don't use a drill bit that's too small either because a bit too small won't give you enough torque on the bolt. You want the remains of the bolt threads to be lubricated, (which they already are since you've had it soaking over night, but you do NOT want to lubricate the drill bit, so do not put anymore oil of any kind on it. You want the drill bit to grab onto the bolt as you're a drilling a left hand hole in the bolt itself, (ie. a COUNTER CLOCKWISE ROTATION). Try your best to drill straight and don't hit the threads on the housing.
As you continue to drill a hole in the bolt itself, ( FROM the wheel well side of the bolt!!) the bolt itself should begin to back out, turning counter clockwise with the turn of the drill bit. Continue to drill the hole into the bolt deeper, and as you do, the bolt should continue to turn right out of the threaded hole of the pump housing ear. You probably should oil up the bolt that didn't break, and thread it back into the other hole and tighten it before you begin drilling the broken bolt, because that will help ease the weight of the housing off of the broken bolt, allowing it to turn easier, and also prevent the pump from falling on the floor once the broken bolt comes out. Those bolts are 7/16"-14 thread, so I would choose a 1/4" size left handed drill bit. You won't have to drill a hole through the whole piece of what's left of the bolt. The bolt should back right out of the hole way before that happens
OEMTOOLS 25771 Five-Piece Left Handed Titanium Bit Set - Mechanics Length Drill Bits - Amazon.com
if one of the broken bolts you have to remove still goes all the way though the pump housing ear, and the bolt has paint on the threads, then before you begin drill it from the other side, you should clean and wire brush the paint off the threads after spraying it with brake cleaner and then lube up the threads from the opposite side of the hole that you'll be drilling from.
Billy, The idea of hitting it is not to free the bolt from the ear of the gear box, it is to free the seized shaft of the bolt from the sleeve in the frame. My issue is that the shaft is completely rusted and stuck to the sleeve inside of the frame. Not that the threads are stuck in the gear box. This section of the bolt has no threads. If I smack the shaft of the broken bolt, the entire gear box should move away from the frame and then come out.
At that point I'd have the bolt still threaded into the gear box that I would then extract. Then I could use a left hand drill if that bolt does not want to back out. I think it will unthread easily though. Its not rusted at the threads. Its kind of greasy and oily there. Most likely from years of power steering fluid leaking on it.
At that point I'd have the bolt still threaded into the gear box that I would then extract. Then I could use a left hand drill if that bolt does not want to back out. I think it will unthread easily though. Its not rusted at the threads. Its kind of greasy and oily there. Most likely from years of power steering fluid leaking on it.
I agree with many of the other posters, the problem is the bolt is rusted to the sleeve in the frame and that's why the head broke off rather than it breaking near the box. If you do end up sawing off the bolt just make sure you have enough to get some vice grips or can weld a nut on the remaining portion of the bolt shaft. It looks like there's enough oil on the box around the bolt so it should come right out of the box. If you have a brass punch the size of the bolt that would be best and hit it hard. The brass punch will help keep the head of the bolt from mushrooming. You can use a punch or drift but like others have said use a good sized hammer and hit it hard. The less smacks the better.
On sliding up the column, there should be the bolts that hold the column bracket to the dash and then a slip ring bolt on the firewall. With those loose the column should slide up.
On sliding up the column, there should be the bolts that hold the column bracket to the dash and then a slip ring bolt on the firewall. With those loose the column should slide up.
One time at a car cruise, I saw a 1969 Chevelle with with the two front sections of the frame filled with spray foam. The owner said it really changed the overall handling and feel of the car. He thinks it removed at least 50% of the flex the frame use to have.
The seal leaking is the input seal, not the lower one at the pitman arm.
I have to get the column detached first.
it’s fighting me.
it’s dropped from under the dash, the plate at the firewall is unbolted, splined clamp that is forward of the rag joint is loose but won’t budge.
the 2 nuts at the rag joint flange are also removed. It just won’t separate from the gear box. I must be overlooking something.
I have to get the column detached first.
it’s fighting me.
it’s dropped from under the dash, the plate at the firewall is unbolted, splined clamp that is forward of the rag joint is loose but won’t budge.
the 2 nuts at the rag joint flange are also removed. It just won’t separate from the gear box. I must be overlooking something.
Mount a nut to the frame with a magnet and weld the nut to the broken bolt. Fill the entire nut with your weld. The heat will loosen the bolt in its rusted sleeve and you can wrench the bolt out using the welded nut.
I don’t have a welder. Wish I did.
but…, torch, BFH and 30 minutes of pounding, pulling, prying and twisting. He she is in all of her busted bolt glory..,
![Image]()
but…, torch, BFH and 30 minutes of pounding, pulling, prying and twisting. He she is in all of her busted bolt glory..,
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