When pulling the trans out of my car (manual) I usually put a support under the bell housing or oil pan to support the engine. I need to pull the trans but still be able to take the car off of the stands and roll it around due to limited shop space. Looking for recommendations on how to support the engine and still be able to roll the car around.
Engine Support
malibujason79
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When pulling the trans out of my car (manual) I usually put a support under the bell housing or oil pan to support the engine. I need to pull the trans but still be able to take the car off of the stands and roll it around due to limited shop space. Looking for recommendations on how to support the engine and still be able to roll the car around.
1968 Malibu Sport Coupe, 489c.i. 590hp 600tq, TCI 200r4 Freakshow 3,600 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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I've always done like you said but never had to move the car, anyway to make a temp cross brace similar to a trans brace across the frame?
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Have you seen the wheel dollies used to move vehicles? Put one under the oil pan with some wood on top.
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A board across the frame rails with some 3/8 bolts where the trans bolts go.
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A board across the frame rails with some 3/8 bolts where the trans bolts go.
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This.
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a 2x4 across the frame rails and some long bolts in the bell housing holes on the back of the block.
I wedge a two-by-four piece of wood between the block and the firewall. This is obviously with the cylinder heads off the engine block, but you can probably find a place on the firewall to do the same with the heads on the block.
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I've always used CPs method with 2 long bell housing bolts and a 2x4 across the frame rails.
That trick of squeezing something between the engine and firewall is new to me - great idea! Could you get that board across the middle somewhere? Seems it might be easier.
That trick of squeezing something between the engine and firewall is new to me - great idea! Could you get that board across the middle somewhere? Seems it might be easier.
IDK, maybe. But jamming it towards one side like I did, made it easier to reach.
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Is your engine fully hooked up, including the exhaust?
Whenever I pull just the trans, I leave the exhaust connected. It’s enough to hold the engine in place without tilting too much.
edit: forgot to add, make sure to pop off the distributor cap, just in case it leans a little more than you expect.
Whenever I pull just the trans, I leave the exhaust connected. It’s enough to hold the engine in place without tilting too much.
edit: forgot to add, make sure to pop off the distributor cap, just in case it leans a little more than you expect.
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If the engine is still connected to the motor mounts then they are carrying the majority of the engines weight. Using a 2x4 to wedge it however you do it or bolts through the wood isn't holding up any of that weight, it's just shifting it around some so there's no strain on the MM's.
So whatever you choose doesn't have to be that bulletproof or strong. I once used an industrial broom handle from frame rail to frame rail to hold the back of the trans when I had removed the trans crossmember temporarily.
So whatever you choose doesn't have to be that bulletproof or strong. I once used an industrial broom handle from frame rail to frame rail to hold the back of the trans when I had removed the trans crossmember temporarily.
Uhmm....... why?
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