So, i have a 67 with Entropy Alum radiator; Dual Spal low Profile fans on a Vintage Air Serp setup w/ AC on a 454 and it is Very tight. This was a major pain in the ass to install but it looks and performs very nice. I don’t know if you’re going for aesthetics or performance, but I’d recommend if what is there works now you leave it alone. But if you’re stupid like me and want that Serpentine setup for aesthetics I would understand.

 

Btw, I should warn you now but the Anti-Electric Fan Squad is going to come after you on here and they mean business!

 

Anti electric fan squad ? Are they anti hp too ?

 

Yes, absolutely true with the anti-electric fan crowd but for some situations, there's simply no other good choice. I'm running a two-row, 1.25 inch tube Cold Case radiator with a pair of their tightly-shrouded 12 inch electric fans. Shrouds are VERY important. This setup keeps my LS engine chilled to the standard 210 degrees F temperature stuck in traffic on the hottest of Louisiana summertime days.

Your fan controller is also important. You say there isn't air conditioning on the vehicle but you should pick your fan controller with the idea that someday the vehicle might have it. The fan controller should have the provision of kicking on one fan the instant that the AC compressor is turned on. This fan will help to control AC compressor head pressures before the fan would have turned on for engine heat reasons.

For cooling safety and redundancy, I run two fan controllers - one for each fan. My fans turn on at different temperatures and each has its own power supply, ground, relay, fuse and adjustable thermostat for overall best reliability.

Rick

 

I’ve had good luck with Dakota Digital’s controller in the past, I’ve used it on 2 fan setups with success, I also wire in a bypass switch and use speed hut gauges which have built in high/low warning lights.

 

With electrics, go with the largest double row big tube radiator you can find and the best Spal fans FLOW and Amp draw. Avoid the 3 and 4 row radiators as the fans don't work well with them. Fan systems are also hampered by anything you put n front of the fan like trans coolers. Also, look into a good shroud with highway flaps that open at highway speeds. At highway speeds, your electric fans become resistance to air flow.

Sorry, can't add any input on using ford fans. If you go that route I would like to see a build thread on your progress and final results.

You are already at a disadvantage as the year you have has a smaller radiator and opening and limited space between the coolant pump and radiator. A larger radiator is going to eat into this clearance as well.

One wire alt will work. Just pull your high drain devices from an added bussbar that draws power from the battery post near the alt feed point instead of using the factory wiring harness.

You can upgrade your factory harness by replacing the cross radiator support wire with a larger 8 gauge wire tied into the4way connector spice near the horn relay. Protect the circuit near the take off point with a suitably sized fusible link. The wire runs to other components from the 4 way splice should also be protected with a fusible link, if not, install some sort of circuit protection device.

 

any links to a radiator you’re talking about? His car has the cap/fill in the middle and the upper outlet on the driver side

With electrics, go with the largest double row big tube radiator you can find and the best Spal fans FLOW and Amp draw. Avoid the 3 and 4 row radiators as the fans don't work well with them. Fan systems are also hampered by anything you put n front of the fan like trans coolers. Also, look into a good shroud with highway flaps that open at highway speeds. At highway speeds, your electric fans become resistance to air flow.

Sorry, can't add any input on using ford fans. If you go that route I would like to see a build thread on your progress and final results.

You are already at a disadvantage as the year you have has a smaller radiator and opening and limited space between the coolant pump and radiator. A larger radiator is going to eat into this clearance as well.

One wire alt will work. Just pull your high drain devices from an added bussbar that draws power from the battery post near the alt feed point instead of using the factory wiring harness.

You can upgrade your factory harness by replacing the cross radiator support wire with a larger 8 gauge wire tied into the4way connector spice near the horn relay. Protect the circuit near the take off point with a suitably sized fusible link. The wire runs to other components from the 4 way splice should also be protected with a fusible link, if not, install some sort of circuit protection device.

 

I have one of these. Nice piece. Nice price. PS I’m part of the anti electric fan squad.

Engineered Cooling Products

Aluminum Radiators For Classic Muscle Cars, Trucks and Jeeps

speedcooling.com

 

I have a 454 in my '66 el camino, I run a Dewitts aluminum radiator and the contour fans you mention. clearance on a short waterpump car is about 1/2".

Here is a write up of my install.

 

First make sure you got a short water pump or you will have a clown show like this. (1965 BBC Chevelle tall water pump here).

 

If your in So-cal Champion radiators are made in Lake Elsinore. I bought their 2 core and just ordered their shroud and 2 12" spal setup. I'm running a tall WP with the March pullies. Mine will have roughly the same look and clearance as Lew540's. It's definitely stuffing 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag. But I'm more concerned with everything working together over how it all looks. I'm not building a show car I'm building a pavement pounder.