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Discussion starter · #1 ·
As I have been waiting to install mine(I'm in Alaska at the moment) I have been reading and searching though efi posts, but there isn't one topic where it was just a user experience with efi. So here it is:

Post up your system with part number if possible(brand and type--tbi or mpfi)
Post up your experience installing it and any issues you had to resolve
Post up your review--
Ideas for your review
-did you enjoy it or is it no different than having a carb?
-would you do the swap again?
-was it worth the extra cost?
-notice any benefits?
 
As I have been waiting to install mine(I'm in Alaska at the moment) I have been reading and searching though efi posts, but there isn't one topic where it was just a user experience with efi. So here it is:
Post up your system with part number if possible(brand and type--tbi or mpfi)
FiTech EFI-8 1200 hp
Post up your experience installing it and any issues you had to resolve
Install was relatively easy, went full return style with in-tank fuel pump

Post up your review--
Ideas for your review
-did you enjoy it or is it no different than having a carb?
It's not much different than my carb (750 3310 VS)
-would you do the swap again?
would not go with a FiTech, their customer service is insanely bad. I would go Holley or spend the big bucks and go MPFI.
-was it worth the extra cost?
So far not yet
-notice any benefits?
Cold starts are 100x better. Cruising is a little smoother. Maybe slightly less fuel smell. Power about the same, have been a good 2 mpg WORSE mileage so
 
Installed an L29 7.4L with factory fuel injection. It was good until a cam change caused cold start and idle to not work properly. The fix was to replace the truck ECM with and LS1 style ECM so idle settings could be dialed in.

Not sure anyone is completely happy with any of the aftermarket EFI set ups from what I have read. Little issues that will drive a person crazy trying to sort out.

IMO it is a pie that a lot of manufacturers want a piece of and they are rushing to market systems that could use a little more fine tuning. Again just my opinion we all have one.
 
MY opinions posted below, which are well documented on this site, so no need to debate anybody about any of it...

Had Fitech GoEFI4 on my car for 10 months...used strictly for fueling only

7 and half of those was fighting with Fitech to get 2 of their warrantied items replaced (Fuel Command Center, Handheld)
The throttle body itself worked fine, no complaints, as it EQUALLED my best ever carburetor ET/MPH and started easier, ran smoother...
The Fitech technical support and customer service, when you can get in touch with them, sucks and is very inconsistent...
Rather than go into details, I suggest searching my user name and Fitech...and plan to spend several hours reading...

Have had the Holley Sniper on my car for 7 months or so...used for fueling and timing, presently.

Again, zero issues with throttle body, but had MANY issues trying to run Timing Control with an MSD distributor.
Use a Holley Dual Sync distributor now, and it works great!
Performance EASILY topped the best that the Fitech (or any carb) could provide.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-.../89-efi/932170-holley-sniper-vs-fitech-throttle-body-efi-dragstrip-results.html

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Here are HOLLEY specific issues that I have personally experienced...

- Wideband oxygen sensor suddenly went bad, on a restart. (Holley immediately sent me a new one, no questions asked)
- Coolant Temperature Sensor read wrong after a month or 2. (Bought one locally, since it was only 10 bucks)
- Throttle Position Sensor very erratic idle rpm/TPS %, after a hot antifreeze shower underhood... (Holley immediately sent me a new one, and the tech gave me his direct number to call and update him as to if this fixed it or not)
- MSD Timing Control No matter what, the timing control when using the MSD, was screwy...I did NOT use an adjustable rotor, as that made the car unable to be driven. It ran GREAT with a regular rotor, but started very hard...actually ruining THREE different starters...

Since these issues...
- Wideband has worked great, and matches my existing wideband, mounted on the opposite side header
- Coolant Temp Sensor is very close to my Autometer gauge reading
- Throttle Position Sensor seems to be fine
- Bit the bullet and bought a Holley Dual Sync distributor, and car starts, runs, and does everything else...just fine.

