[Maxx Levell]

Good Morning Jay,

After looking at my settings, it looks like I set the Idle at 900, and it runs just fine there.

I'm also attaching pics of my Initial Settings and AFR Targets...

My initial settings ran pretty good, but I haven't gotten a chance to check anything but the Idle since I set the AFR Targets. Hoping to run this weekend and see how they do...

 

[BigIke]

Thanks!

I'm going to contact FiTech, my handheld doesn't have the 'PWM/FCC' setting, maybe there is an update. I'm running an FCC, and lowered the PWM on anther screen. My RPM's are set to 7k from 8k, because the FCC 340lph pump is to small for my engine, i need to swap out a 450lph pump.

Definitely keep this thread updated, your the lone dude on the net using this setup with e85, and sharing results. Thanks dude.

 

[Maxx Levell]

Thanks Jay...I will continue to post what I learn, but I can assure you, I'm stumbling around blind in the wilderness at this point lol. Actually, I think it's going to work out ok in the end. I have quite a bit of data that I kept with the carb and such, including Density Altitude and weather data, so I should at least be able to make a decent comparative check. My issue, which folks need to take into consideration, is that mine is a track only car. I have no feedback to offer whatsoever on driveability, or efficiency, so what has worked for me, might not necessarily be ideal for cruising the local hot spot.

As for the PWM/FCC setting...that is untouched by me, as I have an Aeromotive A1000 pump that I'm running through one of Aeromotives EFI return style regulators. My fuel pump is run from a switch panel, and not controlled by the FiTech unit.

Also, I'm using the 1200 HP Power Adder unit. Not sure if that makes a difference on the handheld or not. It sounds like there are some tweaks and minor differences between the different units, but I have no idea what they are, as I'm the only person around my area that's running one of these, that I'm aware of. I'm positive there are others...we just don't run in the same circles apparently lol. I did speak to FiTech last week about the 2-step deal, and they said only the MeanStreet currently has an option for the 2-step use, and basically, it's a wire that connects to the switch and allows the system to run in closed loop so it's not constantly trying to adjust (learn). They did say that they are currently working on a software update for the 1200 unit to be able to do the same thing. The guy I spoke with told me to call back in about a month to check on the update.

My biggest issue is that my schedule, and the weather have not been cooperating, and I haven't been able to just go to a Test & Tune session and tweak the setup to where I want it to run. I think once I'm able to do that, I'll have some meaningful/real world feedback. It's not looking like this weekend is going to provide that opportunity either ...80% chance of rain on Saturday, but we'll see.

Hopefully, as others search the net, they'll find this thread and contribute their feedback.

 

[72much13]

Hi I just joined the forum. Interesting read. I've got a SBC 360 cu with an F1R ProCharger on E85. Currently in the process of freshening up my motor as we speak.
Also bought the new FiTech 1200 to hopefully replace my blow through carb set up.
Sounds like I may be dropping HP going to the FiTech but will like the capability to program my AFRs and not worry about that.
I'm running the Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump which I'm told should be more than enough. I hope. I'm running a boost referenced regulator return system. But will have to change the regulator to a EFI boost referenced return.
Will be following this forum for some good in put on the tune. As I learn on mine will try and add to it also.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
72much13

 

[BigIke]

Got mine running decent today.

Had a spark issue the other day, the timing light has been dim since i put the phasing rotor in. Well I wen to dry-fire to check timing and it stopped sparking. Traced all wires to the 7al3, good; swapped the Pro Power coil for my Mallory 2880, no fire; swapped my regular rotor and the spark was strong as hell. Damn rotor was basically new...

Started today and get IAC steps down around 5. I set timing to 30deg, verified with dry-fire. When i was running the engine (wo/timing), and it was 15deg... Timing this engine is a pain. Tried to advance it more, but the rotor is way out of phase, need to rotate grab another tooth.

The engine doesn't want to rev quickly yet, and when i let off it stumbles and dies. I'll give it another wack tomorrow...

Noticed that the passenger/right bank of header is much hotter than the driver/left side. 500deg vs 250... Maybe i need to put an o2 on the right bank...

Sorry for rambling.

 

[72much13]

Got mine running decent today.

