Want to build a 400 SBC Dart SHP block based engine.....but looking for a good starting point, i.e. an assembled short block. Its going to be a mild build for a C3 Corvette. Any recommendations on where to go?
Dart SHP Short Block
CorvettePassion
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Want to build a 400 SBC Dart SHP block based engine.....but looking for a good starting point, i.e. an assembled short block. Its going to be a mild build for a C3 Corvette. Any recommendations on where to go?
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I am selling my VortecPro 408.....and replacing it with my own build. Anyone have any experience with CNC Motorsports, Skip White, Tristar.....or anyone else to buy a 400 Dart SHP short block.
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Bill
If you knew the whole long sad story.....you may understand. Mark Jones is aware of all of it. The oil consumption issues are more than likely resolved with a new intake, and oil pan / windage tray....but Mark believes the Johnson lifters pump too much oil to the top end of this engine....but he chose to install them. I am left now with trying to fix it....but have been told all the solutions are simple.....and its just me. Not the engine.....me. I don't know what else to say, but I do know that I am not planning on trying to convince ANYONE about what I want to do. The long block is for sale,....I am starting over.
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I have been told by a person I trust well....to stay as far away from Shafiroff as I can. Many engine builders that once were good are now staffed with rookies and young people who don't have the experience .....or just people trying to make as much money versus providing quality. Thanks anyways.
I have been following your story on another page and I understand. Your mind is made up and I wont try to change it.
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CNC Motorsports are good people. Competition products has Dart assembled short blocks that were quality and reasonable priced. That was several years ago and I don’t know if anything has changed.
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Thanks for the idea.....but I have ZERO interest in ruining my C3 Corvette with an LS engine.
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Pittsburgh PA......I don't know any engine builders that I have any knowledge or experience with. CJ Rumbold is north of Pittsburgh....found them with Google....all I know is they say they are great. That means nothing. Mark Jones has a great reputation,...but I ended up with problems anyways. So....I have no idea who to trust or believe in. Its almost enough to make me sell the car and forget about all of it.
65 Malibu SS, 406, AFR 195, Jones custom HR, Performer RPM, Q-jet, Richmond 4+1, 3.08
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1968 Malibu Sport Coupe, 489c.i. 590hp 600tq, TCI 200r4 Freakshow 3,600 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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A good friend has an ATK 355 with a pro charger in his HS 77? Camaro now for over 7-8 yrs and loves it, maybe something like that? or BP 383 or more cubes
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If you're not careful you're gonna end up like a guy I know of with more money than he knows what to do with, but no one answers the phone when he calls to spend $200k on a turn key Top Dragster.
I know where there's a sweet 400 sbc, Motown raised cam block with all the goodies, billet oil pump, scat crank and rods, cheap! I did for a guy a year ago.
That's two guys who've done good business for years, you've trashed. I'm gonna pass.
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I guess I am just lucky then.
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Got my rotating assembly from CNC Motorsports. Good guys to deal with.
Is your 408 on pcv system?
I found a thread on another forum z28
I’m assuming is yours. Have you completely removed the pcv system?
on my engine the pcv wegner adjustable failed open after about 1000 miles. Thing was smoking like a old steam engine.only for a couple minutes before I noticed. I removed the pcv, plugged the intake port installed a catch can with a breather, and the smoke stopped. It’s been good ever since.
I’m running a crank scraper and windage tray. The pcv needs to be set to the amount of vacuum you engine produces.
Block out the noise of people blaming you. If you paid for a complete engine to be built. Short blocks have to many variables.
Is your 408 on pcv system?
I found a thread on another forum z28
I’m assuming is yours. Have you completely removed the pcv system?
on my engine the pcv wegner adjustable failed open after about 1000 miles. Thing was smoking like a old steam engine.only for a couple minutes before I noticed. I removed the pcv, plugged the intake port installed a catch can with a breather, and the smoke stopped. It’s been good ever since.
I’m running a crank scraper and windage tray. The pcv needs to be set to the amount of vacuum you engine produces.
Block out the noise of people blaming you. If you paid for a complete engine to be built. Short blocks have to many variables.
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I did have the Wagner PCV in the plumbing, and was sucking oil there, confirmed by placing a clear fuel fitler in the hose. But then I removed it and the next 500 miles....still oil in the intake ports, confirmed with borescope. So I had multiple problems. And I don't believe in running the car without a PCV.....there are many documented downsides to that.
Thanks for the input.
I have learned what I need to learn....and the engine is most likely sold, so I am done with it. Moving on to the next chapter.
65 Malibu SS, 406, AFR 195, Jones custom HR, Performer RPM, Q-jet, Richmond 4+1, 3.08
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OP, I feel your pain. I have a freshly machined block by a competition machine shop, brand new AFR heads and Edelbrock intake and am getting oil in the intake ports too. Manifold was checked with feeler gauges, all equal. new gaskets installed and still sucking oil. She's coming back apart soon. I will start a new thread on my findings and don't want to hijack this one. Just wanted to let you know, you ain't alone
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Dont pull it apart and I will tell you why. If ptfe paste sealent was used on intake rocker studs, I will almost bet thats where your oil leak is.
I just finished breaking in my 327 with trick flow aluminum heads and was ready to yank the engine because of oil fouling of the plugs. So before I got carried away. I pulled a plug and it just happened that valve was open. I could see just a small enough drip coming off lower side of intake valve I knew it was either intake gasket or valve seal.. Thats a big nope it was neither.. I then put my scope down the intake and saw it was dripping from rocker studs. I have always used PTFE on these and never had an issue, except on this engine
So I pulled out one intake stud and it looked like all the sealent was completely sucked out. Must have happened in a heating and cooling cycle with different rates of expansion between metals.
So I wound up getting some HIGH temp thread tape and used it... ZERO issues since
And then I looked at the trick flow manual and the actually suggest tape and not paste sealant.
Anyway, Its worth a check of the studs with aluminum heads. No harder than adjusting a valve and a lot less work than discovering after tear down, thats all it was.
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