Regrets? Yes, two of them...

- Using, or should I say, TRYING to use the Fitech Fuel Command Center. I'd never consider anything but a TanksInc EFI tank setup after what I dealt with...
- Using, or should I say, TRYING to use the MSD distributor, with Holley Sniper Timing Control function....It simply does NOT work correctly in a real world scenario....ie; DRIVING on the road....It may work on an engine dyno, or a test run stand, but under the hood, driving the car....NO. Waste of time and energy...

Would I do it again? Absolutely...

My car starts easy, runs & idles smoother, pulls/revs easier & smoother, it's MUCH easier to make ANY tuning (or even experimental) changes. Between runs I literally sit and watch everyone around me work on their cars... :thumbsup:

I was quoted $900+ for a custom carb for my car, and my stock tank (as I found later) had a small hold in the top of it, and needed replacement anyway...

So, figure $1200 for a new carb, and a new tank...

If you don't even include the Fitech efi, the Quick Fuel carb, the 2 Holley carbs, the mechanical fuel pump and related parts that I sold off, I still only have $1700 into the Sniper EFI/TanksInc tank/fuel lines, fittings, etc...I can't really count the $400 distributor, as that was a CHOICE, after the fact...so a $500 expense, MORE than I was going to spend for a carb and gas tank anyway. Factor in all the sold items, and I am actually even money for a change, so this was truly a No-Brainer...IMHO...

I'll NEVER choose to use a carb on one of my cars, ever again...
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Nice write up! I've been following you and a lot of others as they went to fitech or holley. Glad to see it all worked out. Hoping my edelbrock set up won't pose any problems like hard starting or sensor issues.
 
I run a Megasquirt II (on 3.0 PCB) with the Extra code in my '70 small-block powered car. I'm running MPFI with a Holley Stealthram intake . I also have a Tanks Inc EFI tank w/255lph pump for my fuel system. It's definitely more complicated than the most recent offerings, but I've had it a long time, and there is plenty of support available on their forums, including from the actual developers. That's a big plus to me.

I've been using the Megasquirt since 2005 on my Chevelle. I had some non-running years in there due to mechanical issues, but when I started my project, there weren't any other budget-friendly options for tuneable EFI. (the older GM factory stuff is garbage, too difficult to tune real-time, IMO)

I like it.. a lot. Is it perfect? No. It's definitely more complicated. But I'll never change it back to a carb. EFI can be adjusted in ways that a carb just can't match, and you can make those changes in a real-time. The MS also controls the timing, which allows things that a regular distributor just can't do. Once you get used to this level of control, you'll always look at carbs/non computer-controlled distributors as limiting devices.

Would I do it again? Yep. I'm planning on converting one of my other SBC's over to EFI. Probably a Megasquirt since I have one and it's familiar to me, but maybe a Holley unit, as they seem pretty well-reviewed.

Was it worth the cost? For me, yeah. It's been very educational and fun. I won't lie, at other times, very frustrating. I pieced my system together, so I didn't have one-time big-spend outlay. But with Snipers going for $1000, I can't imagine spending $400-500 on a new carb. YMMV.

With all of that said, I took a 200 mile round trip a couple weeks back from Cleveland to Erie, PA. Mostly 2-lane state highways. I recorded a legit 18mpg and the car ran flawlessly. I get in and drive it. I have real doubts you're going to achieve that on a carb'd car that can run mid-low 12s as mine does. No doubt, a large part of that is due to the 700R4 trans. But being able to run the engine efficiently at AFRs of 15-16:1, with plenty of timing helps.

EFI is like any other aspect of your car -- it takes time to get it right. I like not having to spill gas on my intake or my hands to make an adjustment. I like being able to take datalogs and see where the problems are. But I also work in IT for a living, so laptops, serial/USB interfaces, looking at log files, flashing firmware, etc. are just another day at the office.

