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Evaluate my combo, Recommend a cam

2.2K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  Meatball  
#1 ·
Here is the plan, I have most of the pates for this build already in my garage. this will be a 100% street driven car, 71 SS clone 3500lb. I am willing to change Converter, rear gear, and tire size. I have been looking at cams for a long time and I want to go with a hyd flat tappet, I am partial to Lunati and Comp but open to suggestions. I was told to check out the Voodoo cam 60203 but I dont know if it will work with a 3.08 rear end gear, (I currently have a 3.73 so gear is actually a variable) I am thinking with the 3.08s I would keep the tires and converter but have to go to a cam that was more compatable with low end torque.

454 2 bolt block +.060 (on hand)
9.2 compression (variable)
stock 781 oval heads (on hand)
cast crank (on hand)
Heavy duty GM rods (on hand)
Forged pistons (Variable)
RPM Airgap manifold (Variable)
800cfm EPS Carb (Variable)
CAM:????????????????? This is the biggie
Turbo 400 (currently installed)
2000 RPM stall converter (currently installed)
3.08 rear end (variable)
26" tall 295/60 15s (currently installed)

I know some of you may be asking why the hd rods and forged pistons with a cast crank but simply put it is because that is what I have in my garage.

I am kind of hoping that somone with a similar combination will post up and do a little testifying as to their satisfaction with it.

Thanks,
Don
 
#16 ·
Look at Comp Cams XM278H-12 profile and apply P. Kelly's DCR to your combo. I ran that with 3.08's, Holley 830/Rpm Air Gap to a M22 in a 70Z. Best to use the .019" Shim gasket to get the Quench down to .044" and will increase Static compression to around 10:1.

What a combination and seriously thinking going back to it after running a SR for the last year. Amazing torque and easily revs to 6200 with the 925 springs plus the exhaust note is to die for ;o)

My SR could do with lower gears but then it would defeat my purposes; however, I'm considering keeping the SR and running 3.31's but man them 3.08's are nice cruising gears and that XM278H-12 delivers the torque for that get up and go - It's rather scary as there seemed to be no end to the top end - LOL.
 
#17 ·
Look at Comp Cams XM278H-12 profile and apply P. Kelly's DCR to your combo. I ran that with 3.08's, Holley 830/Rpm Air Gap to a M22 in a 70Z. Best to use the .019" Shim gasket to get the Quench down to .044" and will increase Static compression to around 10:1.

What a combination and seriously thinking going back to it after running a SR for the last year. Amazing torque and easily revs to 6200 with the 925 springs plus the exhaust note is to die for ;o)

My SR could do with lower gears but then it would defeat my purposes; however, I'm considering keeping the SR and running 3.31's but man them 3.08's are nice cruising gears and that XM278H-12 delivers the torque for that get up and go - It's rather scary as there seemed to be no end to the top end - LOL.
Thanks man I love all teh info. My old 71 Corvette had a 3:08 rear and I built the 461 engine around that, knowing I would need lots of low end torque, I used a CC XE256 cam but I always felt like I could have gone bigger, it only made about 8.7:1 and had peanut port heads but it was fun and did just fine below 5k RPM. Actually that combo came out pretty nice but i wanted to step it up for the Chevelle. I have alittle more means now so I would like to build it right. thanks for the help :thumbsup:
Don
 
#14 ·
My vote gets the Isky Mega 271/282 cam. Since your looking at possibly Pro-charging it has 114LSA and real good power to about 6000 in a 439.
 
#11 ·
now your talking ! BUT i still would not cam it anything over 240 @.050 .... and personally i would run 236 @.050 and .560-.570 lift .... its funny you figured out that your converter was to low ,and your heads could make more power with some work ,BUT you also need some compression as you step up the ladder .. MAY as well go 10.5 or so !
 
#9 ·
I have used this_cam in the past, only differance from your revised engine set up was 990 heads (unported rect. port) turbo 400, 3,000 stall (off the shelf), 12 bolt 3.73 gears.

"28 x "11.50 x "15 E/T Streets.

'69 Chevelle SS (full weight 3,850).

