[aml396]

Somthing just occurred to me: could having hydraulic lifters set up without preload cause the low oil pressure?

the oil preasuure isnt low though...its like 100 lbs the second you start the drill or the car.If I have someone set these at zero like everyone suggets I do about how long should it take before this clattering stops ? If it doesnt stop where should I go next ? Im trying to avoid pulling the motor again and just dumping ot off at a mchine sop /engine builder with my pants down,Ive got around 4 grand in this "new motor" now.

 

[aml396]

>>> "what is your oppinion on this deal where its taking about 10 minutes to get oil up with the drill ?"

3 guesses, first two don't count. the groove in the bearing is too shallow to do anything much.

well if thats it then I suppose its time to take it out again , pull the cam out , and just have the groove macined in it. But Im still not understanding why not this problem with the old cam that had no groove .....maybe theyve just got the wrong F...ing bearing in it. Unbelieveable !! I spared no expense on this and this is the net

 

[Tom Mobley]

the radiator in my 57 Chevy pickup is out of a 66 Impala wagon with 396. Had a grooved cam when I tore down to convert it to 427. Ended up in a 67 Camaro, that was a good running car. The Isky cam I put in it was grooved out of the box, I ordered it from Isky for a 66 396. IIRC (it was in '85) they asked me what year the engine was.

 

[Tom Mobley]

if you set them at zero or .003 or whatever. there will always be random tapping, especially at cold starts. Don't do that, it's not the right way to do this. Put a half turn on all of them.

 

[aml396]

if you set them at zero or .003 or whatever. there will always be random tapping, especially at cold starts. Don't do that, it's not the right way to do this. Put a half turn on all of them.

ok so your saying to set them at zero and then try running it again? That could be the reason for the oil taking too long to get up there?

 

[BillK]

Al,
The noise should stop as soon as you see oil pressure on the guage. If you are going to reset them, go 1/2 turn like I said in my previous post. That is about what most performance cams manufacturers recommend anyway. I dont know of any that say to run them at "0" Anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn will run fine.

 

[swcash]

The clattering noise is from the valves not being set properly. Set them at 1/2 to 3/4 turn preload and they will shut up.
Sometimes it takes awhile to get good oil flow to the rockers when priming a new engine. You should rotate (move a quarter turn a few times) the crank by hand a little while priming.
You need the proper priming tool or you can modify an old distributor by removing the teeth from the drive gear and set the top of the shaft so it can be turned with a 1/2" drill motor.
Once you do get oil to the valves, on repeated starts they should get lubrication right away.
Have you changed the oil and filter after the initial run-in?
Squido :yes:

 

[aml396]

Al,
The noise should stop as soon as you see oil pressure on the guage. If you are going to reset them, go 1/2 turn like I said in my previous post. That is about what most performance cams manufacturers recommend anyway. I dont know of any that say to run them at "0" Anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn will run fine.

OK ...Im not sure what 1/2 turn or from whwre is or means so I will convey that to next guy to adjust

 

[Molly's 70]

Go 1/2 turn past zero lash.

 

[aml396]

The clattering noise is from the valves not being set properly. Set them at 1/2 to 3/4 turn preload and they will shut up.
Sometimes it takes awhile to get good oil flow to the rockers when priming a new engine. You should rotate (move a quarter turn a few times) the crank by hand a little while priming.
You need the proper priming tool or you can modify an old distributor by removing the teeth from the drive gear and set the top of the shaft so it can be turned with a 1/2" drill motor.
Once you do get oil to the valves, on repeated starts they should get lubrication right away.
Have you changed the oil and filter after the initial run-in?
Squido :yes:

yeah....we had the proper priming tool.wqe had the motor out because we thought we would have to change that cam or have it machine grooved.Then the guy who put the motor together came buy and pointed out that the old cam had no groove.He said..."put it back in and then we will prime again and then adjust and then run it" We did that but he set them at .003.Now the clattering again.The oil preassure is booming and the bottom sounds good. I dont know WTF the problem is with getting these adjusted right.I mean the guy was able to put the whole motor together and like I say there is no problem with the bottom but he's the one thats adjusting with feeler at .003.

So your saying to prime it again with the drill and priming tool turning the motor by hand a 1/4 turn periodically during prime. Then adjust the valves at 1/4 turn.Then run it again......right?
One thing Ive learned about mechanics generally....They ALL know it ALL and none of em EVER will say "I dont know...so maybe we should call or check with so and so"
Im a master carpenter who can build litterally anything...lotta custom wood frame houses and buildings and also build cabinets and furniture and I was kind of like that as a kid....no one could tell me anything....when I quit that attitude thats when I really started getting it.....,these guys though....I dont care what age they are ....it all the same S...H...I...T !!