-Dave
 
Hey, nice to see someone else from Alaska on here!
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Hey! Where are you at up here? I'm down in Homer - - sadly moving back to CA due to being laid off. Decided to go back to school and work there for a couple years to be a little better financially.

Keep the experiences with efi coming! It sounds mostly like sensor issues but once it's set up it's extremely hard to beat.
 
I worked as a GM elecrtical & driveability tech for 40 years. Loved the EFI systems. The first one was a TBI on a 350 engine in a 1941 Chevy. Ran great. Used a Tahoe fuel pump assy. in the stock tank.

The next one was a TPI on a 350 engine & a 700R4 trans in a 1932 Ford roadster. These systems were assembled with used & scrounged parts as there was very little money new parts. Had the roadster for a few years until a friend made a offer I couldn't resist.

My last one was a 1949 Cadillac coupe with a 500 cid cad engine. This car had aftermarket suspension, rack & pinion power steering A/C etc. I used a TBI system on that one that came on a 1989 454 big block in a pick up truck. Had fuel pump in tank as the others had. Had to put a fuel pump with higher PSI & an adjustable regulator , raised fuel pressure to 18 psi from 13 psi to compensate for the extra cubes. They all ran good.

I'm reading all I can find on the TBI systems now available. This forum is a great place to find real world results, thanks. I will step up to EFI one day soon.
 
Afternoon, I may be one of the first who grabbed a Fitech in Canada, Back in August 2015. It's on my 1965 Plymouth Valiant with a warm 318. and yes, with a perfectly fine running Fuel command center. ( sorry Rel3rd) Go efi 4 power adder.

I have in my pre-efi days, taken part and changed jets /idle bleeds etc repeatedly on a single day, only to view the ever anal wideband guage and wonder if I could ever get it just right.. Go back to Carb ?? NOPE.

Had my own issues with my O2 Sensor, wound up voiding my warranty by trying to "fix it Myself" (bad expensive move), struggled with getting a mopar distributor to work properly to use the delightful timing control, a fair share of idle smoothing "tinkering", and some O2 sensor wire electrical interference.

Well now that I have the proper MSD Style distributor, have eliminated the o2 pre warming sensor issue with new software, have added vacuum lines to both FCC and TB Fuel regulators to keep pressure down at idle and high vacuum situations, and turned down the fuel pump at idle, it just runs dam good!.

Starts right up, even when it's winter time, goes right into gear without stalling. Responsive as ever. Smooth always. Cruises at 15.1 to 1, hit the gas and it's straight to 12.6. Pulls hard and strong for a small motor. Timing changes as the system needs, I can tinker with accel pump, timing, afr's , without getting covered with gas, opening my toolbox or getting out of the drivers seat for that matter. I don't have to worry that my mixtures are off.. EVER.

The biggest drawback for me right now, is that I used to spend my sparetime "getting things better" , but no need, so I'm spending more time relaxing, building a deck, and dare I say it, planting a flower or two. LOL

Thanks to everyone who has provided all sorts of information on here.. you know who you are.. to figure out the little things that make each of our installations successful.

Ken
 
Hey! Where are you at up here? I'm down in Homer - - sadly moving back to CA due to being laid off. Decided to go back to school and work there for a couple years to be a little better financially.

Keep the experiences with efi coming! It sounds mostly like sensor issues but once it's set up it's extremely hard to beat.

I'm down up in the Valley, about an hour or so north of Anchorage. That sucks, hopefully it works better for you down there!


