[Neal Wright]

I know that I’ve read many times on here, people moving brake distribution block on top of frame (1969 Malibu) to clear BBC headers (Hooker #2455, 2” long tube).

I’ve searched as much as I can, but could someone post a pic of how theirs came out. I have a rebuilt dist block, and Inline stainless brake lines … and am just worried about pinching one of the brake lines, or not reaching? If I cut the bracket off the dist block (and sandwich it to the frame) … I think the headers would barely clear, but like most I’m worried about radiating heat from the headers into the brake fluid.

Thanks, Neal

P.S. Also have a Z’bar (4spd) to run.

 

[crankitup]

I installed 2" headers last winter also. I removed the bracket like you said, to give a little extra clearance. That was enough clearance for mine to work.

 

[mc71454]

Same here, moved mine up on to the frame for my Monte (Hooker 2455's) amd the Chevelle (Summit brand 1 3/4).

 

[Skeeveman]

I just unbolted mine from the frame and gently bent each of the brake lines until the block one on top of the frame. Watch the line that runs to the front left wheel, it will try to bend in a hurry on you.

 

[figbash]

FWIW, I have brake lines that are less than an inch from my 2 1/8" headers and the brakes work just fine. I did lots of hot weather driving this summer with zero issues. I'd just leave the block where it is rather than risk kinking a tube which will most definitely have an effect on your braking performance.

Tom

 

[aukai]

It only takes a little distance to beat the problem. Mine is still very close but no problems any more

 

[Neal Wright]

Well, it definitely has to move somewhere ... the stock location needs about 1/8" to clear headers.

Cutting the bracket off would probably bring it to just touch the headers (nothing like 1/8" clearance).

 

[MonteMan454]

At a 1/8 clearance I would move it since the motor could likely "rock sideways" when under load.

But 1 inch or so shouldn't be bad. The heat shouldn't transfer that much at that distance. I think brake fluid isn't highly susceptible to heating up as well .

 

[wildman926]

i Just Unbolted Mine From The Frame And Gently Bent Each Of The Brake Lines Until The Block One On Top Of The Frame. Watch The Line That Runs To The Front Left Wheel, It Will Try To Bend In A Hurry On You.

X2!!

 

[Neal Wright]

Add … dimpling header tube by driver side lower control arm. So, that makes the passenger side completely untouched … and the drivers side looks like a Detroit highway. Grand total is …

Hammered around steering shaft.
Hammered around lower control arm.
Move brake distribution block (and all associated brake lines).

To say the least, not thrilled with Hooker Headers. I had ~6hrs into figuring out where to move the brake distribution block. I tried on top of the frame rail first (as suggested), but simply did not have enough brake line. Found a great place to move the distribution block is actually ~1.5” to the rear and up. Finding the perfect location allowed my brake line crossing over to the passenger side to pass by the affending header tube (the one that used to hit the dist block) with 1/4" clearance. Allowed the brake line going to the driver side front to pass under the 4spd Z’bar. Allowed the brake line going to rear to pass over top of the “reverse lockout” pivot block.

Finding the right location definitely took a fair amount of the time, but the most difficult part was trying to drill/tap new holes with the engine in place. To say the least, this wasn’t going well … but it’s done!

Thanks, Neal