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Clear coating a galvanized frame

9.4K views 24 replies 17 participants last post by  OCTO13ER  
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

I just pulled the body off of the frame of my 65 2 door wagon over the weekend, and I'm getting ready to strip it down for galvanizing. My first question; Would it be crazy to get it back from the galvanizer and clear-coat it, versus painting it? Would the clear coat chip easier than paint? I haven't heard of anyone doing this, (I did do a significant search in the forums). Would I end up regretting this? I just think how clean and shiny it looks. Second question; Are there any particular places on the frame that should be triple checked as far as straightness, welds, before I have it dipped? I love this website, I've never done an off-frame resto before, but I have tons of confidence in myself due to this website now. thanks to all that help out and give excellent advice!! :beers:
 
#25 ·
Hey guys,
First post here and it's fitting it would be about galvanizing. I know a little more about galvanizing than average Joe having worked for a time in the industry.

I can tell you that metalurgical bond occuring between the zinc and the steel is promoted by oxidation. Meaning if the galvanized coating is left open to the elements it will better protect the steel beneath it.

However, it is often desired to paint galvanizing because the "white rust" (zinc turns white when it oxidizes, iron turns red when it oxidizes), can become unsightly over time. Paint is especially desired where aesthetics are concerned. For premium paint adhesion to galvanized coatings an acid etch primer is recommended.

I would not recommend a clear-coat application to galvanized coating in a situation where aesthetics is of importance.

Adrian
 
#24 ·
Has anybody had their frame dipped and e-coated? How do you think that would last after it was painted for a boxed frame?
 
#21 ·
I galvanized my frame too. Cost was next to nothing for me, but it does seem to vary substantially around the country.

I got lucky, and found a place ~45 miles from me. That’s the hardest part, finding someone to do it. This was Witt Galvanizing in Indiana. Flat rate was $150 for first 200#. I had a trailer and truck-full galvanized at once, slightly exceeded the 200# … and walked out the door for $167. My frame and parts were pretty clean to start with, so they didn’t require me to blast anything. Guys there said they wouldn’t anyhow, just an extra dip in the acid tank.

The finish … WOW, to each their own, but I would strongly suggest against clear coating!! It is shiny, but nothing smooth. There will be a fair amount of zinc slag, and just general looking puddles. Each will be different, but it definitely won’t be smooth. Basically think of any guard rail or fence post … generally alright, but still a fair amount of slag if you look close.

As far as I can tell any Latex Primer will go over galvanizing. You can get that anywhere. Cost is usually about $25/gal. I used Valspar VP50 Epoxy, and I think that’s the only Epoxy Primer called out for galvanized anymore. VP is about $150/gal (with 1:1 catalyst). I used 2 gal, and have covered so much of the car with the stuff … and it’s on there thick.

Price comparison … powder coating runs $600-1000 in my area for only a bare frame. I galvanized my core support, inner fenders, bumper brackets, front/rear control arms, a bunch of misc brackets. There was a LOT I did for ~$500.

Anyhow, for a restored show car … I wouldn’t advice someone to galvanizing. Anything else, definitely check it out.
Neal
 
#20 ·
Keep in mind, the main benefit of galvanizing is that it chemically removes ALL rust, even inside the boxed areas of the frame. Sand blasting can't do that. So if you aren't doing a concours resto, it's a something worth considering. How you finish it afterwards is a matter of personal choice since at that point, it's purely cosmetic. The galvanizing in protection.

But it's still a choice, and not the only one. Since you live in the north where they use salt on the roads in the winter, it's one worth considering if it's available in your area. That salt doesn't evaporate in the spring. It's still there on the road and shoulders most of the summer.

BTW - I primed and painted my frame with a brush in my garage and you can't tell it. It looks fine. The epoxy primer is also an excellent choice. I've even brushed that on surfaces and had it come out looking good.

Do a search on "Herb" for the link to locate a gavanizer your area if that helps.
 