As far as my system goes -


Post up your system with part number if possible(brand and type--tbi or mpfi) Holley Sniper EFI (TBI)

Post up your experience installing it and any issues you had to resolve - Install itself went pretty smoothly. The wiring could have been designed better, as the cables are stiff and difficult to route, and the connectors could've easily been more compact. The throttle cable bracket is cheesy, if you bolt the TV Cable bracket on, the bolts interfere with installing the throttle cable! I had to modify my cable to get it to fit the bracket. The software isn't perfect either, the stock fueling map is OK at best, but the stock timing maps are extremely aggressive. Honestly, it's not something I'd recommend unless you like to tinker and have plenty of hours to spend tuning and working out issues, or have access to a good dyno tuner. I also tried out the MSD system with the Sniper kit at Holley's recommendation, but like many users I found that it was incompatible and causes quite a lot of issues. Don't expect Holley to help you out here, their support is a little lacking and they fully expect you to eat the cost of the MSD components because "the information they provided was correct at the time". They'll blame the problem on everything but their system, but even their own techs running it on their own cars can't make it work, they've ditched it for the Dual Sync system too!

Did you enjoy it or is it no different than having a carb? - Hard to say right now. Once I get the issues ironed out and am able to drive it, I think I'll enjoy it more.


Would you do the swap again? - Maybe. I like the idea of the EFI and timing control, but I've never had an issue with a properly tuned carb and distributor timing curve.

Was it worth the extra cost? - That's a tough one. The system is advertised as $1000, but by the time you purchase your fuel system and distributor/supporting parts if you so choose, you can easily be into the swap at $2000 or more. $2000 could buy you a new carb, new distributor, even pay for dyno tuning and still leave you with money in your pocket. Definitely something to consider.

Notice any benefits? - I don't have to pump the pedal twice on cold days, LOL. Cold driveability is a bit easier, there's really no need to wait for warmup like a carb may need. A little smoother idle, but a lot of that is all in the tuning no matter what you have. Throttle response is improved but many people don't realize that these TBI units are really not comparable to vacuum secondary carbs that many users run on the street, it's more equivalent to a mechanical secondary carb.


If you truly want a bolt on and go system and aren't that willing to spend a lot of time tuning, save your money and stick with a carb.
 
Had a mid-80s Carter 650cfm carb on my 400 Ford. That broke down so I decided that I want to learn more about engines and that with my IT background a homebrew EFI swap would be the way to do the learning.

So I got a GM small block TBI with a 7747 ECU from a junkyard 91 truck, ordered Cardone oem replacement Ford electronic igniton dizzy to trigger the spark and set to work.

After some fiddling, I also ordered some EEPROM chips, a chinesium EEPROM burner, soldered an adaptor, found out that the cardone dizzy can't reliably trigger the GM ECU, converted to a $50 big cap HEI clone from eBay, got the system running mostly right.

Found out that the small block HEI unit limits airflow even at 2500-ish rpm, so I sourced a big block TBI unit. Spent weeks and weeks trying to dial AE/throttle response in (never was really crisp with the SB unit, totally sucked with the larger model), also suddenly started to suffer WOT misfires (which weren't there before).

Then, just after In got the car back on the road after an engine rebuild/upgrade (high-compression pistons and an aftermarket cam) the 7747 ECU failed on me.

Switched to the Holley Sniper, which also meant investing into a Bosch 044 fuel pump (being in Germany, going with a Bosch unit makes more sense in terms of easy replacement, should the need arise).

Sadly, my Sniper came with a broken-from-the-factory fuel pressure regulator.

Ever since that has been changed, the engine is transformed: Throttle response is crisp and instant, power is noticeably up while fuel consumption is down (probably due to the WB o2 being able to lean out the mixture in cruise much more efficiently than the HiWay Lean Cruise hacks for the GM system). Also, where the MSD units fail, my large cap HEI clone excels, so it controls spark reliably and without any problems.

-did you enjoy it or is it no different than having a carb?
I like the possibility to change basically every tuning parameter with a laptop instead of having to fiddle with jets and springs.

-would you do the swap again?

Totally.

-was it worth the extra cost?
Yes, eventhough in hindshight I'd probably gone from the sb TBI directly to the sniper, ommiting the TBI upgrade. On the other hand, all the knowledge gained from the homebrew GM stuff really helped me in setting up and tuning the Sniper. I think going homebrew first and aftermarket second really helps with a general understanding of how a throttle body injection works.
 
