[67RS502]

gotta port match not gasket match, as the gaskets used are often larger then the port csa

 

[steelcomp]

Why not enlighten us on your method of port matching?

I'll have to take some pics...I'll see if I can take time tomorrow.

 

[steelcomp]

gotta port match not gasket match, as the gaskets used are often larger then the port csa

:thumbsup:
Big difference between port matching and gasket matching.

 

[steelcomp]

Cant give that info out its highly classified.

Also without a gasket it cant be called gasket matching.

Harry

You're right...it's port matching.

 

[Bluegoose1970]

Shhhhh......Secret......
Bolt intake to heads, get adapter plate for intake, hookup 1 1/4" sandblasting hose, let her rip, everyplace you need flow, gets done, plenum area increases and ports match .
Disclaimer for those who need it: I'm joking!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[CharlieB53]

I think extrude-hone had possibilities. Bolt the intake and head together. Block off all but one intake. Push the material through. Repeat for each intake one at a time. Pushing material until the flow rate is the same as the first.

Even with a dual plane, this would ensure very equal flows.

Too bad they don't do it this way. That I know of.

 

[cv67]

Mamo port matches those intakes to the AFRs (and more) does a beautiful job too.

Why spend the coin on go fast parts and not get what you can out of them?

 

[Eric Weingartner]

I use the drill bit method too. I know many other do too. I am interested to see how else you could do it.

 

[engineguy]

I use the drill bit method too. I know many other do too. I am interested to see how else you could do it.

I too have used the drill method to insure that the manifold/gaskets/heads are properly aligned after port matching (aka gasket matching). Maybe it should be referred to as port to gasket to port matching??
If there is a better method, hopefully the mystery man will share his secrets . . . . . . .

 

[steelcomp]

OK, I'll put up a few of the basic steps, and not in a lot of detail. You smart guys can figure it out form here. This is for port matching, not gasket matching.

First I have to put the heads on a block...I have to know the customer's deck height to do this right. I mark the left and right sides of the ports, and the bottom and top. I also make a reference mark on the head near one of the bolt holes.

Next I set the intake on the engine (both heads installed) and I use an intake gasket as a spacer only to get the intake in the right orientation to the heads. I have used just pieces of a gasket on the four corners. Same difference. With a flashlight, I look into the ports and orient the intake on the heads as good as possible. Then I transfer two critical lines; bottom of the ports, and the vertical reference line.

From there, those two critical lines get transferred to the face of the intake flange and from there, I use a machinist scale to make measurements and transfer the dimensions from the head to the intake. This establishes the port "layout".

In the case above I used a gasket to make the port shapes, lining up the openings with my bottom/left/right scribe marks. Here I'm using AFR's smaller gasket for a set of 357's. The gasket is identical to the port opening. Normally I can't use a gasket since they're typically bigger than the port. When that's the case, I scribe the sides of the ports, and the tops and bottoms, and I use a circle template to draw in the corner radii.
This is Dal's intake:

Gaskets can be terribly inaccurate and inconsistent even from one port to the other. This way I have an exact (within .010") reproduction of the ports just as they are on the head, transferred directly to the intake. Also, using the gasket to match the intake and head usually means making them both fit the gasket and I very seldom, if ever, want to make the port opening in the head any bigger, at least on big blocks. Sometimes an as-cast head -especially a small block- needs a little "squaring up" and in some cases enlarging, but this method works no matter what you do.

 

[dtrubey]

OK, I'll put up a few of the basic steps, and not in a lot of detail. You smart guys can figure it out form here. This is for port matching, not gasket matching.

First I have to put the heads on a block...I have to know the customer's deck height to do this right. I mark the left and right sides of the ports, and the bottom and top. I also make a reference mark on the head near one of the bolt holes.

Next I set the intake on the engine (both heads installed) and I use an intake gasket as a spacer only to get the intake in the right orientation to the heads. I have used just pieces of a gasket on the four corners. Same difference. With a flashlight, I look into the ports and orient the intake on the heads as good as possible. Then I transfer two critical lines; bottom of the ports, and the vertical reference line.

From there, those two critical lines get transferred to the face of the intake flange and from there, I use a machinist scale to make measurements and transfer the dimensions from the head to the intake. This establishes the port "layout".

In the case above I used a gasket to make the port shapes, lining up the openings with my bottom/left/right scribe marks. Here I'm using AFR's smaller gasket for a set of 357's. The gasket is identical to the port opening. Normally I can't use a gasket since they're typically bigger than the port. When that's the case, I scribe the sides of the ports, and the tops and bottoms, and I use a circle template to draw in the corner radii.
This is Dal's intake:

Gaskets can be terribly inaccurate and inconsistent even from one port to the other. This way I have an exact (within .010") reproduction of the ports just as they are on the head, transferred directly to the intake. Also, using the gasket to match the intake and head usually means making them both fit the gasket and I very seldom, if ever, want to make the port opening in the head any bigger, at least on big blocks. Sometimes an as-cast head -especially a small block- needs a little "squaring up" and in some cases enlarging, but this method works no matter what you do.

Scott, my intake was dead nuts on to the ports. :thumbsup:

 

[steelcomp]

Scott, my intake was dead nuts on to the ports. :thumbsup:

Good to hear.
I like your new sig...:thumbsup:

 

[dtrubey]

Good to hear.
I like your new sig...:thumbsup:

... I like my new motor.

 

[GOSFAST]

Looks too confusing, I'll stick with the "drill" method. When finishing with this method we can even "hide" the drilled holes (in the intake)! We do this on all the stock appearing deals.

I have done this procedure, the fitting, in about 20 minutes, "floor-to-floor".

The gasket choice is really a moot point, a number of times we'll start with a blank gasket and incorporate it into the porting. Once all the (pinned) holes are located up it is a "perfect" deal!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I may be wrong, but by the time you lay out that program using that method we could possibly have the 1/2 the porting finished.

 

[steelcomp]

Looks too confusing, I'll stick with the "drill" method. When finishing with this method we can even "hide" the drilled holes (in the intake)! We do this on all the stock appearing deals.

I have done this procedure, the fitting, in about 20 minutes, "floor-to-floor".

The gasket choice is really a moot point, a number of times we'll start with a blank gasket and incorporate it into the porting. Once all the (pinned) holes are located up it is a "perfect" deal!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I may be wrong, but by the time you lay out that program using that method we could possibly have the 1/2 the porting finished.

Yeah, a little math and measuring can be confusing.
This is what you said:

P.S. There is no other accurate way (that I'm aware of after 38+ years of engine building) to get "perfect" port alignment, period!

I didn't say I had a faster way, just another way. I'm not in a hurry.

 

[GoFast Beaumont]

Thanks for you insight Scott. I remember reading your system elsewhere, but seemed confusing at the time. Pictures truly due help a lot!

Now to figure out if my stealth dual plane manifold should stay on or switch to a brodix dual plane for a little extra.