[7XChevy]

My 71 ElCamino with a 454 has an attitude toward starters. The starter that was on the car starter making noises like it was chewing up the flexplate so I removed the starter and checked the teeth on the flexplate and they look fine. I put a new starter on and it worked fine for the first 5 or 6 times I started the car now its making the same grinding noise. Some one had installed two shims on the starter I removed so this has been going on for a while, I did not install the shims on the new starter. What should I check next? Thanks

 

[Peewee0413]

First question.... Do you know how to measure clearances on starters?

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

[zookpr]

Original equipment GM starter, non-original GM gear drive starter, or aftermarket starter?

 

[mr 4 speed]

Do you have the starter bracket installed?

 

[7XChevy]

I set the gap between the flexplate and shaft at 1/8 inch and that seemed to help. Thanks to every one.

 

[temp2c]

Take a factory starter to a quality rebuilder and have him change the windings to hi torque. Make sure you use the little end bracket, the correct GM bolts and the correct shims.

The additional weight brought on by the original starter mounted on the passenger side actually helps balance the cars weight bias to the driver's side.

The factory starters sound better, work better and are much stronger. They also get the oil circulating faster on a cold, dry engine..

 

[Bob Tiley]

Also make sure you have the correct bolts with the knurled shaft near the threads.

 

[7XChevy]

The replacement starter is AC Delco from Rock Auto. I am searching for original equipment bolts. The starter is noiser than I like. Thanks

 

[dyno jonn]

The replacement starter is AC Delco from Rock Auto. I am searching for original equipment bolts. The starter is noiser than I like. Thanks

HELP brand starter bolts are available at many auto parts stores, and will fit the same as OEM bolts. Hardware store bolts won't put the starter in the right position for correct starter drive to flywheel clearance.

 

[71350SS]

Hydro I used to think about starters the same thing as you do but after seeing first hand a Chevy PMGR starter it changed my mind about the old starters.Now I'm not talking about those mini high torque starters that are basically a 4 cylinder starter with a block of aluminum as an adapter that are sold by summit,jegs and all the online speed shops.
What I'm talking about is a starter that was designed by Chevrolet that doesn't need an adapter of any kind and that comes as standard equipment on a number of GM V6's and V8's.Around the early 90's I'm not sure of the exact timeline Chevy came out with their own gear reduction permanent magnet starters.They're OE on the 4.3L V6 5.7L and 454 V8's and the LS motors too.They look just like a AC Delco starter only smaller.A number of people on TC have used them and said how satisfied they are.Just do a search on pmgr starters then make your own decision when the time comes.

 

[71350SS]

The replacement starter is AC Delco from Rock Auto. I am searching for original equipment bolts. The starter is noiser than I like. Thanks

What is the part number of your starter ?
Or you can go back to the rockauto site and put in the part number of your starter and then hit "related parts" then a list pops up.One of the things on the list is "starter bolts" that should bring you to the bolts that fits your starter.

 

[TwoBuzzards]

Besides the gear clearance with the starter disengaged, don't forget you're also supposed to set the lash between the starter / ring gears, with the starter in the engaged position.

I actually have one of those mini gear driven el cheapo ones, and it hasn't given a single problem (other than the fact that the little pin gauge was missing from the kit).

 

[1967LSxChevelle]

Take a factory starter to a quality rebuilder and have him change the windings to hi torque. Make sure you use the little end bracket, the correct GM bolts and the correct shims.

The additional weight brought on by the original starter mounted on the passenger side actually helps balance the cars weight bias to the driver's side.

The factory starters sound better, work better and are much stronger. They also get the oil circulating faster on a cold, dry engine..

I 100% agree. I absolutely refuse to use a gear reduction or “mini” starter on anything I own that isn’t a Chrysler product. Set up properly, the factory Delco direct drive starter is rugged, reliable, and as you stated; sound “correct”. I never had a problem with them, from bone stock 305s to 11.5:1 454s. I actually removed a perfectly working LT1 gear reduction starter from my 83 Trans Am yesterday and replaced it with a 1.5kw direct drive factory starter with the correct support brace. I also love people that complain about the weight of the factory starters, which weigh roughly 20-22lbs. If somebody can’t hold 22lbs up above their head to run a couple of bolts in, maybe they should put their purse down and use two hands 🤣

 

[magicrat56]

"nose" brace is an important factor.

 

[z27]

"nose" brace is an important factor.

Yes to almost everything above and fer you young Whippersnappers this was a common problem years ago in that the starter housings were machined wrong at first they came out with a 15 thousands shim you loosened both bolts removed the outer one and put a shim in. Then you tried it and continued adding till the grind went away. This was at the very beginning then they got smart in the aftermarket . Companies like Perfect Parts Dorman and Wohlert came out with a combo pack there were three different size shims .015 .030 and . 045. the reasoning was the harder the grind the thicker the shim. This went on for years and then it stopped or became a non factor . i still have a little box of these shims new and used . i have not seen them in years up this way . I don't think that they are even made anymore. Alex

 

[1967LSxChevelle]

Yes to almost everything above and fer you young Whippersnappers this was a common problem years ago in that the starter housings were machined wrong at first they came out with a 15 thousands shim you loosened both bolts removed the outer one and put a shim in. Then you tried it and continued adding till the grind went away. This was at the very beginning then they got smart in the aftermarket . Companies like Perfect Parts Dorman and Wohlert came out with a combo pack there were three different size shims .015 .030 and . 045. the reasoning was the harder the grind the thicker the shim. This went on for years and then it stopped or became a non factor . i still have a little box of these shims new and used . i have not seen them in years up this way . I don't think that they are even made anymore. Alex

Starter shims are still made by Dorman and are supplied with many reman starters. Only now, they come in 1/64, 1/32, and 1/16 thickness.

 

[shovelrick]

Yes to almost everything above and fer you young Whippersnappers this was a common problem years ago in that the starter housings were machined wrong at first they came out with a 15 thousands shim you loosened both bolts removed the outer one and put a shim in. Then you tried it and continued adding till the grind went away. This was at the very beginning then they got smart in the aftermarket . Companies like Perfect Parts Dorman and Wohlert came out with a combo pack there were three different size shims .015 .030 and . 045. the reasoning was the harder the grind the thicker the shim. This went on for years and then it stopped or became a non factor . i still have a little box of these shims new and used . i have not seen them in years up this way . I don't think that they are even made anymore. Alex

They're still sold, I used 1 out of a pack of 3-4 about a year ago