I´m also wondering. Does anyone have a picture showing how to rig up the rear axle in a jig, so it does not twist when welding?

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I would make a jig. Even if its out of wood. Just something to line everything up. build the jig right on the 8.2 you have, then unbolt it and cut brackets off. It will be a lot easier than trying to tack an axle under your car.

and you're going to have all adjustable control arms right?

 

I would do at least a simple jig. Also, keep in mind that your 8.2 has some support ribs cast into the rear end to support the upper control arm mounts. When welding the mounts onto a 9", you may have some trouble supporting the mounts because the 9" ring gear loads from the front, so I don't know how it would work out to weld them on and support them.

If you know what I mean.

 

Thanks Dan and Steve, that is a good idea about making your own cheap jig, maybe I'll do that, it might be easier to get the pinion angle correct doing it that way too. I wasnt planning on adjustable control arms but maybe that will make it more feasible to get it perfect after its all done. The upper control arm mounts on the pumpkin, I was afraid of that, they are cast normally so that is a great point, I'll have to figure that out! Thanks again for the advice and ideas!

 

no prob. Heres a link I found with a Jeep axle swap. Not the neatest jig, but it works.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JAfrontD44arb/FrontD44arb.htm

And I would definitely go with all adjustable control arms. Its a lot easier to adjust an arm then to grind off and re-weld brackets.

 

The Mustang 8.8 has eyes cast into the top of the housing and many people are adapting these to the G body cars. The Crown Vic might have these eyes too, but I don't know. I've cut the brackets off of the Chevelle housings and welded them to other housings without a jig. I set the rear end up on stands and get it level and level the pinion. Then I make very carefull measurements using a plumb bob and a electronic angle finder and make detailed drawings of everything. I would at least use adjustable upper arms with heim joints to make up for the difference in the angles.

 

Thanks for the link, that helps me visualize it all. Plumb bob, angle finder and adjustable upper arms all sound like details I need to look into! The plumb bob did not enter my mind, that makes alot of sense. The arms are a great idea for fine adjustments. Thanks everyone for taking the time!

 

is this for the elky or something else?
my friend has a 9" from a 65 f100 he wants to sell. has currie mounts already welded to it. it was done at some shop locally. let me know ill give you his number. it was a complete rear he wants to unload cheap.

aaron

 

For the RX7, it strangely enough is set up just like an old Chevy 4 link rear, I didnt want to say RX7 though.

 

you didnt have to say it then. i was curious since you have like 19hundred cars lol

aaron

 

I just did that to my car. I had a factory 10 bolt and replaced it with a 9". I put the 10 bolt on top of my work bench a tack welded the lower control arms to the bench. I used some angle iron and tack welded it the bench and mounted the upper control arms to the angle iron. I marked the location of the axle centerline, measured the pinion angle, and then removed the 10 bolt from the bench by unbolting it from the control arms. I purchased a set of 9" brackets from currie for about 150 bucks. They included a johhny joint where the top control arm bushing is located on the housing. I put the 9" on the bench, set the pinion angle and tack welded the brackets on the housing using the upper and lower control arms for locating points. Here are some pictures.....

 

Here is the almost finished product

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=342515

 

Awesome idea Michael doing it on the bench like that! You just remove the old from the control arms and slide the new one into place, makes working with a homemade jig even easier, thanks for sharing.