Set the damper to TDC, doesn't matter which stroke. Adjust all the valves, with no preload. Turn engine over ONE turn to TDC again. Only adjust the rockers that are loose. Tighten all the valves down however much you feel is necessary to preload. You should be done. This only works with mild cams.

 

if you already adjusted the valves while building the engine you don't need to do it again.

you have the V/C off? turn the engine till the #1 intake opens and closes, next time the timing on the balancer comes up you're at TDC firing stroke of #1.

 

Here is my problem, I didn't adjust the valves while building the motor, and now I don't know when the intake on #1 opens and closes because I can't see the lifter with the intake on, so I can't even adjust it in the ballpark without having some idea of whether its open or closed at the time. and I would prefer to not have to pull the intake if I can.

 

If the distributor was installed properly then all you need to do is rotate the engine until the the timing marks align and see if the rotor is pointed to the number one position. If not, rotate the engine one more revolution. If the distributor isn't in yet you still should be able to see the rocker arms move without having to see the lifters. No need to take the intake off. Good luck.

 

I held off for installing the distributor because I was going to prime the oil before I fire it up, so I didnt bother to install it, just to have to remove it again.

Ok, here's what you do. Back all the nuts off so that the rockers are all loose. Now when you spin the engine by hand you can watch the PUSHRODS move. Start with #1 cylinder and watch for the intake pushrod to go up and then start to go down. Now set the exhaust rocker until all of the VERTICAL movement is out of the pushrod and then pre load it. Spin the engine until the exhaust pushrod starts to move up. Now set the intake the same way. Work your way around the engine and you are done.

okay sweet! that will work, I didn't know if I would be able to see the pushrods move enough to judge it, but that does make sense. Thanks!

 

Ok, here's what you do. Back all the nuts off so that the rockers are all loose. Now when you spin the engine by hand you can watch the PUSHRODS move. Start with #1 cylinder and watch for the intake pushrod to go up and then start to go down. Now set the exhaust rocker until all of the VERTICAL movement is out of the pushrod and then pre load it. Spin the engine until the exhaust pushrod starts to move up. Now set the intake the same way. Work your way around the engine and you are done.

 

What I do with a stock or very mild hyd lifter cam is make temporary chalk marks on the balancer at approx 90 intervals from zero. Get the balancer to 0 at the #1 cyl firing position and adjust both #1 rockers to zero lash plus 1/2 turn preload. Then turn the engine by hand (with plugs out) 90 degrees and adjust #8 cyl both rockers, then turn 90 deg and adjust #4. Follow the firing order and turn engine 90 degrees after each time.

 

What do you consider to be a "very mild hyd", mine is a Lunati Voodoo 60102,
262*/268*, 219/227 @ 0.050, 0.468"/0.489", 112 LSA, 108 ICL

 

I don't think it would be a good idea to do it the GM manual way, in 90° increments. Your cam is in a much tighter LSA, and the durations are longer than stock, there's a chance some of the lifters won't be on the lobe base circles if you do it this way.

 

Okay, that is good to know, would you recommend just going around the motor and watching the pushrods like Ray suggested?

 

I have seen a lot of engines wrecked with 0, 90 deg deal. Guys loose there place and adjust the wrong valves, etc. I am a little lost, in your first post you said you know how to do the EO/IC method. You don’t need any TDC references to do it that way.

IMO pull both valve covers and all 8 spark plugs, adjust using the EO/IC method then you will know 100% that they are all set correct and you will be ready to go.

Use a paint pen to mark each valve as you get it adjusted, that way you will not get lost on them.


Keith

 

Yep with that cam I'd use the EO/IC method and be safe.

 

The reason I'm not able to do the EO/IC method like I usually would is because i didn't know when the valves were opening or closing, because there was no adjustment at all on the rockers and I can't see the lifters. But now that I realize I can just watch the pushrod (duh :clonk: ) that is how I will do it.

 

Just curious, on a new motor/cam install, using the EO/IC method, don't you run the risk of wiping the cam lube off the lobes? Only reason I mention it is I'm kind'a in the same boat ( new heads and cam ). Al

 

Naa, you're just rubbing it in..... or rearranging it.

 

Hi Steve. Are you making progress?
Need any more help?