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Dan Orgill

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
That won't break the bank....

This will be for a 496, street use only.

I've seen so many sets on Summit that it makes my head spin & my wallet run for cover. What's everyone using?

Thanks folks.
 
I carry Rollmaster, hands down the best set made but expensive. I also carry SA gear which is made in IL. They are a quality set that wont break the bank.
 
I like the Crane Cams double roller billet steel sprocket sets.
Guy
 
Yes, hyd. roller.
The GM timing set works great for an inexpensive reliable hyd roller timing set. GenVI style is easiest to install, just set the cam in place, bolt up the retainer and you are done. Only downside is if the block is line honed, you will probably end up with it being too loose. In the GenVI style, Cloyes does make a line honed set. I had the CLoyes GenVI set in my 469" motor, was able to reuse it when I built the 540". Had maybe 1000 miles on it, looked and fit like brand new.
 
I've had good luck with the very basic $30 Cloyes sets...doing a lot more spring pressure and RPM than you would expect. Never had an issue with them.

The Rollmaster stuff is very nice also.

JIM
 
Rollmaster makes a line hone set for the gen 6. Some think that the chain is modified but this is not the case. To take up the slack the cam gear is larger to take up slack. Rollmaster makes a .005" and .010" line hone set.

Chain is the key here. The IWIS chain that Rollmaster uses is propritory to them. They designed it many years ago. Unlike most chain this stuff is assembled to the number of links used in a set then stretched. Chain is usually stretched in long runs. The rollmaster stuff is much more accurate and will last much longer.
 
I just went through this with one of those $40.00 "budget" 3-way adjustable timing sets, won't mention their name.

After repeated attempts to degree in the cam, here's what I found:

"Straight Up" was about 3.5° late

+4° was within 1/2°

-4° was actually -6.5° late

I bought a ~$170.00 Crane Pro Series Billet Roller set to replace the "budget" set.

It was within 1/2° at +4°, 0° and -4°

Money well spent.
 
What happens to cam timing when the chain stretches?
 
Well I don't know if that is too terrible. To me that is the main reason for degreeing the cam. To check the parts. Granted, the parts are expected to be right on but the cheaper ones do have these tolerances. Even my street chain in the Nova, straight up was 1.5 advanced. So that is where I left it. My Chevelle chain was like 1/2 degree advanced. So that is where that wound up. I've found that very rarely does anyone play with cam advancing/retarding on an average build. As long as straight up is achievable you are good to go. For a high hp build, a good chain should be used anyway and the tolerances are much tighter.
 
No not really. Different chains stretch at different rates. Also depends on use. That's why if it's a little advanced at install, it won't hurt anything.
 
So do you figure chain stretch into the cam degree process?
Did anyone ever research/dyno how much to add in while degreeing and loss of power after the chain stretched? Not sure but I heard Pre-heating the chain will cure the stretching or is it just BS?
 
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