3:1 Ratio
92 + 92 + 92 + 110 = 386
386 Divided by 4 = 96.5

 

Check out this octane booster (attachment).
Maybe the only octane booster that works by adding full digits of octane to your fuel in a concentrated form. Just be careful using it.
I believe Kemco is especially good for borderline cars that sit on the edge of detonation like yours.
Do a search on this sight as well.



http://www.kemcooil.com/categories.php

 

Thanks for the info guys!

 

2x on the Kemco like Crhis stated.

The kemco should work with your setup and its a heck of a lot cheaper then running 4 gals of race fuel at what $6-7 a gal when 1 qt kemco is $10 when bought using 2 case discount and free shipping.

1qt kemco with 12 gals 93 fuel(20z kemco per gal treat rate) = approx 99 octain for an additonal $10 not an additional $25-$30 for 4 gals race fuel for only 96.5 octain which is a full 2.5 less octain then when using the kemco .

If this was a wild 13-14:0 comp 7-8 second ground pounder it might be better off witrh race fuel but since this is a 10:0 comp perf motor its a no brainder to me,the kemco gets you 2.5 more octane (kemco @ 99 vs 96.5 with race fuel) and is approx $15-20 cheaper then when using 4 gals race fuel for a lower octain mix.

Scott

 

Dan,i could not help but notice your running a fair amount caam (292/240 ish deg dur @.05) in a 350 which is a substantial amoiut of duration and i was wondering what base & total timing you were running?

I am asking this because i have found many people are not awrare of just how much base timing perf cams need esp one as hot as yours is in a farily small 350cid motor and they often are running th ebase timing retarde setting timing for only total of 36-38 deg toyally ignoring the base timing in the process which leaves a lot of fuel mileage and throttle responce below 3k rpm when total is fully in on the table not to mention the motor running hotter in traffic/at idle with retarded base timing too.

That cam could use at least 18-20 deg base timing in a 350 along with 18 deg mech in the dist allin by 2800 rpm for 36-38 total in yb 2800 rpm.

And for street you also need a vac adv which will help the 350 idle better with 240 deg dur @.o5 along with it also providing approx 14 deg additioal deg timing for better fuel mileage,cooler running motor at idle esp when @ engine speeds below 2800 rpm when the total isnt fully in yet ,and better throttle responce other then when going for WOT where the vac adv is momentarily deactivated untill the throttle is released from WO returning to adequate intake vacuum thus re-activating the vac adv.

Scott

 

Scott, the ignition system I am running is a Holley Pro Strip Anihilator. With this setup, the timing is controlled by the ignition box. The distributor is locked out and I can program whatever timing curve into the ignition box that I want. It was a couple years ago that I got it all set up so I cant remember for sure where I set it, but I think its at 16 degrees at idle and goes up to 38 degrees at 3000rpm. I have the exact curve graphed out somewhere in my garage and it is only a baseline setting to get the car moving. I have been doing the bodywork and paint the last couple years so I havent driven it much. I am finally about to have all the paint/body stuff done so I will be on the road again soon and I can play with the timing curve.

 

I have an excel spreadsheet that calculates it. If I could figure out how to post it, its yours.