Best E.T. 12.20

Best M.P.H. 109

Switched to a mild crane solid roller:

Best E.T. 11.85

Best M.P.H. 115

No changes other than cam. Went from 12 to roughly 9.5-10 inch's of vacum in gear.
 
#12 ·
Interesting. I figured that the combo I was putting together had to be fairly common. Thanks for posting up ETs and MPHs, I always heard that ovals were better on the street but that seems to be becoming an old school idea.

Is that a CC DEH?

B/c if it is, it should be a dandy in a 9.2 to 1 CR'd engine as would Isky's old 264 Mega, imho..

The old Isky will probably have more grunt tho...... 214 vs 219 is all here...

pdq67
Not sure what you mean by CC DEH is it Closed Chamber D=? E=? Head? Help me out.
Heads are GM781 110cc but I will cc them to be sure of the chamber size.

now your talking ! BUT i still would not cam it anything over 240 @.050 .... and personally i would run 236 @.050 and .560-.570 lift .... its funny you figured out that your converter was to low ,and your heads could make more power with some work ,BUT you also need some compression as you step up the ladder .. MAY as well go 10.5 or so !
I have been reading alot and listening to youall's feedback, Popular Hot Rodding puts alot of readers rides in their mag and they always have a spec sheet to go with the cars, I dont see too many people running <2400 RPM converters or less than 3:73 gears. I think >10:1 would be too high for the heads, I want to avoid detonation. Now if I were able to pick up a pair of aluminum heads...........:D
 
#8 ·
OK, NEW plan, changes in bold

454 2 bolt block +.060 (on hand)
9.5 compression (variable)
stock 781 oval heads with larger 2.19/1.88 valves and bowl blending (on hand)
cast crank (on hand)
Heavy duty GM rods (on hand)
Forged pistons (Variable)
RPM Airgap manifold (Variable)
800cfm EPS Carb (Variable)
CAM:? Voodoo 268 (268/276, .542-.554)
Turbo 400 (currently installed)
3000 RPM stall converter (will purchase)
3.73 rear end (on hand)
26" tall 295/60 15s (currently installed)

So what about now? this doesnt seem too crazy a combo to me.
 
#7 ·
With the mild cam and gearing you need to be careful on cam selection, not only in terms of where you need the power, but also what it's "manners" will be idling at the stop light. The displacement will give you the performance, and a mild cam will allow it to make decent power to 5000 or so. Agreed, if you "step up" you'll need to re-evaluate the cam choice. For the current setup, a small cam will be an all around good choice.
 
#5 ·
Check out Comp's 11-209-3 with 275/283 adv., 219/229 .050, and .507/.531 lift, I think it would be a nice little cam for your combo.

Do you have stock valve springs on the heads? That might limit your cam choices as well. Of course a spring change could fix that easy enough.
I will put on whatever springs match the cam, thats not a big deal, I bought the long block from a local classifieds paper so I have no qualms about tossing the springs since I dont know what they are or their age. Thanks for the cam suggestion I will take a look.
 
#2 ·
With all the mild components your build is based upon (converter/gearing) I would be looking at no more than 215 degrees intake duration @ .050". Pick your poison, I would be recommending a cam also based on what your preferences are. Any time "most aggressive design to date" is in the cam description you have the potential for valvetrain noise, which you may or may not mind. I would also highly recommend having your lifter bores grooved to aid in break in and improved cam/lifter life.
 
#6 ·
With all the mild components your build is based upon (converter/gearing) I would be looking at no more than 215 degrees intake duration @ .050". Pick your poison, I would be recommending a cam also based on what your preferences are. Any time "most aggressive design to date" is in the cam description you have the potential for valvetrain noise, which you may or may not mind. I would also highly recommend having your lifter bores grooved to aid in break in and improved cam/lifter life.
Thanks, for the time being, I am going for dependability and performance, that to me means not going as crazy as possible (although I have my moments when I am thinking 'procharger'). I also want room to upgrade in the future, maybe stroke it? at that time I would likely put in a bigger cam, converter and gears.