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Discussion starter · #22 ·
well even if i was able to get somehow 60hp that would only be 200hp and i am really looking for more like 300hp.

What kind of gas milage will the 327 get???
 
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Sounds like you already made up your mind. Make sure the block isn't cracked. One thing for sure, it will be a good learning experience no matter what happens. I think you'll need the machine shop to check and test the block to determine how much more overbore it can take. If you do a search you'll find others have said they've gone .030 over and as much as .060 over, but I wouldn't assume anything until that block gets cleaned, hot tanked and inspected at the machine shop.

You can look up Chevy V-8 block casting numbers online for free at www.mortec.com or get the book "Catalog of Chevy V-8 Engine Casting Numbers 1955-93."

If you don't already have any reference material for doing the rebuild, go get "How to Rebuild your Small-Block Chevy" by David Vizard.

Good luck.
 
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
i just went to Napa to pick up some parts and they also have a machine shop. They said it would be $200 to bore and hone a 327. Does that sound like a correct price??

I read a book saying you can go to 60over but i think it said that they dont reccomend going above 30 over.

I also was trying to find hp ratings for the casting numbers and came up with what you found on about 40% of my searches. The other sites said 4 bolt main used in Vettes and other high preformance cars. But no site that said this gave an hp rating.
 
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Does that $200 include cleaning the block & cam bearings? doubt it
 
i just went to Napa to pick up some parts and they also have a machine shop. They said it would be $200 to bore and hone a 327. Does that sound like a correct price??

I read a book saying you can go to 60over but i think it said that they dont reccomend going above 30 over.

I also was trying to find hp ratings for the casting numbers and came up with what you found on about 40% of my searches. The other sites said 4 bolt main used in Vettes and other high preformance cars. But no site that said this gave an hp ratings.
Call around a few other machine shops to find out what it costs. Comparison shop.

Don't worry about the factory hp and torque rating. You're completely rebuilding it anyway. You can change the heads, cam, carb, intake and stuff if you want more speed and power.
 
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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Thanks JYags for your help. Im gonna call the guy up again tonight and see if i can get some numbers and then i think im gonna tell him i will buy it. Thanks everyone for all your help. Anything to look for that may be an expensive fix besides cracks?
 
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
alright the guy pulled it out of the truck today. He said the motor turned freely when he pushed on the fan. He also gave me a number from the engine but i dont know what it means. CAn anyone decifer it? Thanks. It is VO62OYS not sure if the o's are o's or zero's.
 
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Ryan;

I should have wrote more. You don't need to specifically find a LT1 but I would seriously consider a newer engine as a starting point. Possibly find a Vortec engine and convert it to carb use or you can convert a LT1 to carb use. Even a roller cam block Tuned Port engine is a good starting point - pull the intake and make a lot of the buying price back selling the fuel injection off if you don't want it. The GM roller cammed blocks get you a reliable hydraulic roller engine fairly cheap and a hydraulic roller cam works about the best for a cruising engine, especially if you're talking 300hp. At least until you're planning a engine that will spin over around 6k or 6.5k rpm's then you get into solid cam territory. You can find decent cams and other valvetrain parts cheap used from the F-body crowd.

The newer GM heads are another bonus. If you're planning on getting the 327 and using the old heads and engine as is you're really starting at a disadvantage compared to a roller cammed and L98 or Vortec headed engine. There simply are no GM small block heads from that time that work as well as the newer GM or latest aftermarket heads.

I picked up a 94 Firebird and stuck the LT1 I had planned for the Beaumont in it for something to drive in the summer. The engine isn't radical or anything but it just plain works. It pulls hard from around 1500rpm to 5600rpm or so. It's basically stock with some head port cleaning up and a GM hot cam kit. I would expect it to get even better with good intake ducting and especially headers. I've messed around with some different combos on my older 350 with 461 heads and have spent more time and probably the same amount of money playing with it but I've yet to get it to run like this LT1 which I just stuck together and put the pedal down on.

Of course, if you have to have a 327 then you might as well just go for it. You haven't really said what combo you're looking at so maybe you're planning new heads or other goodies.

Peter
 
just saw a vortec 350 long block rebuilder for 300.00 on another board from nj, or ny. ( don't know where your located) imo a much better score than a 327. i would think you could have a easy little 350 hp motor outta a deal like that for about 1200 - 1400.00 total
 
If it turns over it may not need to be bored out. If that is the case and the pistons are good you will save big $$ on machine work. Then you can run out and buy a nice aftermarket intake and cam instead.

P.S. Quit thinking about it and just go get the damn thing already. You know you want it. You know you won't be happy until you have it. I know the feeling- same thing happens to me when I find 283s. Even if they never get overhauled, it is still a joy to have the parts scattered all over.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
i know and love the feeling of having parts all over. I for the past 5 years have been working on dirtbikes and restoring them. This is were i learned most of my handywork. I love taking apart stuff and making it better. I am going to take the drive tommorow at 9am and pick up the engine along with anyother parts i can salvage.
 
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