 

[Molly's 70]

Prime the engine with your drill & have someone turn over the engine slowly by hand til oil is flowing on all the parts. Adjust your valves a 1/4 turn past zero lash, that is your preload. I would seriously consider having your camshaft grooved as stated above. Use the search function to learn more about how to adjust hydraulic lifters. Don't loose patience. There is lots of good help here. Keep your questions coming. :thumbsup:

 

[rkd]

Not much of a carpenter here, I refuse to make sawdust in my garage anymore. Not really a mechanic either, just have this stuff in the genes and cannot shake it off.

But, at this point, I would trace the block by number to try to determine whch one you have and how the oil is supposed to flow. Then make sure that by part number and description, you have the correct cam bearings and cam for the motor.

Setting up the lifters should not be that hard. I still go one at a time through the firing order. With the piston in the cylinder being set at tdc, I tighten the rocker nut until I feel the pushrods take some more pressure to rotate with fingers. Then go a half turn. Or 3/4 turn. That should be sufficient to start and run with no clattering.

 

[engineguy]

yeah....we had the proper priming tool.wqe had the motor out because we thought we would have to change that cam or have it machine grooved.Then the guy who put the motor together came buy and pointed out that the old cam had no groove.He said..."put it back in and then we will prime again and then adjust and then run it" We did that but he set them at .003.Now the clattering again.The oil preassure is booming and the bottom sounds good. I dont know WTF the problem is with getting these adjusted right.I mean the guy was able to put the whole motor together and like I say there is no problem with the bottom but he's the one thats adjusting with feeler at .003.

So your saying to prime it again with the drill and priming tool turning the motor by hand a 1/4 turn periodically during prime. Then adjust the valves at 1/4 turn.Then run it again......right?
One thing Ive learned about mechanics generally....They ALL know it ALL and none of em EVER will say "I dont know...so maybe we should call or check with so and so"
Im a master carpenter who can build litterally anything...lotta custom wood frame houses and buildings and also build cabinets and furniture and I was kind of like that as a kid....no one could tell me anything....when I quit that attitude thats when I really started getting it.....,these guys though....I dont care what age they are ....it all the same S...H...I...T !!

AL,

You need to listen to what we have been telling you since you first posted this problem. Setting hydraulic lifters at .003" lash is just plain wrong. You need to find someone to help you who knows how to adjust hydraulic lifters - otherwise you will have lifter clatter forever. Hydraulic lifters need to have preload, which is accomplished by turning the adjusting nut 1/4 turn (or more) after 0 lash!!

 

[swcash]

Since you have the engine running, an easy way to set the valves is to get a short length of hose about 3/8 to 1/2' ID. Use a socket on a breaker bar to turn the adjusting nut.
Get another person to help you hold the hose to your ear and the other end near the rocker arm you are adjusting. Slowly loosen the nut until you hear it clicking. Turn the nut clockwise slowly until no clicking is heard. You are now at zero lash. Slowly turn the nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise. The engine will slow down while you are tightening the nut, so do it as slow as need be to keep the engine from stalling. You can start at the first valve and work your way down the line or you can jump around. When you are finished no valves should be clicking or clacking.
Squido :yes:

 

[Aml383]

Since you have the engine running, an easy way to set the valves is to get a short length of hose about 3/8 to 1/2' ID. Use a socket on a breaker bar to turn the adjusting nut.
Get another person to help you hold the hose to your ear and the other end near the rocker arm you are adjusting. Slowly loosen the nut until you hear it clicking. Turn the nut clockwise slowly until no clicking is heard. You are now at zero lash. Slowly turn the nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise. The engine will slow down while you are tightening the nut, so do it as slow as need be to keep the engine from stalling. You can start at the first valve and work your way down the line or you can jump around. When you are finished no valves should be clicking or clacking.
Squido :yes:

Yep now it's been 11 years and we took the cam out 3 months ago lol
.and guess what??
No groove in the cam !
The guy who did the work on the block put the correct bearings in it for the 65 block .
He knew ALL about it.
I took the cam back to the guy who did the heads and sold me the cam and he machined the groove in the cam like he should have 11 years ago lol.
Put the cam back in and WAHLAH !
Oil is getting to the top of the motor.
.

 

[540 Olds]

There are many ways to adjust valves; I have found fastest/EASIEST way is, with engine running, loosen nut til you hear clacking; there will be NO DOUBT, then,,,tighten til clack goes away; DO NOT TURN 1/4 to 3/4 at this point!

Immediately move to next valve, loosen til clack, then tighten til stop. Continue this for ALL valves. Once finished all valves, shut engine off..NOW..go back and tighten each valve down 1/4 to 3/4 for whatever you want.

Doing it this way eliminates the time while oil is splashing all over the place, due to time required for lifter to adjust while running and tightening. If you do it as I've described, it'll start up and run fine..

This technique works for mw..

 

[540 Olds]

Frustrating; after writing that response I see this is another pre-historic thread, but .....that technique is still valid all these years later.

Glad to hear you got it oiling! Now adjust those valves and RUN it like you STOLE it.!!!