Tried the electrical forum but no answers.What are the advantages to upgrading from an external voltage regulator to an internal voltage regulator alternator? And what amp alternator would work best street/strip car msd ign., mallory dist, tach, cd stereo (no amps),electric fan, electric fuel pump.
Internal vs external voltage regulator
JJ71CHEVELLE
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Tried the electrical forum but no answers.What are the advantages to upgrading from an external voltage regulator to an internal voltage regulator alternator? And what amp alternator would work best street/strip car msd ign., mallory dist, tach, cd stereo (no amps),electric fan, electric fuel pump.
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An internal voltage regulator has no moving parts. From a performance standpoint, the average guy with an idiot light will probably never notice the difference between a properly operating model of each.
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Nor does an EXTERNAL if you replace the OEM points type with a Wells VR715.
And from the outside, they both look the same.
Plug 'n Play and about $20 from your favorite auto parts store.
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The internally-regulated alternators throw more amps at idle and low speed.
That's reason enough to ditch the external-regulated alternator for a 10- or 12-SI internal regulated unit in my book.
The first-generation CS-style alternators have overheating and rear bearing issues; but those from '96 (???) and newer are re-designed and seem to be OK.
That's reason enough to ditch the external-regulated alternator for a 10- or 12-SI internal regulated unit in my book.
The first-generation CS-style alternators have overheating and rear bearing issues; but those from '96 (???) and newer are re-designed and seem to be OK.
Hmmm.
External voltage regulator fails: replace it.
Externally regulated alternator fails: replace it/fix it. Probably replace it unless your lucky enough to be at home or shop when it fails.
Internal regulator alternator or its integral voltage regulator fails: replace it/them.
Not sure about the relative costs of each.
Suppose you can get a high amps output unit of either design.
I like my new printer/scanner/copier/fax all-in-one; especially the document feeder--but if it goes on the fritz, can't do nuthin' (except retrieve the ancient fax machine or old printer and flatbed from the attic, and go back to work).
My $0.02
External voltage regulator fails: replace it.
Externally regulated alternator fails: replace it/fix it. Probably replace it unless your lucky enough to be at home or shop when it fails.
Internal regulator alternator or its integral voltage regulator fails: replace it/them.
Not sure about the relative costs of each.
Suppose you can get a high amps output unit of either design.
I like my new printer/scanner/copier/fax all-in-one; especially the document feeder--but if it goes on the fritz, can't do nuthin' (except retrieve the ancient fax machine or old printer and flatbed from the attic, and go back to work).
My $0.02
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this is what im running right now and no problems. but people keep telling me that an internal regulator is better. they do'nt know why it's better when i ask them they just know it's better. guess i'll leave it the way is for now. like they say "if it ain't broken, do'nt fix it"Nor does an EXTERNAL if you replace the OEM points type with a Wells VR715.
And from the outside, they both look the same.
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The problem with the original style external reg is the points tend to stick together, causing the battery to be overcharged. Especially on a car that's only driven occasionally.
Trust me...I've had that happen.
Replacing with the electronic external reg eliminates that issue but still retains that "stock" look.
If that is something important to you.
One of the first things I did to my '70 Sports Sedan was replace the original reg with the Wells unit. Being that it has all it's original drive train, I want this car to remain "as is" stock but still reliable.
Trust me...I've had that happen.
Replacing with the electronic external reg eliminates that issue but still retains that "stock" look.
If that is something important to you.
One of the first things I did to my '70 Sports Sedan was replace the original reg with the Wells unit. Being that it has all it's original drive train, I want this car to remain "as is" stock but still reliable.
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had that problem before. Volt gauge would go over 16v but that wells vr715 regulator fixed that problem. Thanks for the replys guysthe problem with the original style external reg is the points tend to stick together, causing the battery to be overcharged. Especially on a car that's only driven occasionally.
Trust me...i've had that happen.
replacing with the electronic external reg eliminates that issue but still retains that "stock" look.
If that is something important to you.
One of the first things i did to my '70 sports sedan was replace the original reg with the wells unit. Being that it has all it's original drive train, i want this car to remain "as is" stock but still reliable.
I also run the Wells vr715, with an original 1968 61 amp alternator. More power at idle with the lights on would be nice, but she keeps the battery charged without any problem.
Loads include 500 watts stereo, electric fuel pump, and EFI. No electric fans tho.
Loads include 500 watts stereo, electric fuel pump, and EFI. No electric fans tho.
The Wells VR715 & at a min 61 amp alt but a good rbld shop can easily upgrade a stock 61 amp alt to 75-80amps .
Then with an 80amp alt along with that upgraded Wells electronic volt reg you should be ok.
i belive i have seen some new or rblt/upgradedoler styl ext reg 100 alts on ebay too so chk that out if you cant find a local rbler to upgrade yours.
Since your running elec fuel pump/elec fans/stereo/ele ign loading the system more then normal if your running man trans you should also inc the idle from a normal 700-750 to approx 950-1k rpm .
Inc the idle rpm with older style alts helps them to put out a little more volts/amps when at idle esp in traffic at night with lights on too.
