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Yeah, those don't stick out at all!! :) lets see them in a 70!! :beers:
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
I took the pictures y'all sent out to my car. I have a Classic Auto Air AC in it now, the compressor bracket mounts off #2 cyl. rear & #4 cyl. front exhaust manifold bolts. With headers I would need a 3-4" long bolt & spacers with headers. I think having that much weight hanging off two bolts sticking 3-4" out would be a vibration with AC on. They make a bracket for the alt that looks like it should work. Anyone have aftermarket AC with headers?
I did some searching & found compressor brackets from vintage air that mount closer to the cyl head. I think I can modify my brackets to work. From the pics it looks like I will need to clearance my A arms & header. So I am looking at getting uncoated headers, clearance them & then get them coated locally. Quotes for coat are $2-300.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Went to the Goodguys car show in Scottsdale this weekend. Lots of nice cars & nice weather. Does anybody have experience clearancing the upper control arm for header room? It looks like the passanger side header tube gets close to the upper rear A arm. I have 3* caster so my arm is closer than in this pic. Can I remove some of the A arm for clearance? How much?
 

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My issues have always been on the drivers side.
I've always had the car jacked up and installed from underneath.
I've had to raise the engine before and once I had to disconnect the steering shaft.
Never had to mess with the brake lines.

Good luck
 
Yeah, from what I remember, plugs have to come out, starter and oil filter out, steering shaft either out or pulled to the side, and the engine raised way up. Headers in from the bottom. I'm actually thinking about putting some back on mine. (that will be the icing on the cake after all the holiday joy of Christmas shoppers and traffic!)
 
Oh yeah, forgot about the lower control arm brackets. Do you have the canister filter or spin on? How's the #5 plug clearance? If the engine is back down, are there any clearance issues with the steering shaft? Any dimpling done to your shinny new headers?
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
I have a spin on filter, #5 plug looks ok but I will be installing Accel shortys for more clearance & they are due for a change anyway. I haven't got the steering shaft back on the rag joint yet so I don't know about that clearance. Yes they did get some light scratches.
 
If you cut this area off they will go in easier, right around the dip stick tube.
 

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Discussion starter · #54 ·
I bought my headers directly from Headman. I called to ask about getting an uncoated header that I could clearance as needed & was told they couldn't do that. David then said that they had some headers that were returns but never installed for $200. The list price for the Elite header is $450. He sent pictures that looked good. Upon inspection of them they have the normal amount of scratches that happen while installing. I am very happy with them & love the savings.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Yes! I got the pass header in, didn't even have to remove the small starter or raise engine. I'm now repositioning the combination brake valve under the master cylinder like the later years did it. I made up a bracket that mounts off the master cylinder hold down bolt. Guess I will be bending & flaring some brake line.
 
My plugs where already out. I had to remove the oil filter on the drivers side along with the dip stick receptacle tube... Even with the 4-speed linkage I never raised the motor on either side.

In hind sight, I did have to trim the passenger, rear, upper control arm about a 1/4 inch in the rear. Reciprocating saw made quick work of it and I never gave it a second thought. Didn't care much anyway as they are going away to be replaced with tubular in the spring. The #4 tube is too close for me. I also have line lock and an adjustable rear propitiating valve plumbed "not the average brake configuration" no issues.





Some more for fun...









 
Gary, what alternator and p/s mounts did you use?
 
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