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Better than JB Weld???

21K views 19 replies 15 participants last post by  Dave Ray  
#1 ·
Hi guys,

I found this product while searching for a fix on my son's plastic Volvo console. Don't know if any of you have seen or used it, but it looks pretty damn handy, like keeping in the trunk in case you break a connecting rod at the track..??

Anyone have experience with this "Q-bond" stuff?? Looks neat.


Bob..Merry christmas
 
#2 · (Edited)
Sum o' them yung folks tawlk faster 'n mah ears kin lissun.

Anyway, I've used various glues mixed with fibrous fillers and metallic fillers with good results.

Checking the package price of $13.99 on Amazon, I think it would be worth the cost to try it.
 
#5 ·
I've seen this glue being sold at the Auto Fair at Charlotte Motor Speedway, but under a different name. The demonstration the seller did seemed pretty impressive. I didn't buy any because he was selling just the bottle of glue for $20. Seemed expensive to me. I see Summit is selling the whole kit for less than $20. I think I might get some. BTW, the seller mentioned to keep the glue in the refrigerator to help extend the shelf life.
 
#6 ·
I happen to sell quite a bit at work and get a very high amount of repeat sales. Very popular among the Body Shop's here.
 
#8 ·
I don't know what exact mix of plastics you need to repair, but, whenever I have a plastic failure on one of my motorcycles, I use a very common cement.

MOST, not all plastics parts on Japanese motorcycles are ABS plastic, injection molded, such as side covers, tail sections, fenders, fairings, etc. After trying all sorts of cements, and even fiberglass on these covers, with noting but failures, I got the idea to use ABS cement, after repairing a drain system on my sister's mobile home. It uses a black ABS pipe situation for the drain system.

I had a fairing from a Kawasaki that had a fairly long crack/separation in it. and knew I wanted to paint it after repair. I basically roughed up the back side of the plastic, and added a line of ABS cement into a slight groove I made along the crack. Then, I added a layer of fiberglass woven cloth onto the ABS, getting the cloth fully soaked into the cement. Then, another layer if cement, another layer of cloth at a 45 degree angle to the first sheet, to overlap the weave lines, then, last layer of cement.

After drying, the repair was one heck of a lot stronger than the rest of the fairing. It has lived on a track day race bike for the last 4 years, along with more repair when it cracked in other places on the part, and those new cracks were repaired in the same manner.

Just an idea that might help with repair of ABS plastic parts for others to consider.
 
#15 ·
I have also used the two marine use repair products, "MarineTex" and "Dov-It". They both work well when the surfaces are prepped correctly, and the products are allowed to properly cure. This goes for my ABS cement and fiberglass cloth method as well, any repair is only as good as the preparation for it.
 
#16 ·
BQC ADHESIVE PRODUCTS (BLACK BULL ADHESIVE) seems to be much higher priced:
http://www.boatquickcare.com/best-glue
Good video:

PS - 540 Olds great topic BTW...thanks.
The reviews & pricing was very impressive, on the Rapidfix product.
- I going to order and use Rapidfix to salvage a $300 bottom hood on my John Deere GT262 garden tractor with broken lower hinges

RapidFix Video: http://shop.rapid-fix.com/p/rapidfix-25ml-professional-pack
Description
RapidFix has an instant adhesive and a welding powder. The Adhesive dries instantly and can be used on its own to bond any non porous material to itself or other like material. When the adhesive is combined with the welding powder it can instantly fill cracks, holes and gaps. The welding powder can also be used to support repairs. The repair can also be drilled, filed, sanded or ground to any shape that suits the repair. Because it is a neutral color it can be easily painted or take wood stain.
RapidFix can produce High strength bonds in seconds. The RapidFix adhesive dries crystal clear and bonds most material instantly. Some of these materials are rubber, metal, plastics, copper, aluminum, steel and most plastics. RapidFix welding powder is used in conjunction with the adhesive to repair all types of holes, cracks and gaps and can produce a strong weld seam to support the repair, just like solder or a welded joint. RapidFix can also be used to build up or replace missing areas of the part that is broken. Rapidfix can be instantly drilled, filed, sanded. Because it dries clear or a neutral color it can be easily painted or stained to any color. RapidFix is the only product that can repair windshield wiper bottles over flow tanks and air intake systems. Rapidfix can also repair, gas tanks, radiators, headlight housings and can be used for electrical wiring. Unlike all other instant adhesives RapidFix has a special formula and will not dry out in the bottle. RapidFix Saves time, Saves money and is absolutely amazing.

RapidFix RFX7121100 Dual Adhesive System - 25ml Professional pack:
List Price: $29.95
Price: $23.80 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35
Review & Order Link: RapidFix RFX7121100 Dual Adhesive System - Single Pack : Amazon.com : Automotive
 
#17 ·
Hy-poxy Alumbond aluminum filled epoxy putty or JB Weld???

Any experience with Hy-poxy Alumbond aluminum filled epoxy putty (2 equal parts). Their H-450 is $18.02 for 6.5 oz and H-400 is 6.32 for 2 oz. At Amazon.

I'm filling spoke holes in double wall aluminum rims of built bicycle wheels where tire fit is so tight that I prefer not using rim tape. Did one with very old (pre bar-code) PC-7 (fibrous 2-part epoxy putty) that seemed to come out OK, but was stiff to mix and place. Also, aluminum filler seems to make some sense in an aluminum part. (Color is not a consideration here. Rather, adhesion and maybe similar rates of thermal expansion....the Alumbond spec is 40 x 10 *-6 and Al metal is 23 x 10*-6.)

For reference, there is also a fast version of this Hy-poxy with expansion spec of 50 x 10 *-6. And a thinner castable version. And a thicker quick-putty version.

Wouldn't hesitate to use JB Weld here. Interesting that its MSDS indicates substantial limestone in the mix, and I cannot find a properties sheet listing thermal expansion coefficient.