IMO the 47* total is doing more damage than backing it down to 34-36*.

47? YIKES!!!

I used to run way too fast for my class for a few years & what I did to slow down was to lower my shift points to accommodate the class.

It may take a few runs to figure out the new shift points for the ET you want but your engine will last forever.

ex: my old 400 sbc shifted @ 7200 would run 11 flat ALL day...but to stay in the 12.00 class I had to shift it @ 5500. That motor was raced for 10+ years & is street raced by the new owner to this day! thats 20+ years on that 400sb.

He even runs a good size shot of spray on it too! Runs deep 10's.

 

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2x,Dans right on,no need to detune to run slower.

Or as suggestion to change throttle bracket position or to fab an adjustable throttle stop.

Scott

 

X2...you'd be amazed how much lowering the shift points will slow you down.

 

Leave the engine alone, adjust the throttle linkage so the secondaries don't fully open, and or leave the shifter in drive, leave the line at idle, etc.

 

Doesn't seem like I could go much lower on the shift point - its already at 5,000 and isn't a high RPM motor. Suppose I could go to 4,000 and see the difference. I've talked to a guy with a 598 who tried to slow down his son's camaro to run 11.70 for the high school class by limiting throttle travel, but couldn't do it consistently.

I have a timing retard knob for the 6AL box, so thats why I was leaning towards that, as it can be changed from the drivers seat, even if still in - in both quicker and slower classes. Part of the reason for the advanced timing is that the Air Density is usually 9-10000 ft, though a little better in the fall.

It wouldn't seem that anything mechancial would be hurt by retarding the timing, as long as done consistently. Wouldn't have to raise the hood, just reach for the dial-in for the window.

 

I think it may just make it run hotter.

 

I think I'll try lowering the shift point. Been told by a local source that retarding the timing can make a motor detonate just as having it too far advanced can. The shift point can be changed easily enough, and then back for the quicker class.

I've received some responses of disblief from local racers as many can't imagine trying to make a car run slower instead of the reverse.

thanks for the input.

 

can't hurt the motor running retarded timing. u have the knob in ur car so it's not like you have to wrench at all. i think thats the easiest thing to do.

 

Excessively retarded timing will cook your headers and burn up your high temp coating.

 

I'd fab a simple adjustable throttle stop for your carb.

 

move your throttle bracket forward a little so you don't have WOT
That'll slow you down :yes:

ooops...just noticed Marshall already suggested that

 

Went out to run in both classes tonite, and left the nitrous at home as I didn't want run 2 seconds apart between classes. Went 13.5's with 47 degrees timing and 14.1's with 40 degrees - shows how sensitive the BBC is to timing. Won two rounds in the quicker class, and three rounds in the slower class.

Just dialed the timing back and forth with the adjustable knob from the drivers seat. I was still in, in the slower class and decided to call it a night. Car seems to run more consistently without the nitrous, but not as interesting. I told the gal at the time shack to polish up a trophy for me anyway.

Thanks for the help on this. I'd call it an overall success, especially if I"d run the number one more time in the quicker class.

 

Retarding the timing will make your headers turn cherry red and may burn the exhaust valves. 34 to 36 should be normal and retarded should be less than 28.