[Junkyard Dawg]

My S-10 has a leak at the compressor so I am going to replace it. I've also been told the accumulator needs to replaced as well since dirt can enter the system.

This is an R-134a system. I need to know if I need to have the entire system put under vacuum before I open it up? Or can I just have a shop suck out all the refrgerant?

Heck there may not be any left since it leaks so bad the compressor won't kick on.

While opened up what else should be replaced I'm guessing the fitting that mounts to the compressor has O rings???

I've never done an A/C repair before. But I want to try it and I want to do it right the first time. Any pointers are appreciated.

 

[Dean]

You won't need to evacuate the system until everything is buttoned back up.

You should also replace the orifice tube.

 

[LeoP]

Don't forget to purchase the correct PAG oil for the compressor and make sure you put the correct amount of oil in each component you are replacing. Good luck with your repair.

 

[BB_Mike]

I"m looking to do the same thing for my 97 Tahoe.

How much is your new compressor and where did you get it?

My shop said I need to replace:
Compressor - $465
Drier - $65
Oriface Tube - $10
Labor would be $120, unless I can find the parts and do the labor myself. I can't get into my for another two weeks. Please do post up your results, or if you don't mind I may email you when I decide on which route I want to take.

 

[Junkyard Dawg]

Well depending on where you get the compressor.....the "stealership" wants like $600 something for one, but the guy at the counter offered to get me one for $466. No mention on needing a new accumulator.

Retard Auto said they could sell both new and remanned units, for $250-$350. They also said like $47 for the accumulator.

What's this "orfice tube" you speak of?????? And what does it do?

So you're saying you don't put the system under vacuum until you are just about ready to put in the refrigerant? Is it mandatory to put the system under vacuum?

About the oil....you put the refrigerant in at the same time you put the oil in don't you?

 

[lsrx101]

If the system uses an R-4 compressor, do yourself a favor and either replace it with a NEW unit or convert it to a different compressor like a Seltec or Sanden. Remans of this compressor are like time bombs even if the repair is done 100% by the numbers. Some last, some don't, how lucky do you feel.

Have a shop recover the remaining refrigerant. Measure the oil in the old compressor. Add that much to the new compressor. Install your new compressor. Replace the accumulator and orifice tube. I would suggest spending the extra ~$5 and replace the seals in all of the fittings. It's not necessary but it is cheap insurance and very easy to do at this point. If you replaced the accumulator add about 1.5-2 ounces to the new part. Have a shop evacuate and recharge the system. Evacuating (pulling a vacuum) is mandatory to remove air and moisture from the system.

A note on the accumulator. It is a wear item in the AC system kind of like your engine oil filter. It traps contaminants and absorbs moisture from the system. Replacement is about as mandatory as changing your oil filter. You don't "have" to, but why wouldn't you?

 

[Dean]

If it's been leaking, there probably won't be any remaining refrigerat to recover but you can check for pressure at the access port and see before you take it to anyone, either that or just wait until it your sure it has all leaked out.

What year is your S-10?
Look for the orifice tube inside the liquid line.

I hope you don't run into that problem that I had on my 94 GMC.
Steel nuts on aluminum fittings would not come off without taking the threads off the aluminum or twisting off the ends.
I wound up having to replace the evaporator, condenser, and all lines.
GM engineering :angry:

 

[Junkyard Dawg]

My S-10 is a '97 model. I do happen to have an a/c charge gauge. I'll bet it's well past the green by now.

I was thinking of just replacing the compressor and getting a few cans of the do-it-yourself recharge kits. Only thing is does the oil for the compressor get into the evaporator too? What if I just put on the new compressor and replaced the accumulator...couldn't I just recharge it like that? The "oil" thing sorta has me scratching my head in terms of how much to put in. Those cans of R-134a have it premixed.

If the system uses an R-4 compressor, do yourself a favor and either replace it with a NEW unit or convert it to a different compressor like a Seltec or Sanden. Remans of this compressor are like time bombs even if the repair is done 100% by the numbers. Some last, some don't, how lucky do you feel.

Thanx for the heads up....how do you tell if it's an R-4? What are my alternatives on compressors?

 

[lsrx101]

The R-4 is the compressor that GM has been using since the 70s. About 8 inches in diameter and 3-4 inches thick. Many newer GM vehicles are using Sanden compressors. I'm not sure what your 97 uses.

You can't just grab a few cans of R-134 and charge the AC (Well, you "can" but it doesn't work out well). You have to pull the system into a deep vacuum before charging.

 

[Junkyard Dawg]

But pulling into vacuum is only required after the system is put under vacuum right?

How can you tell if it's a Sanden compressor?

On the other hand I have a shop here that says they'll charge me $130 toconvert R-12 to R-134a. Hhhmm....

 

[Junkyard Dawg]

The R-4 is the compressor that GM has been using since the 70s. About 8 inches in diameter and 3-4 inches thick. Many newer GM vehicles are using Sanden compressors. I'm not sure what your 97 uses.

Don't know if this is of any help but the compressor is 5 1/2 inches in diameter and about 8 or so inches long and says Delphi on it....the p/n of the compressor is 1136557.

 

[lsrx101]

Don't know if this is of any help but the compressor is 5 1/2 inches in diameter and about 8 or so inches long and says Delphi on it....the p/n of the compressor is 1136557.

That doesn't sound like an R-4. You should be ok.