[crankitup]

I have the right stuff rear drum to disc conversion on my "69 Chevelle. The brakes have not felt right to me ever since I put the rear discs on. I like the feel of the brakes on my '72 Chevelle which has manual four wheel disc brakes. So I converted my '69 to manual brakes also by removing the power booster. Brakes still didn't feel any better after converting to manual. Come to find out, the rear disc where not working at all. Tried bleed the rear disc and found very little fluid pressure at the bleeders. Then found that the rubber brake hose that goes over the rear differential was bad. Replaced the rubber house and then had good pressure at the bleeders. After all that, still had no rear brakes. So I got in touch with a technician at Right Stuff. He put me through a fairly long procedure of draining the brake fluid from the rear calipers, removing the E brake system from the calipers, removing the e-brake arm from the calipers, adjusting the nut behind the e-brake arm, then removing the inside pad and removing some material from the pad on each rear caliper. When done I reinstall everything and bleed the system again. I still have no rear brakes. I'm not sure what to try next. It appears that I have good pressure at the rear bleeders. I still have no breaks what-so-ever through the rear hydraulic system. However the manual e-brake works great! I was wondering if anybody has any ideas. I've been at this for 5 months now. I have had other problems with the Right Stuff rear disc conversation, but I will not go into all of that now. I would just really like to get this system to work and not wast more money by buying another brand.
Thanks

 

[Jack Action]

It appears that I have good pressure at the rear bleeders. I still have no breaks what-so-ever through the rear hydraulic system.

What do you mean by that? Do you mean your caliper pistons don't move? Or do they move but with not enough pressure to lock the wheels?

 

[zombie1969]

Did you verify the master can also be used in a manual application. They have different bore sizes. Also did you locate the push rod in the upper hole on the break pedal.

 

[pnugene]

Also did you insure you have the calipers on the correct sides? I know it's a silly question, but I managed to install calipers on the wrong side with bleeders on the bottom which kept air trapped in the caliper......hence no brakes.

 

[crankitup]

Also did you insure you have the calipers on the correct sides? I know it's a silly question, but I managed to install calipers on the wrong side with bleeders on the bottom which kept air trapped in the caliper......hence no brakes.

Yes, bleeders are on the top.

 

[crankitup]

What do you mean by that? Do you mean your caliper pistons don't move? Or do they move but with not enough pressure to lock the wheels?

The system seems to have good hydraulic pressure when bleeding. But with brake pedal depressed I can turn the wheels with ease. I don't think the piston is moving, but I will have to check that.

 

[crankitup]

Did you verify the master can also be used in a manual application. They have different bore sizes. Also did you locate the push rod in the upper hole on the break pedal.

Yes, I moved the push rod to the upper hole. AS it turns out, the rear brakes were not working before I removed the booster.

 

[shovelrick]

I bought a 4 whl kit complete SS lines front to rear and it came with the wrong P valve, called and asked if it was the right one and was sent another WRONG one, finally I bought a wildwood adjustable and it seems better but I haven't had the car out due to engine changes, heads, but the peddle feels a lot better, I'm using a complete MBM kit minus rear calipers (autozone D52's) and the new Pvalve, hope this info helps, rick.

 

[Tom Mobley]

Trey, your front disc may be interfering with bleeding the rears. Requires a helper but try this: helper applies brakes, you open front bleeder, then rear bleeder. when the pedal goes to the floor helper holds it there while you close both bleeders. If the front brakes are tightening up (like they should be), they'll stop the pedal travel before much of anything happens on the rear. A few rounds of this routine may make the difference.

I usually gravity bleed both ends of the car before starting on the pedal bleeding.

The idio .... helpful phone person at Wrong Stuff has no idea. Point is, those calipers need to be adjusted by using using the park brake regularly. The rear pads need to be up against the rotors like the front. The park brake lever is on a racheting deal sort of screws the piston in. You can sometimes work the lever by hand too, if there's clearance between the pads and the rotor.

 

[shovelrick]

I also ordered drilled & slotted rotors, got 1 left, 3 right side...twice, but they finally got it right, lol.

 

[Tom Mobley]

Wrong Stuff not necessarily better than Inline Boob....

 

[70CHEVELLE396]

Not sure if I missed it, but what prop valve are you using? Perhaps that's where the problem is? I have all Right Stuff disc conversion parts front and back. I didn't use the e brake calipers, but I have had zero problems. This past winter after replacing all my flex lines, and front calipers I borrowed a friends vacuum bleeder, one that uses compressed air. That thing pulls a ton of fluid, and made bleeding the system a snap.

 

[TKG]

Those calipers are a pia to bleed. The mc just doesn't have enough volume to make the caliper piston go to full stroke.
I used compresses air to move the piston all the way, then applied the hand brake. Then bleed it normally.

 

[Tom Mobley]

Again, you have to got thru the routine with the park brake adjusters.

you can't expect to be able to bled the rears if the fronts are keeping the MC from pumping fluid back there. See post #9 for one way to work around it.

If you don't use the levers to adjust the pads up to the rotors you'll be flogging that thing forever.

 

[crankitup]

I wanted to give a follow up on my rear brake issue. It turned out to be the Master Cylinder. I replaced it 8-10 years ago with a rebuilt.This time I put a new one in it. Brakes work great now. Thank you all for your impute.