Did you read the tech sheet? It should be on there. I won't answer because different bases require different tape times for different manufacturers. For example: HOK solid bases require one hour, but their metallics and pearls, etc. require an intercoat clear (SG 100, which can be taped in as little as 30 minutes) to protect from tape lines and mistape marks. I think at the top of the Body Shop Forum it should read:

REFER TO PAINT MANUFACTURER'S TECH SHEETS FOR ALL DATA

Why the people selling the paint do not state this is beyond me. I've got experience, but let's be truthful most hobbiests are a tad lost at first.

 

Here's the tech sheet (I believe) and I don't see it on there. I rarely paint anything and I just wondered if there was a quick test. I'll just shoot a test panel and try it out.

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/nsn/Nason/fulbaseb-cbasecoat.pdf

 

Nason is not very generous with detailed data compared to others I see. Unfortunate. There is not even a recoat winow time on there. I don't spray Nason. I would call it one hour mininum but I'm a stickler for details so I would call and ask. Here's PPG's info for DBC, and HOK is just as detailed if not more.

Tape Time: 20 – 40 minutes at 70°F (21°C) Standard Mix
30 – 60 minutes at 70°F (21°C) with DX57​

If the basecoat color is allowed to dry more than 24 hours, it must be scuffed and new​

basecoat color applied.

 

Thanks Scott. I'll give them a call.

 

Ok. We painted the epoxy primer and wetsanded at 400. Everything looked good after we wetsanded the primer and then we wiped down with wax/degrease and we sprayed the color coat and got solvent pop. Should we skip the wax/degreaser and just tack down the parts? Everything looks great in primer, but the color coat is a mess. Temp is 60/ paint is Nason. Not great, but I've had good luck in the past. Ideas? How long to wait for the wax/degreaser to vent out?

 

Unseen diagnosis: Epoxy not fully cured, wax and grease penetrated it and did not fully evaporate. Wreaked havoc on your basecoat. I'm assuming you sanded the epoxy because of dust/dirt, poor finish? Epoxy is shot as a sealer right before topcoating with no sanding required. And no need to W&G after sealing...go right to base. I never sand sealer prior to paint. Aquascat, or waterborne W&G removers are not aggressive and would not cause the problems you encountered. W&G must be completely evaporated. Time to resand the base and reshoot. Do not use anything but Aquascat on fresh bases. I airbrush bikes and it is necessary. Regular cleaners will take the base right off and/or distrupt the metallics. Cleaner will sit for a while in cold temps till it's all airborne. Exercising restraint and practicing patience will elimainate many painting problems. Like I said, I can't see it but you'll have to rebase it anyway.

 

Thanks Scott. Here's a picture.

http://kscyclone.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Painting-with-Daniel/9930730_Qx3sM#677469530_s4FwF

 

Nice fisheyes. Well we know they are coming from somewhere. My friend just had a similar problem and his source was the oil/water separator. Your's may be the W&G remover as stated. Dirty rags, non-thorough wiping, etc. Anyhow, just wetsand and rebase. I'm not clear on your method of two toning. I usually blow one color on and let it overlap the next area. Let flash and then tape off next color. Your pic shows you will be tape butting colors together? Everything I see is primer except for last two pics of silver fisheyes?

 

I think I see a couple of potential problems, in one of the pictures you have a blue and white can with a black top, that looks close to the same thing I have silicone spray in.

I also see wd-40, thats also a bad one to have around where your painting.

One more thing, are you coming off your compressor directly into a filter then a rubber hose to the paint gun.

Oops one more, you aren't wearing a respirator over that stubble on your face are you.

Don't take this the wrong way, I'm only trying to help.

Rob

 

No, help away...

There's no silicone being sprayed in the shop. I have all kinds of crap in there, so not much hope of removing everything. I'm coming off my compressor to a filter and then to the rubber hose. There is another filter on the gun side - a small, screw in plastic one. If I need something else let me know.

That's not me and I've already told him he should have something better. We were headed for Alaska on our motorcycles this summer and he hit a deer south of Cody Wyoming and totaled his bike. So, we gathered up various pieces we're trying to get it back together for a motorcycle show in Galveston over Halloween.

 

Part of your problem might be your airline hookup.

Air compressors generate a lot of heat, so the air coming out of your compressor is pretty hot, so your putting hot air directly into your filter, this doesn't give it time to cool and turn to water, so, some moisture might be getting through your filter, maybe more then the last filter you have on the spray gun can capture.

You can't get rid of the water in air lines, you have to trap the water.

The more time painting the more your compressor runs and the more water you generate.

This should help a lot if you can do it.

If you could put in 10' or better yet up to 50' of something like 3/4'' black pipe.

So a couple of feet of flexible hose right out of the compressor, then into some black pipe, then into your filter, then into the rubber hose.

The pipe will cool off the hot air and turn it into water, so you want the black pipe at an angle going along the side of the wall, probably up as it leaves the compressor, then as the water cools it will go back into the bottom of the compressor.

I'll put up my drawing of the big picture, and if you look at that it will help give you an idea on how to go about it.

 

Here you go. http://www.1969supersport.com/draw1.html

Rob

 

It worked. I cut back on the reducer, added some hose and scrubbed the parts. I'll post some pics tomorrow. Thanks Scott and Rob!

 

Well, the green is done and we have moved onto the silver and we're having trouble.

Some quick background. After the fisheye problem, he ended up mixing the green wrong. It was supposed to be 8:1/2:4 to 8, but he mixed it like the primer at 4:1:1. It came out nice, no problems with the green. Now, we mixed up for the silver at the correct ratio. We mixed it 8:1/2:4 and shot it. It came out looking rough. It didn't lay down like the green did, it was bumpy. Using the same gun/same technique as the green. Any ideas as to why that could happen?

 

Best advice i can give is if you plan on two toning ,striping or using multi colors you have to use a good basecoat system. Diamont ,chroma base dry in 10-15 minutes and you can tape over them.

 

We thinned it out and it layed down nicely. Most of it's got two coats of clear and it's looking good. Nason paint, Harbor Freight gun and it's going to work (I think).