[Dean]

The code won't be on the Ignition it's on the Door Cylinders.

Don't know about 68's but the ignitions on the column, the code is on the ignition locks (unless they have been replaced with after market lock cylinders.)
The code on his door lock is not in the book.(close but no cigar)

 

[RAMBO]

Got the ignition cylinder out. Has the same code that the door cylinder had.

Happens that i have a new ac Delco ignition cylinder for a 66 here to compare and could see how the little side notch gets retracted in flush when the key is inserted and it sticks out when no key is in (or the wrong key)

In mine, with my worn out key, it's not completely flush... And with the newer copy that won't turn it it sticks out even further. Explains my issues with both keys.

Hopefully Dean can find my code under the 67 numbers or 69 numbers (said it wasn't listed in 68 codes) or I'll be buying new ones...

 

[yanniziomas]

AAA will do it.

Couple of months ago my Buick key snapped in half and AAA sent one of the mobile locksmiths to our house and they made us a key.

 

[Dean]

I guess one of the problems using the code might be
"is the lock original"

68's use key blanks with different keyways than other years.

My book only goes back to 67

 

[RAMBO]

I guess one of the problems using the code might be
"is the lock original"

68's use key blanks with different keyways than other years.

My book only goes back to 67

I was just referring to the 66 lock cylinder for how it behaved with a correct key vs mine with the worn out key & the copy... and also just because i happened to have it here... it has nothing to do with this car.

I don't believe that the door and iginition keys were changed on this car... the little keyway on the door lock is present meaning its not a repop, and the key has the "C" code which is correct for a 68, and the door locks & retainers showed no signs of having been apart before.

No biggie- now that I have the ignition cylinder out, i'll take it to a locksmith and have them take the tumblers out and figure out what it is that way.

Since i have to go that route, maybe I'll pull the trunk lock out and see if they can rekey it to match so the car will only need one key...

 

[Dean]

:thumbsup:

 

[Billrv7]

I have an Octagon Briggs & Stratton key that fits the doors, trunk, and glove box -- well worn and looks like the original key. The ignition switch uses a different key. Is that normal?

I have three complete ignition switches in spare instrument bezels that I don't have keys to, so I can't switch to the ACC position to remove them. I am planning to take them to a locksmith to get them removed. Question, can a locksmith change the lock tumblers in those old ignition switches to match the ones I have in the doors and trunk?

All the best,

Bill
1964 Chevelle SS restoration project
Lees Summit, Missouri

 

[Dean]

I don't know much about 64's but I'm sure any good locksmith can do that.
My cousin, (May he R.I.P) who I got my stuff from had all kinds of tumblers and did that quite often.
Is there a good locksmith near you?


PS: Are you and Patty going on the tour and to lunch with us Saturday?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/328278119565/

 

[Billrv7]

I don't know much about 64's but I'm sure any good locksmith can do that.
My cousin, (May he R.I.P) who I got my stuff from had all kinds of tumblers and did that quite often.
Is there a good locksmith near you?


PS: Are you and Patty going on the tour and to lunch with us Saturday?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/328278119565/

Dean,

That sounds like fun, but won't be able to make it. I am having fun working on the project again and trying to steer clear of obstacles. We do enjoy going to the MACC meetings.

All the best,

Bill

 

[oldcutlass]

Hey Ben, Joe Padavano on Classic Olds can probably do it for you.

 

[RAMBO]

Just thought I'd follow this up... A friend referred me to a local "old school" locksmith, I stopped by a bit ago. He found my code in his computer listed as a 1968 corvette... said it didn't even list a 1968 chevelle...weird. anyway- cut me a new master from the code, Worked in my two locks much better than my original. He cut me two copies from the master and they work smooth as silk, better than the master!

All in all very pleased, and glad to put my $$ into a local craftsmans hands and keep original parts instead of buying chinesium replacements.

Cost was $25 out the door for the code cut master & two copies.

 

[dyno jonn]

That's great!! Now you can honestly tell people you have Corvette parts in your Chevelle. Will make it worth lots more when it comes to sell it.

 

[dell72]

Just thought I'd follow this up... A friend referred me to a local "old school" locksmith, I stopped by a bit ago. He found my code in his computer, cut me a new master from the code, Worked in my two locks much better than my original. He cut me two copies from the master and they work smooth as silk. All in all very pleased, and glad to put my $$ into a local craftsman's hands

I did the same thing for my 68 Chevelle this past week. My original key worked but it was so worn out that it would fall out of the ignition lock cylinder A local locksmith cut the new key was cut from the original code found on the door lock cylinder. The new key works great and the key no longer falls out of the ignition lock cylinder.

 

[Jim's69Ragtop]

Resurrecting this old thread as I've run into problems trying to get duplicates made on my '69. Few months back, I purchased some "original" GM key blanks via a seller on Amazon. Found a lot of places won't cut keys if you bring your own blanks, but my local Ace H/W was willing. The square ignition key duplicated without issue, but two different people tried to cut the trunk/glovebox key, and neither works. The one they were trying to duplicate works easily, without issue. They're thinking the blank doesn't have enough metal to create one of the "peaks" on the original. They compared my blanks to one they had and they looked similar, so not sure if that's the actual issue.

In reading through this thread, I'm thinking I should try an actual locksmith and use the key code vs. duplicating what I have? Are the key codes easily accessible on either the trunk or glovebox?

Thanks in advance -

 

[Jus-Cruisin]

Resurrecting this old thread as I've run into problems trying to get duplicates made on my '69. Few months back, I purchased some "original" GM key blanks via a seller on Amazon. Found a lot of places won't cut keys if you bring your own blanks, but my local Ace H/W was willing. The square ignition key duplicated without issue, but two different people tried to cut the trunk/glovebox key, and neither works. The one they were trying to duplicate works easily, without issue. They're thinking the blank doesn't have enough metal to create one of the "peaks" on the original. They compared my blanks to one they had and they looked similar, so not sure if that's the actual issue.

In reading through this thread, I'm thinking I should try an actual locksmith and use the key code vs. duplicating what I have? Are the key codes easily accessible on either the trunk or glovebox?

Thanks in advance -

Make sure the letter stamped on the blanks is the same as the original, like The A and H on these.

 

[Jim's69Ragtop]

Make sure the letter stamped on the blanks is the same as the original, like The A and H on these.

Thanks for your response...yes, matches the original codes as well as other references. For '69, it should be "E" for the ignition and "H" for the glovebox/trunk.

In reading other threads, my best bet might be to get the 4 digit code off of the glove box or trunk and have a locksmith cut a new key that way.