#15 ·
All you need to do to paint the frame is get an el cheapo paint gun from Home Depot, and go to a local auto paint supply store and get yourself a gallon of epoxy primer, it costs about $100 for a gallon for decent product. Just remember, paint products are like everything else, you get what you pay for. I have a TransStar number somewhere that is an exact match color wise for the frame.
 
#13 ·
Thanks to all for the info and advice. I was looking into galvanizing due to the cost versus the cost of powdercoating. But when I total up the cost of galvanizing, primer, paint, and the painter to do it, (i do not have the means to do it) it is a wash to the cost of powdercoating. I have been told that the frame would cost me $350, without blasting. So I'll have to find out who does blasting in the area and get a quote. I still think if you could clear coat a fresh galvanized frame with a clear coat that would last, it would look really neat. But sounds like the cost would over-ride my budget. Thanks again for the input, I really appreciate it, and I"m going to look into the hammered look. That sounds interesting. :yes:
 
#17 · (Edited)
Rob when I had my frame galvanized I had 2 frames done at the same time (another TC Members Frame) we took them to the place and had 2 frames and all the control arms, rear arms, 2 cross members done at a cost of $305.00 The primer which was special just for galvanize was $ 20.00 cheap, and the paint I used was Rust Oleum #1974 semi gloss black 1 Qt $8.00
Total cost for me was $170.00 Done
We split the cost in half on all, It cost me and David more to drive to the place on the other side of the state 2 times than it cost us to have the frames galvanized. I would do it again in a second.:yes:
I would not clear coat it, I would paint it for sure, as time goes by Iam sure the galvanize will get dull in color kinda like an old guard rail you see on the side of the road. Sure when you get it from the galvanizers place it looks like its been chromed.
You do some poking around on my photos in my signature you will see all of my stuff I have done to my 69 vert.:yes:
Here is a few samples when I got it home.


Here is what it looked like in the before stage below:




 
#12 ·
I'm going to have the frame for my convertible galvanized, then I'm going to blow a coat of epoxy on it, fill in the little pinholes if it has any, hit it with a couple coats of high build primer, block it down with 400 and blow another coat of epoxy on it to seal it. It will look brand new and if it gets chipped, it's an easy fix. It's not so easy to fix a chip in powdercoat.
 
#11 ·
if you want a custom look, consider having everything sandblasted and then powder coated...powder coating offers many different colors and I've seen some cool colors that have texture to them, i think it's called Hammered look. Then you could do your frame, a-arms, core support, inner fenders, ect. and everything would match. I've seen this done and it looks pretty cool, but definately a custom look and not original looking!!
 
#6 · (Edited)
I don't think it's such a bad idea. :) I know galvanizing has a different look than bare steel but I love the pics in the magazines of the bare steel cars that are in mid build-up stages. I agree, though, that the clear coat would probably peel off. Is there such a thing as clear powdercoating? Kudos for thinking outside the box. :thumbsup:
 
#10 ·
Galvanizing doesn't hold paint well. Your clear coat would likely peel off. You have to use a primer and the paint will stick good. I had my frame galvanized 1 1/2 years ago.

Tom
hmmm, would powder coat bond to fresh galvanizing?
Yes

If you have your frame galvanized you DO NOT want the oil quinch skip that part.
Their is plenty of info on this site all about having your frame galvanized with (Herb) and me (1badss396) in the threads with tons of info about it.
If your your frame is not boxed in like a convertible frame I would just sand blast the frame and powder coat it. The main reason on doing a convertible frame in the galvanixing is because you cant get the inside of the frame clean and painted and by getting it dipped in the galvanize its finished and protected forever.:yes:
 
#2 ·
Hello everyone,

I just think how clean and shiny it looks. :
Nothin like the look of a chain link fence post or trashcan to set off the underside of a chevelle.... :sad:

Your ride but honestly I think it would look like crap given that everything else will be darker shades and floorboards, etc. It will just look unfinished, IMHO.