You dont wetsand the base before clearing. If you do you will see sandscratches. If you NEED to sand the base, you can, but you need to recoat it before you clear.You don't need to sand in between coats of clear like with laquer. Put on three coats and you will have plenty of clear for a good cut and buff when its cured.

 

I think you accually have 24-48 hrs. I cant remember?
I would strongly sugest you go to the Dupont web site and download there instruction sheets.
They have them for every system and paint,then follow them to the letter.
Sometimes the counter person has NO expierence with painting.
Only what they have been told by others, good or bad?
Paint companys spend millions developing these systems, so I would go by there instructions.
Also if you are painting a metallic, you may want to paint the whole car at once?
I didnt have room to paint mine in one piece, so I painted it a solid color.
http://performancecoatings.dupont.com/bowstreet5/webengine/dpc/common/Controller
Hope this helps? T.C.

 

As said..using Croma-HAZE you need to clear coat it, in short window after aplaying your base coat.

Mix enough base to do the entire car. Then cut in,and piant each fender,door ,hood, trunk lid as you go..

 

For what it is worth, here is my experience in painting a car in pieces. I have etch primed and applied primer surfacer to separate pieces of my 65 malibu. Each door, the hood, the trunk, and the remainder of the shell were painted separately as time allowed. What I noticed with painting piece by piece is that you waste so much paint. If you paint only the door one day, there is all that overspray that is lost as you go past the edges. This would not be lost if the door was on the car. Then of course, I always had paint left over in the gun cup, sometimes a half a cup, which has such limited pot life you end up throwing it away.
Also, I just finished assembling the fenders and doors on the car to see how they will fit. I chipped some primer off each fender and door no matter how careful I was. It is difficult to align panels without paint, it is more time consuming and frustrating in paint.
I have decided to now assemble my car totally, align everything the way I want the pieces to fit, and then I will remove the primed doors only to make for better jambing around the hinges. I will then reattach the doors and spray the car as one piece in base and clear. I will use much less paint and get it done in one or two days, instead of spending weeks doing it piece by piece.
I am a novice at painting, so take my opinion with that in mind. But I now see the disadvantages of painting in pieces as being too much for me, so I will do base and clear as one piece. Good luck on your project.

 

You can go past the 24 hour window if you apply a coat of 222S or a fresh coat of basecoat prior to applying your clear. 222S has been around since the days of laquer and still suggested for use by Dupont with both Chromabase and Chromapremier. Wetsanding your basecoat is not a good idea unless you're trying to remove an imperfection (dirt, sag, run, etc.) then apply another coat or two of basecoat. Wetsanding your clear then reclearing does add depth and as sprayed gloss to the finished product only because you're applying more product in two stages so less solvent will be retained, and also the second application of clear will flow better than the first application over basecoat. House of Color recomends the two step clear (Flow Coat) and at least one Auto Maker is actually offering it as an option now--there definately is a better gloss doing a two step clear. If this is a metalic color definately paint the exterior assembled--JMO What clear will you be spraying? 7600? 7900?

 

The 7600...Would the 7900 be better. Another reason I asked about the time period is that I will be putting multi colored graphics on the car and I figured I would do the striping and then clear the whole thing. Would I be better off going with a single stage paint instead of the bc/cc system......thanks

 

Pardon me for horning in on BadBob's question...His comments are good. I like the added depth of the 2-step clearing.

Unless the 7600S has been reformulated recently, it is intended primarily for panel repairs due to it's fast drying characteristics. For complete paint jobs, it will not flow out as well as the 7900S nor will it have the depth even if you do the 2-step process. Additionally, to me, the 7900S sands and buffs much easier than 7600S.

If you are going to do graphics and/or stripes, using a single stage system will mean that you will have sharp lines at each of the color changes. You will have to use a clearcoat to "bury" the transitions or it will look rather fonky.