I have FiTech go efi 4 600 hp.

Installation was easy. I used a tanks inc tank and all new braided lines. It just started right up and ran great from day 1.

It runs way better than the edelbrock carb it replaced. The carb didn't really run that bad. But now it starts idles and runs cold or hot just alike a modern new car.

It was well worth it. I would do it again in a minute.

Only issue it has is probably because I have an out of the ordinary combination. It's a 10:1 454 with a small (208/218 .475/500) cam 3.08 gears and TKO 600. Big torque, average HP. So cruise rpm is like 1500 at 55. I get a lean spot when letting off and getting back on lightly around 1300. No amount of tuning can fix it, believe me I have made a serious effort. Well actually I can get rid of it, but at the expense of driveability everywhere else. The system just can't deal with it. It's not horrible. It's barely perceptible for a split second, not even a stumble really. I think with more gear it would just drive right through it. Oh well. Otherwise driveability is perfect. It drives like a modern car.
 
I rebuilt my engine and as you do made sure it went back together better than before, chose to use the Fitech Meanstreet 800 as already has MSD Programmable control timing.

Was aware of issues with FCC but purchased anyway as knew would come in useful on Engine Dyno, engine made 700lb.ft & 700hp using 1200cfm Carby then 685lb.ft & 685hp on Measnstreet, only changes made through Handheld was AFRs and some afterstart fuel enrichment, started on Cam 3 then changed to Cam 4, to date that is it.

Once installed in car was no issues for first couple of months, made passes down the quarter mile with a best of 11.22 @ 123, was happy until Weather started warming up and FCC started acting up, replaced the Pump inside it but did not solve issue.

Purchased Tanks Inc setup, used an Aeromotive 340 Pump, was fine on the streets and couple of happy laps day a local circuit however when returning to dragstrip would nose over at 60ft, this was due to a combination the internal baffling of tank no being adequate along with 340 pump quickly emptying remaining fuel.

This resulted in having to fit a surge tank, to which I had twin Bosch 044 pumps fitted, this then resulted in excess fuel pressure, had to then come up with External Regulator setup, have done a flow test and this setup is now good for 1200hp so will be plenty good for future upgrades, have since gone 10.93 @ 125.

Have had other minor issues along the way, the Handheld refuse to power on when receiving power from Throttle Body, simply routed power from ACC, the Regulator needed to be replaced as it kept losing pressure, ran at 58psi since day one then started dropping, later found out the Meanstreet was designed to run at 43psi, still running at 58psi today and Fuel Trim not high.

I have spent roughly $5500 total on EFI & Fuel system, have used all AN Fittings with 8AN Feed & 6AN Return Black Braided PTFE Hose.

If I was to do again would simply keep Holley Blue or use a Carter as a lift pump with original tank which would then feed existing Surge Tank setup.

It starts plenty easier nowadays and can pretty throw straight into reverse without stalling and back out of garage thus not filling house up with fumes, also no longer have drama of stalling near start line after coming out of burnout.

Mileage probably the same at 9.5mpg.
 
Single FiTech Go EFI 4 600HP Throttle body fuel injection

Nice tuners throttle body
Parameter names are easy to understand for shade tree tuners
Piece of cake to tune after reading all the docs
Simple to get timing control working with the recommended distributor

Only problem I had with it was wasting time trying to tune it to run lean. Where others have had success doing it, it just did not work as well as I wanted it too running lean on my motor. My motor runs smoother and starts easier a little richer than the default tune.

Don't care for the handheld interface connections. But it's still functioning going on 10 months.

Don't care for the fact that FiTech doesn't supply PC tuning software for all the units they sell. I like a pretty log chart as much as the next guy.

How does it work: Linear power with light throttle. Much better mid range power than a smaller cfm carburetor. Stronger longer pull than a smaller cfm carb from a dead stop launch.