Had a spark issue the other day, the timing light has been dim since i put the phasing rotor in. Well I wen to dry-fire to check timing and it stopped sparking. Traced all wires to the 7al3, good; swapped the Pro Power coil for my Mallory 2880, no fire; swapped my regular rotor and the spark was strong as hell. Damn rotor was basically new...

Started today and get IAC steps down around 5. I set timing to 30deg, verified with dry-fire. When i was running the engine (wo/timing), and it was 15deg... Timing this engine is a pain. Tried to advance it more, but the rotor is way out of phase, need to rotate grab another tooth.

The engine doesn't want to rev quickly yet, and when i let off it stumbles and dies. I'll give it another wack tomorrow...

Noticed that the passenger/right bank of header is much hotter than the driver/left side. 500deg vs 250... Maybe i need to put an o2 on the right bank...

Sorry for rambling.

BigIke when you put the rotor Phasing rotor in did you put a hole in the side or the top of the cap to see where your firing on your post. I put one in my distributor and cut a hole right in front of the number one post. Fired the car up to see where the phasing was. Stopped the motor adjusted so before I took timing out the spark was at the leading edge of the number one post then when timing came out it was just at the trailing edge of post. Works great but it took some trial and airs to get it right.

 

[73Eldo]

I would second drilling a hole in the cap to see for sure where you are. It doesn't have to be #1 either, to just check the phasing it can be any terminal, you just connect the timing light to which ever one you drilled the holes near. It is handy if its number one or 180 in your firing order so you can then also check timing without moving the probe but if one of those puts you against the firewall so you can't see anything it doesn't help so pick one you can see easily.

On my HEI I drilled holes on both sides and testing showed be there is only about 10* range either direction meaning at idle 18* I am just past the terminal. At 30 I should be pretty well centered. 40 I am just before it.

 

[BigIke]

Yeah, but with the phasing rotor, there was no fire, at the plug or the rotor tip. Took the cap off and rolled the engine, the coil jumped spark from my coil wire (at coil) to the shock tower.

Pic of when i found the rotor had completely failed me

This video was from Friday, it's running better now...

https://www.facebook.com/jay.eichenberg/videos/1440733932606598/

I'm tired of chasing timing with this darn 7al3, i'm going to install my spare 6al box and see what it is set at. Right now i'm straight up on 20deg advance with the 7al3. I'm betting that when i put the 6al in, it will either be perfect at 20deg or it will be around 30-40deg. I think this box has been messing with my mind for at least 4yrs...

 

[73Eldo]

What are we looking for in the picture?

 

[BigIke]

Junk phasing rotor

 

[DEEPNHOCK]

First post (FNG)....

Question for the guru's.......

Am running an MSD crank trigger, E-85, and a Novi 2000 supercharger. 383 cid. Air water intercooled.
I have the Pro software loaded in the old XP laptop (what a pita that was).. KLine drivers, too.

Here's my question...

What do I set the initial timing at?
MSD says that 'most' EFI units are set at 50 degree's and the computer takes care of the rest.
FiTech suggested 30 degree's (N/A) or less with supercharger.
I set mine at 26 degree's. Synched the cap. Checked with the 'puter and the timing light,
The FiTech (remote tech) said I should set it just like a distributor (!?!)...
Does the FiTech 'puter just start boost delay off the initial?
I have a return call waiting.....waiting.....waiting....

Thanks ahead of time...
DEEPNHOCK

 

[1fastBU]

Who is running E85 and Fitech units? What unit are you running? How is the tuning going? What is your engine combo?

Mine:

385 13:1 compression. Roller cam, Aluminum heads. MSD igition.

'70 Chevelle. 700R4. 3000 rpm stall. 4.10 gears.

Using Meanstreet.