FWIW, for best results, I'd recommend you consider re-planning how and in what sequences you are going to paint your car.

 

If you decide to stay with Dupont BCCC suggest you consider your color in Duponts Chroma Premier I bot a pint of each the Chroma base and premier using metalic formula for test spray out and the premier was much richer looking and covered with far less coats ...7900s clear wet sanded the 2nd last coat of clear before final clear, then buff and polish

FWIW

 

The 7600...Would the 7900 be better. Another reason I asked about the time period is that I will be putting multi colored graphics on the car and I figured I would do the striping and then clear the whole thing. Would I be better off going with a single stage paint instead of the bc/cc system......

You can do your artwork in basecoat at leisure then when you're ready to clear apply a coat or two of 222S. I've done this for years with no problems, One time I did a very radical graphics job with major amounts of airbrush work that took me one month to complete (I should post a picture), the colors took weeks and weeks to apply working weeknights and weekends, when all of the color work was done I just sprayed it all down with 222S and applied the clear. You won't have any problems doing it this way. The 7600 is a panel or multi panel clear not designed for complete refinishing but if the conditions are right and you're fast with the gun it does work for completes. I've done it and know a few shops that use only 7600 for everything. 7900 seems to have more depth, better DOI and flow. I really miss the old 7500. ChromaPremier clears can also be applied over Chromabase but are suited to mostly heated/bake booth application. You can mix the hardeners fast, slow, to get the right combo to work with your spraying conditions. Bob

 

This is my first complete paint job and I don't want to have to do it again. I don't have any hands on experience other than spraying Imron or Centari and then only limited, not whole bodies. I can't afford to dish out $5000 for a paint job so here we are.Luckily I have a pretty straight body to work with. I just want to make sure I've got this right. I think I can do this myself or I want to tell myself I can. Maybe I'm in over my head. Let's make sure I have this straight. So I can paint the car with my base color, piece by piece, and then assemble, if I want. Lay out my graphics over my base color and spray the graphics without sanding the white. I want to use the base color as the pin striping in between the colors of the graphics. Then clear,(using 7900), the whole car after using the adhesion promoter(222S). Is this the proper procedure, or am I still missing something. If it is I am , as this would allow me to paint my car as time permits, at my leisure.I want to duplicate the paint job as is seen in my showroom http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/obseSSed I have stripped the body and have etch primed the panels and used urethane primer over that. Do I want to put a sealer in between the urethane primer and base coat or shouldn't I. Thanks for all the input. My hats off to all you body guys.

 

Let's make sure I have this straight. So I can paint the car with my base color, piece by piece, and then assemble,

You've got everything right except if I were doing it I would basecoat the jams and edges and panel undersides and apply clear, then assemble the car. Finalsand the exterior of all of the panels while on the car and then start applying your exterior basecoat. In other words- paint the interior edges, jambs, and panel undersides first and worry about doing the exterior after they are bolted on the car. It is very easy to booger up the basecoat when handling the panels during installation. Other than that you've got your proceedure down right, no need to sand the basecoat between applications unless there is dirt or a problem that needs to be removed. when all the basecoat is on make sure it is clean then apply some 222S and lay the clear to her. Spraying basecoat is much different than the imron and centari you've sprayed, with basecoat you just want thin smooth coats and don't look for a gloss to appear, the paint will dry flat. The true colors and depth appear after the clear is applied. Dupont basecoat is very forgiving and one of the easiest to apply IMO. No sealer should be needed unless you have some cut throughs in your primer. By the time you're done painting the jambs you'll have a good feel for what this stuff sprays like. The 222S is sprayed on similar to basecoat-a thin coat. Let us know how it goes-

Bob

 

Thanks Bob,and the rest of you guys, I'll keep you posted on how it goes ....hopefully well. http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/obseSSed

 

Can the DuPont chroma bc/cc be sprayed with a airless sprayer?

 

Another 19-1/2 year old thread resurrected from the dead!