I have no plans to buy another 60's muscle car, but if I were, I'd put EFI of some type on it rather than a carburetor. With that said, there's nothing wrong with a well tuned carburetor if that's as far as the budget will go. I would not put EFI on a car if it was a financial stretch.

Would buy FiTech again (if they are still around :D), because I understand how to tune their ECU. And, my car really does run great. No problem recommending to people that ask about it after seeing it under my hood.

Enjoy the Sniper Tom.
 
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Holley Sniper EFI, Tanks Inc. EFI tank, and new Weiand Stealth intake installed at the same time. Total cost was about $1500.00 after selling my AED 950 and stock intake.

Installation was straight forward, although time consuming. Like many others I replaced the CTS with a Standard unit to prevent future problems. I am running a DUI HEI ignition and have no plans at this time to change that.

I would do it again in a heartbeat.......no regrets, no issues! I would buy the same, exact set up again.

Car runs way better then before. Cold start manners and drivability are like those of a modern car.
 
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Holley Sniper 550-511
Robb Mc PowerSurge 4002
Jegs Pro-Flo 30r9 braided line
Jegs nickel AN fittings
Robb Mc fuel sender
Fast EZ efi throttle bracket 304147

Purchased my Sniper late last fall. Studied the manual, did a ton of reading here. Lots of questions asked and answered. Big thanks to everyone especially rel3rd. Used the winter to do my install, and some other projects. Did a final check over a few weeks ago. Went through the set up procedures, loaded the tune, and hit the key. It cranked for a bit, then lit right off. I have had a chance to run it a few times, and to put some miles on it. My experience has been nothing but positive. The car runs great, is so smooth, and just feels much better than it did before. I would recommend this to anyone who is thinking about going with this type of efi. I would definitely do this all over again, and relative to other large scale modifications I've done to my car, I don't feel the overall cost was that bad. I spent a bit more on hose and fittings than I could have, but in the end I am so very happy with the way it turned out.
Also, I had just replaced my entire fuel system not too long ago. So I didn't want to trash all the new parts I installed. I had installed a RobbMc 1/2" sending unit, and had just capped the return port. So when I saw they made the PowerSurge I figured that would be the way to go. Had I not just replaced the whole fuel system, then I would have gone with an intank fuel pump set up. So far this too has worked great, and I can't hear the pump while the car is running. If anyone is interested I have an album on my home page with pictures.
 
Edelbrock E street EFI W/sump tank w/timing control dizzy

It was a pretty straight forward install, had a few tach signal issues, but that's user error. Total cost before selling my previous setup was about $1,900. Car starts right up, and hauls down the road. My advice is not try to mess with the tuning so much. Would I do it again? For sure! It's pretty awesome seeing so many different gauges I didn't have before! Can't wait to take it to the track.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Last year I had Nickens Bros up in Conroe install the Holly HP Multiport 550-835 on my 540. We went with the 1000 cfm throttle body, they port matched the intake to my AFR 290 heads.

I love it. Idles at 850, cruises at 2000 rpm at 70 mph on the freeway, and is instant response all the way from dead idle to 6500 rpm.

The only draw back is the cost. When I first got the "kit", I figured there was no way I would ever get this done right doing it myself. I'm 70 years old, and still run my business. I decided to let a Pro do it.

The entire job was not cheap. I was lucky I already had my Ricks Stainless Steel Sump Tank, it solved a lot of problems.

Before this install, my shift point was around 6000. With the fuel injection, it pulls hard to 6500. I attribute most of this to the intake, as Fuel Injection intake is more of a high rise that has the flow characteristics of a Victor Junior.

Due to the added Height, I did have to have a bubble put in the hood. He did a great job.

I might add a Procharger in the future. 7 lbs of boost would put the 540 at about 950 hp. Figuring out where to put an intercooler is the big problem. That, and I would have to convert the front of the engine to a short water pump and serpentine belt system.

All in all, I am pleased.
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