[66Malibu]

I'm at my wits end trying to get the driver's door to latch consistently. Car is a 66 hardtop coupe. I've searched the forum, and tried some of the ideas, but still having bad luck.

When I got the car (before restoration) the door would either latch on the first latch (not completely latch) or not at all and then bounce open. The weatherstrip was either missing or it was the original, so flattened out with age (I can't remember, it's been so long). After the resto, and I would have thought that the bodyshop would fix this problem, it was no better. Has new weatherstripping, but seems pretty soft. I don't think the weatherstrip is the issue. At first, I spent hours and hours adjusting the striker (in, out, up, down, microadjustments, etc.), but to no avail. Then I took someone's suggestion and removed the latch and soaked and cleaned it all out, inspected it (all springs seem good, nothing broken) and oiled all moving parts. No help. I've adjusted the rear and door glass to make sure the rear glass wasn't preventing the door from closing, also to prevent door glass from being too far inward at top.

Door is level, not sagging, however it doesn't close flush with the rear quarter, sticking out over 1/8th inch. But I can push it inward so that it's flush. I think at some point the weatherstrip was off, and the door still wouldn't always latch completely. Also, the hard rubber bumpers were removed to see if that was the problem (maybe it needs those to work properly????).

At this point, the top of the door window is adjusted outward so that it doesn't even seal against the rubber. Also, I've adjusted the wing frame to make sure it's not inward too far. If I use just the right touch, maybe use some slight upward pressure as I close the door, about half the time it will latch completely, otherwise it either bounces open or catches only on the first latch.

I'd take it to a body shop and just pay them whatever to fix it, but their hours are the same as my working hours, so that's a pain.

Sorry this is so long, but I'm going crazy with this. As good as the car looks now, it feels like a beater when I go to shut the door and it bounces back open!! And I am NOT putting my door panel and rear seat back in until this is fixed!!

 

[harleythumper]

I had the same problem with my 64 Malibu SS. It drove me crazy too. It turned out to be a bad latch (even though the old one seemed to function fine).

 

[Burbank SS]

The door latch was a real problem for me. I had a dickens of a time getting a good latch for my 64. The one currently (finally) available is called out for a 66 Pontiac if I recall. It works, but functions a little different. On a 64, when the door is locked and you pull up on the interior handle, the door unlocks and opens. On the new latch, you have to pull up the knob to open the door. The geometry is correct. Repros are available. Old Car Network has them listed as does True Connections and Ground Up.

Save yourself grief, get one.

In the past I've bought used latches, but some of them show up with weak or broken springs. There is one spring that causes all the trouble. If it is weak, it will not latch reliably, and if it is broken, it will hardly ever latch. You get the bounce you describe. It's tricky, because as harleythumper says, a lot of times it looks like the old one works, but in reality it's weak.

Seems to me someone should be able to figure out how to rebuild these. Should be able to grind off the rivet head, get a new spring in, and stamp a new rivet. No one does that I know of.

 

[harleythumper]

I used a repo for a 65. It works.

 

[65cayne]

...Should be able to grind off the rivet head, get a new spring in, and stamp a new rivet. No one does that I know of...

That's exactly what I did only I put a spot weld where the rivet head was. Those latches are a pita when a spring fails.

My 65 bisc had the same "bounce" he mentioned and I had a broken spring. The main "catch" was good, what was broke was a spring that pushed down on the little arm that held the main catch when it engaged on the striker. Hope that makes sense.

Rebuilding wasn't so bad (they are complicated little buggers though), it was finding the correct spring to work.

 

[66Malibu]

Thank you all. Looks like the consensus is to try a new latch. I'll be ordering one ASAP.

 

[Burbank SS]

I've got a repop in my garage that I bought from OPGI years ago that they said would work on a 64 "with minor modification." Never could figure out what the modification would be, because the entire area where the exterior handle would have to contact was different. I guess it would make a good donor for trying to rebuild one.

Now that new latches that work are available, it may not be worth the effort.

 

[crazy canuck]

One other thing to check is the striker itself.There are spacers or washers and this will set how the striker sits in the latch,sometimes it can bind in the latch and cause the problem you have.

 

[66Malibu]

I ordered a new latch on Friday and it should arrive before next weekend. Hope it solves the problem.

I did try removing one of the washers behind the striker to see if that helped, but it didn't. I even tried putting paint on the latch and closing the door while it was still wet to see the "mark" on the striker and see where it lined up (kind of like blueing machined parts). I coudn't detect any problem there. Seemed to line up fine.

I paid $55 for a repop from CPU, most places wanted about $70, and one place wanted $109 (for a repop). Quite a difference in price. I wonder if the quality is the same and if they actually come from the same distributor anyway. I'd gladly pay the higher price if I knew the quality was better, but not knowing, I'd rather get the one that costs less.

 

[66Malibu]

Well, it took over two weeks for the latch to arrive and I finally got a chance this past weekend to install it.
Problem fixed!!!:hurray: What a relief to finally have a door that doesn't bounce back open when I shut it. I was also able to move the striker in so that when the door is closed, it lines up better with the quarter panel.
It's wierd because the old part seems fine, with no broken springs or other apparent damage, but maybe the springs are weak - guess I'll never really know.

Thanks to everyone who replied and for the suggestions to replace the latch!

 

[Burbank SS]

My latch was backordered MONTHS! I'm glad you got yours quickly. For a long time, no one even listed a latch for a 64/65. I don't remember about 66.

Yea, after fighting a bad latch, when the new one is in and the door closed right it can bring tears to your eyes!