[Philip]

The entire job cost $8000. I was lucky I already had my Ricks Stainless Steel Sump Tank, it solved a lot of problems.

That is a lot of money to just replace a carburetor :surprise:

 

[Tom Mobley]

$8K? Wow, are you using polished SS everything? Or what? I'll read your threads.

 

[69-CHVL]

$4k for the multiport on the 502. Runs phenomenally but wish that sniper system was around at the time. I think it would of done 95% of what I need to do for a fraction of the price. Enough left over to buy a OD trans lol.

 

[jackie schmidt]

$8K? Wow, are you using polished SS everything? Or what? I'll read your threads.

I went back and corrected that. The total bill, including chassis dyno time, came to $5600.

That included the small cap DUI distributor. A full size HEI will not fit between fuel rails.

 

[MikeMalibu]

I intalled the MSD Atomic TBI on my 350 SBC about 6 months after it was introduced several years ago. Controls fuel & timing. Easy install. Runs great. I loaded firmware updates a few times. Big improvement in timing control and throttle response over prior setup with carb. Turn the key and roll.

 

[1967 chevelle malibu]

Do any of the EFI systems have a detonation sensor that can back off timing if pinging is heard?

 

[T_R]

Do any of the EFI systems have a detonation sensor that can back off timing if pinging is heard?

The cheap ones like FiTech and Sniper don't. There may be some high end stuff that does.

You can add knock control to just about anything with an add on box like the J&S safegaurd or I think MSD might have something too. Problem is a lot of these old BBC and SBC engines are noisy unlike newer engines that have knock sensors. Big P to W clearance etc. False knock can be a big problem.

 

[jackie schmidt]

Do any of the EFI systems have a detonation sensor that can back off timing if pinging is heard?

The high end HP Multiport Systems such as is on my 540 do. However, you have to have the Fuel Injection ECU set up to controle the engines timing. This requires a Dual Sync Distributor and. Ignition box, such as a MSD 6A.

Mine is not set up to control timing. I use a standard DUI vacuum advance Distributor with the curve set for my engines characteristics.

 

[Dr_Grip]

Do any of the EFI systems have a detonation sensor that can back off timing if pinging is heard?

I tried to get a knock sensor to work back in my homebrew GM EFI days. The problem is that the sensor has to be calibrated to the engine type it works on because it will register other noises as -false- knock otherwise.

With my Ford, the considerably louder timing gear compared to an SBC meant the GM-calibrated knock sensor was useless, registering more knock the higher I revved the engine. But other modifications that generate noise like larger cams and flat tappet lifters might register as knock as well.

So my suggestion would be not to count on a knock sensor, but rather book some dyno time: Knock is lost power, so the second you advance timing too much, it'll show on the dyno sheet.

 

[Smbinnp]

I have been using the FiTech MeanStreet since late 2016 and have been very pleased with it.
I drive the car almost every day since I live in So Cal and the weather allows that.
I could go on for hours about how well it works.... YES the phone support is marginal at best but for me the product is solid.
I am a member of multiple forums and “most” of the symptoms can be associated to three things.
1: Someone with too big an ego to admit the motor had problems initially
2: someone that does not understand the influence of voltage drops (grounds) on electronics
3: someone not willing to do research on proper tuning even with a carburetor

Overcome that and your golden.
Those same issues will bite you with any add-on EFI.
I run a roller 496 with 10.2CR. The cam is .540/.560 and 294/300 duration and I run 91 octane pump gas.
On a chassi dyno (rear wheel) it developed 460hp and 470ft/lb torque. She was at 300ft/lb by 2500rpm and was still above 400ft/lb at 5900.
Not monster numbers but it is crazy broad power curve and it was the EFI that helped.
Many won’t believe this but that beast delivers over 15mpg highway since I can cruise at 2300rpm in 5th (TKO600).
The EFI has never given me a problem that I did not introduce.
Hell... you can make adjustments on the fly.
Http://Facebook.com/bbccamaro if your interested to check out the car.

 

[cv67]

re the sniper, can it handle a ton of overlap?
from tank to startup approximate cost if you did it yourself?

 

[Schwany]

re the sniper, can it handle a ton of overlap?
from tank to startup approximate cost if you did it yourself?

Looks like the Sniper guys are going to leave you hanging. I don't know anything about the Sniper, but I would guess vacuum below 4Hg could be problematic.

Cost really depends on what you decide to update or fix during the process of installing everything. I'm not a good candidate for total cost, because I don't add stuff up. I don't go overboard either, but will buy more parts than I need. With a Tanks Inc., or Holley tank/in-tank pump and basic 2-wire distributor that supports timing control, I would pencil in $2000 to cover taxes (if buying anything local) and any small fittings or wiring upgrades you might want to make. It could easily cost more if you buy a Holley dual sync distributor, upgrade the pump, and do stainless braided lines through out on top of making other necessary upgrades.

Don't plan on doing it in 4 hours like on TV or uTube, unless you have 3 clones of yourself stashed in your garage. :wink2:

 

[rel3rd]

Looks like the Sniper guys are going to leave you hanging. I don't know anything about the Sniper, but I would guess vacuum below 4Hg could be problematic.

Cost really depends on what you decide to update or fix during the process of installing everything.

Those darn Sniper guys... 0

re the sniper, can it handle a ton of overlap?
from tank to startup approximate cost if you did it yourself?

Like Schwany says, cost is directly related to what type setup you want, and/or end up with.

If you have a new-ish tank, you can now buy a EFI pump setup that will fit your stock tank, very reasonably priced.

If you go with a new TanksInc setup, that's $500+ right there, but has pump, tank, sending unit, straps, etc...

Some have no issue with stock tank, and external pump...

Add in the lines, clamps, fittings, etc...to your new, complete EFI tank setup...
Plus the actual Sniper setup, and all the miscellaneous crap, yep, you're just under the 2 grand neighborhood

If I ever do another Sniper, it will be an EFI Fueling only setup, and will use the proven dialed in MSD distributor for spark. I did see a smoother idle with the dual sync distributor, but can't say it was worth all the aggravation, and money to see very minimal positive results. Yeah, it was nice to be able to change your advance curve and all timing settings without opening the hood, but looking back, my setup was well dialed in, and I should have just left it alone, and used the fuel controlling only...

I had over 80 degrees of overlap on a 107 degree LSA and car idled fine, with or without the timing control used.

That was with the Fitech AND the Sniper...both idled and acted fine with the cam choice.

 

[Schwany]

I agree with Bob... timing control is a bit overrated unless you are going to run some form of power adder that needs to back off timing so it doesn't blow up, and you want to control it through the ECU and not some other way. I thought it was cool setting timing control up and playing with it, but in the end I have the timing set up about like it was without it. Anywho, yep you could save a good chunk of change not changing your distributor.

 

[.183953]

I guess I never came back to update this.
I went with an edelbrock set up.
Thing is running like a champ and couldn't be happier. It will run an 11.3 in the quarter while having issues(which have since been figured out).

 

[joesweeting]

I had to send my Sniper EFI back to Holley twice due to issues with the ECU.