Hey there, im running the 1200 unit and have been having so much trouble getting this thing going. Quick overview of the engine, 355 13:1 compression, dart heads .600 lift solid flat tappet cam 260 duration at .050 e85. Engine is brand new and never ran. First start up was terrible wouldnt idle long enough to set the timing. Next day got it running long enough just to set the timing. Did a fresh reset and set all parameters as per fitech tech support +30% CID and still has no hope of idling. Screwed the butterfly adjustment in reset tps to 0% and it would rev high and as it was coming down would gurgle and die out spitting fuel from the fitech (caught on fire 2 times) all while on the phone with fitech. The guy had no clue of what to tell me to do other than my cam didnt hold enough vacuum for the unit to self learn. I had the exact same part number cam in another motor and it held 10" of vacuum in park. From what ive read that should be more than enough to run their system. They told me to get out and drive it but i tried pulling it in my shop (about 50 feet of driving) and it died 3 times. What i can tell you is i have a rpm noise code and iac code. They are suspecting my distributor is creating noise (btw im controlling timing with a locked out speedmaster dist and msd 6al box and coil) and suggested that i switch to an hei and stop controlling timing with the fitech to get the fueling ironed out. The thing revs and is very peppy but after 10-15 seconds it starts flooding out. My AFR targets are what ive always shot for on a NA gasoline motor (added more cubic inch to make up the difference for e85) and it is just acting plain stupid. Im getting very frustrated and im ready to take this thing off and put a carb on it. Hoping with all of the knowledge here someone can give me some more insight than their "tech support"

 

[Adam Bedford]

I'm VERY happy to find this thread. I'm just about ready to try starting a 572 BBC that I just built from the ground up - every single part (including the screws) are brand spanking new. I'll be running the Fitech 1200 HP system on E85 exclusively.

I have to admit that I'm nervous - there are a LOT of firsts for me in this build - my first ever big block, first time tuning for E85, first time running fuel injection, first time running the ignition timing off an ECU, first time running a solid lifter cam, first time running roller lifters and rockers, first time running compression over 12:1, and the list goes on...

I don't mind spending lots of time getting the bugs worked out, but I've got a LOT of money in this build and can't afford to have anything catastrophic happen!

 

[73Eldo]

I would not try and run any of that stuff on a never been run engine. WAY too much that could go wrong and screw up your initial break in not to mention mask or confuse a basic mechanical issue. If you don't have a carb and stand alone ignition system I would try and get one, ideally one that is known to be working good. If you got some bucks invested into that motor it may even be worth trying to find an engine dyno shop to start it. They will have carbs and ignitions to get things going and would also likely be able to set up the EFI after the initial break in if you can afford the time.

 

[77sonic]

Good advice there on initial start up. Odds are there will be some issues getting the Fitech up and running the first time. Better that the engine can be fired and broken in without having to deal with potential injection related quirks.

 

[Adam Bedford]

I would not try and run any of that stuff on a never been run engine. WAY too much that could go wrong and screw up your initial break in not to mention mask or confuse a basic mechanical issue. If you don't have a carb and stand alone ignition system I would try and get one, ideally one that is known to be working good. If you got some bucks invested into that motor it may even be worth trying to find an engine dyno shop to start it. They will have carbs and ignitions to get things going and would also likely be able to set up the EFI after the initial break in if you can afford the time.

That's something that's been in the back of my mind as well. I did get it started today, but haven't spent much time fiddling with it. If I struggle to make progress, I'll definitely throw a carb on it along with some race gas and timing through the distributor only to get things stabilized before adding those back in one at a time down the road.

 

[69Chvll]

Bump. Just changed all the fuel lines, and I'm ready to try some e85. I'm going to try to adjust the AFR first rather than add 30% CID. I've got an e street 2 setup, so we will see how it likes it!


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[69Chvll]

I decided to try mixing before switching to a new map. Running E55 right now, pulls great and smells better too. It was running a bit lean at 5K RPM WOT, changed WOT AFR to 12 and works great.


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[69Chvll]

Octane mix comes out to 98!


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[cartwright454]

Does anyone know why i can'T set my AFR targets below 11.5? I have a 1200PA that i just switched over to E85 last night. I was trying to set my AFR targets lower but i cant go below 11.5. If i target the 11.5 at idle and off idle it is so pig rich it almost dies. I have it running on the normal gas scale with 25% Larger cubic inch entered. it seams to run great on the gas scale with 13.9 target at idle and 13.5 just off idle .

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Bill C

67 Camaro Street car
489 BBC
1200PA
dual Bosch 044 for efi
single Holley Black for NO2
320 aluminum heads
9.5 to 1 pistons.
.640 roller cam
annular discharge fogger system(running on E85)
Msd 6al
Fitech controlling timing.


Thanks for the help Bill C