I would think you wcould go to http://nhra.com/ and check the rules for your class. It will also stipulate tube dimensions too.

 

5 point, though most opt to do a 6 point.

 

How safe do you want to be?

 

If you're gonna race do a 10-point IMO. If you ever roll it you'll be glad it's there.

 

Got a 6 pt in my car...legal to 9.99

 

Me too

 

10 Point In Mine. Wouldn't Want Less In A Roll Over. Especially In The 10.xx's Or Quicker.

 

I have never seen a certified six point bar collapse in a roll over. If one were to give up the ghost it would be an unusual circumstance that caused it. A guy here was killed a few years ago but his roll bar was still intact after the wreck. His helmet came off and his head hit the roll bar several times but he was a very tall guy and the roll bar wasn't padded properly. Rolling a car at 135 MPH is very dangerous and sometimes fatal and when your time is up, it's up. One guy here was made to put in a roll bar in a truck a couple of years ago to run at our midnight races and what he came up with resembled a shower curtain rod, chrome and all. I'd have made him get it certified, as i'm sure it couldn't have passed any tech inspection but he got by with it for a couple of visits. I haven't seen him out recently.

 

Yeah, go for the 10 point...It's easier to put the halo in now...I only have an 8pt. in my car, but it's only a 12 second car...I technically dont need one until 11.50, but I would not go faster than 11.99 without a rollbar anyway...

 

As mentioned a 6pt is all you need and the NHRA knows there stuff pretty well and are usually overkill on the safety items. If this car is a street car that will see a little drag action, I would go with the 6pt, it is much less obstructive and doesn't make your car look like a race car. With that said if you plan on a lot of strip action I would upgrade a bit, we always want to go faster.

 

actually a 5 point is all that is needed to 10.00...if you run 9.99 be prepaired to get booted

 

What size tbg do you need and how do you attach to the car? I am running 12.6 now but I am building the engine this winter to run low 11's, mabey even into the 10's. I looked at the NHRA website and coulden't find it. Is there kit,s you can buy.
Cheers
Bear

 

True a 5 pt is all that's needed. Most kits are sold as 6 or 8 (even number of points). A 5pt is just a 6pt missing the passenger side door bar. Of course there are different configurations but, typically that's how they are set up. Grab a copy of the NHRA rule book and you will find all the info you need to make your car legal.

Tubing must be 1 3/4" O.D. X .118" thick if using mild steel or .083 thick if using chromoly. The crossbar (behind the seat/s) can be 1 1/4" O.D.. There are other rules and the cage/bar has to be installed correctly to be legal (bars located properly, etc..) Moly cages mustbe TIG welded, mild steel can be MIG welded (no gas or arc welding allowed).

If your car has a frame the cage must be attached to the frame. If it is a unibody car then the cage must be welded to 6" x 6" 1/8" plate welded to the floor/rocker sill or two 1/8" plates one above and one below the floor bolted with at least 4 3/8" bolts.

Once again your best bet is to get a rule book there is too much info to type it all here.

 

I have an S&W kit,(8 points) if you want the specifics of the rules you have to buy a rule book from NHRA.

 

a couple of points...you can not grind the welds, it is real hard to weld the back bars to the hoop...you can do it by cutting 2" holes in the floor where the hoop is going to penetrate...then cut holes in a plate to cover the holes. then after tacking the back bars to the hoop in place...you can lower the hoop through the floor to weld the back bars to the hoop. Then raise the hoop and weld to the frame. Then use the plates with the holles to cover holes in floor.

 

If you are going to have one installed, just get the 10pt. Good for sub 9's.

 

Harold, The 10 Point Cage Was Just A Personal Preference Of Mine. Your Right Though, It Won't Matter If You Even Have A Pro Stock Type Chassis When It's Your Time To Go. I Just Prefer To Have A Little Extra Margin Of Safety At Those Speeds.

 

I'm a real big believer in predestination. The wreck that Dale Earnhart died in shouldn't have even hurt him. Likewise the Michael Waltrip walked away from one that i was sure was fatal, hit a split in the wall head on and stopped in about two feet. My son's car is getting too fast to be safe now and it has a 10 point cage. A parachute is a good piece of safety equip as you can pull the chute if the car gets out of shape and help get it back under control. Skating around at 135 gets anybodies attention.

 

Man I hate to be the first to say this but ............. Putting a 10-point roll cage in, a Halon fire system & kill button in the car was the only way to get the wife to calm down :hurray: :hurray:

 

Another vote for 10 point. I tried one of those pre-fabbed roll bars and it did not fit well. It works but way to visible and confining. IMO the only way to go is a custom made install. I use mine for both street and strip and the custom made one is tucked in all the right places. You have to look for it to know it is there. Choose wisely and be happy with it.

 

UM, i forget what the points are...... i think i have a 8 but i cant even remember. how do you count them. its been a long morning forgive my ignorance

 

Count the number of places the roll bar/cage attach to the frame/body.

 

Here is an exellent argument for a roll bar. This is at the 330ft mark in low 10second cars

 

Go for the cage. Not only for the added safety, but it's always a selling point if the chassis is certified or able to be.

 

Another thing to consider.

A 10 point cage with bars through the firewall to the frame adds a lot of chassis stifness. Especially to a Chevelle.

Also, a full cage can be made from 1 5/8 diameter tubing.
A 6pt bar has to be 1 3/4 tubing.

And, depending on the car, a sill bar is required on the pass side. I believe only for unibody cars like my Nova.

Ron

 

And, depending on the car, a sill bar is required on the pass side. I believe only for unibody cars like my Nova.

Ron

Ron, can you explain this? I don't remember ever reading about it in the rule book, is this for a 7.50-9.99 car?

 

I don't know if it applies to unibody cars. If I read it correctly I believe it applies to early "X" chassis cars with no side rail. Like the early impalas and corvettes.

 

Without running to get my rule book. As I remember it you only need a sill bar if the "stock" floor has been modified.

The selling point goes both ways. If it is a race car then yes a certified or certifyable cage would add value. If it is a street car a cage can hurt the value of the car if the buyer wants a street car or wants to make it "correct". Since he is looking at a 6pt cage I would think it is more of a street car.

The best advice anyone can give, is "Do your research and buy the bar or cage that fits your needs/goals".

 

The ruleboooks are only $10.00

You will be legal with a 6 point "rollbar" to 10.00 if you have not altered your floorboards or firewall from stock. 9.99 or faster require a rollcage with the front hoop as well as a chassis certification and a competition license.

If you are going to be racing a lot get the rulebook....Most things in there are based on common sense/saftey... Im sure the guys in the other lane will appreciate it :thumbsup:

 

In a Chevelle the rollbar mounts are required to go to the frame also, not a plate on the floorboard. Having said that, my loop and front supports go to the frame, the rear bars go thru the package tray to plates welded to the trunk floor just above the rear body mounts. I plan on going to Tulsa Oct. 28, we'll see what the tech experts have to say about that.