But in summary upgrade your current alt (if 61 amp may be marginal ) to 80 amps or buy new 100 amp alt from ebay that are both still ext reg alts . Then along with the new electronic well's etcternal reg & running the idle a little higher if possible with man trans you should be fine and not have to bother changing over or rewiring anything which will be much easier going that route in this case IMHO.
Forgot to also mention that fact you need powerfull/fresh in good cond battery with high AMP HR & CCA rating to better deal with lower alt output for short periods of time when at idle too. Thats because if the battery is in so so cond and or if it's fresh but of low amp hr/cca rating you will see more amps/volt flucuation when at idle & you will hear the fuel pump/elec cooling fan slow down just a bit for short amount of time when at idle . But as i said before with a fresh higher output alt/new elec reg/and higher idle if possible volt/amp fluctuation/drop at idle that should not be as much of an issue esp with a strong battery.
Scott
Then with an 80amp alt along with that upgraded Wells electronic volt reg you should be ok.
i belive i have seen some new or rblt/upgradedoler styl ext reg 100 alts on ebay too so chk that out if you cant find a local rbler to upgrade yours.
Since your running elec fuel pump/elec fans/stereo/ele ign loading the system more then normal if your running man trans you should also inc the idle from a normal 700-750 to approx 950-1k rpm .
Inc the idle rpm with older style alts helps them to put out a little more volts/amps when at idle esp in traffic at night with lights on too.
But in summary upgrade your current alt (if 61 amp may be marginal ) to 80 amps or buy new 100 amp alt from ebay that are both still ext reg alts . Then along with the new electronic well's etcternal reg & running the idle a little higher if possible with man trans you should be fine and not have to bother changing over or rewiring anything which will be much easier going that route in this case IMHO.
Forgot to also mention that fact you need powerfull/fresh in good cond battery with high AMP HR & CCA rating to better deal with lower alt output for short periods of time when at idle too. Thats because if the battery is in so so cond and or if it's fresh but of low amp hr/cca rating you will see more amps/volt flucuation when at idle & you will hear the fuel pump/elec cooling fan slow down just a bit for short amount of time when at idle . But as i said before with a fresh higher output alt/new elec reg/and higher idle if possible volt/amp fluctuation/drop at idle that should not be as much of an issue esp with a strong battery.
Scott
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18,123 Posts
unless originality is an issue, convert to a CS series alternator. you will like it.
but when you do convert, run a big wire directly from the big post on the back of the alt directly to the + terminal on the battery. your car will run better and your lights will be brighter.
but when you do convert, run a big wire directly from the big post on the back of the alt directly to the + terminal on the battery. your car will run better and your lights will be brighter.
My lights are always biright with ext reg alt thats convetred to 80 amps with wells electronic volt reg and 900rpm idle with man trans,nvetr been an issue even with heater motor running ,signals on,etc.
Lights only dip a bit when i shut the motor down with lightsa still on and motor stops and alt stops running,then the light dip a bit.
Been running that stock ext reg setup with older style ext reg alt for over 30 yrs,no issues at all ,ever.
The ext reg systems with good powerfull alt esepcially along with the wells newer design elctronic reg is not near as bad as everyone says it is when setup properly from my 37yrs exp with them.
Its poor ground ,poor wiring,poor connections,weak alts,weak batteires that are more of an issue 8-9 of 10 times people are having issues with the older ext reg charging systems when not totally overloaded with newer design addon on accessories. Even then an 80-100amp alt and well reg when all else is correct that will handle most elec fuel pumps & cooling fans along wityh elec ign and a hot stereo with no need to bother with rewiring a newer design alt into the system. It seems a lot easier to get a good alt /battery/well reg then to have to still get an up graded alt with new reg inside and rewirie that all in when you can avoid it with good part choices with a stronger 80-100 amp ext reg alt and doing it properly as stated above.
I beat it to death because i know thats the case and over half the guys going thru all the rewiring for newer alts etc dont have to when it comes down to it if they get the stock systems right,thats where i am comming from here & point i am trying to make.
Scott
Lights only dip a bit when i shut the motor down with lightsa still on and motor stops and alt stops running,then the light dip a bit.
Been running that stock ext reg setup with older style ext reg alt for over 30 yrs,no issues at all ,ever.
The ext reg systems with good powerfull alt esepcially along with the wells newer design elctronic reg is not near as bad as everyone says it is when setup properly from my 37yrs exp with them.
Its poor ground ,poor wiring,poor connections,weak alts,weak batteires that are more of an issue 8-9 of 10 times people are having issues with the older ext reg charging systems when not totally overloaded with newer design addon on accessories. Even then an 80-100amp alt and well reg when all else is correct that will handle most elec fuel pumps & cooling fans along wityh elec ign and a hot stereo with no need to bother with rewiring a newer design alt into the system. It seems a lot easier to get a good alt /battery/well reg then to have to still get an up graded alt with new reg inside and rewirie that all in when you can avoid it with good part choices with a stronger 80-100 amp ext reg alt and doing it properly as stated above.
I beat it to death because i know thats the case and over half the guys going thru all the rewiring for newer alts etc dont have to when it comes down to it if they get the stock systems right,thats where i am comming from here & point i am trying to make.
Scott
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