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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am gonna be receiving a used Cheater Kit off a member here shortly and I just have a few questions concerning nitrous for my application. My combo is in in my signature.

1. I am running a stock-type rebuild bottem end with low miles(stock crank, rods, w/ hyper pistons). I am also adding 195cc AFR Heads so I figure I will be around 370-390HP N/A. Will my bottem end survive a 100 Shot? (i'll have the safety stuff like fuel pressure switch)

2. Can I get by on 93 Octane with a 100 shot? (It has 9.7 CR and has never had a problem with detonation).

3. I have a Carter 120GPH self-regulated mechanical pump...will this be sufficent? I was considering getting a cheap 100GPH self-regulated Carter electric and use both pumps for Nitrous hits...is this necessary?

4. I've heard different things on running Nitrous with a manual transmission. Some say a window switch will keep me out of problems , while others say I need a switch on the clutch pedal to disengage nitrous when the clutch is depressed (but then what happens if I miss the shift?). Just trying to see what members here have done with N20 and manuals?

Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate it

Nick
 
1. Assuming the bottom end is tight and well built it should take a 100 shot no problem. And those Afr's should definately help it on and off the bottle.
2. The 93 octane shouldn't be a problem just make sure you take out about 2-3 degrees of timing for the 100 shot. If you are really worried about it, you can go to a step colder spark plugs too.
3. You should be just fine with your mechanical pump, if you step up the shot to a 125-150 you might should consider an electric pump with a regulator.
4. Although I don't own a manual tranny, I built and tuned a manual tranny drag truck for a friend with nitrous. We never ran any type of interrupter switch on his nitrous set-up. As long as you let go of the button before it revs to the moon you'll be ok. But if you have a slow reaction, or miss shifts often you might ought to get a switch for it.

Just to make you feel a little more comfortable, I ran a 150 shot at least twice a month to a cast crank, stock rod, and CAST piston motor on 91 octane for more than a year with absolutly no problems.
Just pay attention to your motor, and don't neglect the nitrous system.
 
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I sprayed my stock 2bolt cast crank ,stock rods, claimer hyper pistons with a 200 shot and have had no problems. I did use race gas and total timing at 27 deg with a cold plug too. I spray a 100 shot to it all the time on pump gas.


The ONLY way stock parts live is don't detonate it and don't over rev it. I shift at 5500-5700 on motor and 5000 on spray.

I'm not sure about the 4 speed deal. sorry
 
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I also sprayed a two bolt, with cast crank, stock rods, and cast pistons and I hit it with a 225hp shot for over two years down the track. It was a fresh engine and I retarted my timing 6 deg. and run a R42 plug and as far as i know its still kicking today, but i wouldn't recommend running that much of a shot on that kind of a cast set up.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks for response. Any other ideas on what I need to do to run N20 on a manual transmission? And is the consensus is that 93 octane will work with a 100 shot?
 
Better fuel and better pump is generally recommended at 150hp+.I ran a 150 shot with a Mallory mech comp pump far a couple of years,no problems.The NOS 125 Powershot is for bone stock engines,you're plenty fine with 100hp & 93 oct.Make a pass with some 43 or 42 plugs then take a look at them.I wouldn't have more than 36* total timing.

The kit you purchase will have the manufacturers guidelines/recommendations.Follow the ones for your kit.We compared my NX(Hitman) to a NOS system and there's quite a bit of difference there.
 
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