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Bellhousing ball stud for throw out fork, FYI

651 views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  72soft-top  
#1 ·
I have seen a few threads on various Chevy forms lately about the clutch adjustment and how the length of the ball stud effects it. I have had the same problem with my 69 Chevelle now that I am driving it. The throw out bearing was spinning all the time in order to get the clutch to disengage to shift. I have a 621 GM bellhousing. It had the short ball stud for the fork. I figured out I needed a longer ball stud to fix the problem. Here is a pic of the short one that came out and the long one that I put in. Now the bearing does not spin all the time and the clutch pedal/engagement feels like it should.

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#7 ·
I had the same issue when I converted my wife’s 78 vette to a 5 speed. The fork ball was too long and I couldn’t even button up the bellhousing without major interference. Did some research and the shorter ball was the cure. Always something with these old cars?
 
#5 ·
When I was experiencing trans to engine misalignment (corrected with offset block to bellhousing dowels) I purchased an aftermarket '621' bellhousing that looked very nice, except that the holes for the block dowels were .020 too large. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
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#4 ·
I bought a nice used aluminum bell housing a couple years ago for my 396 L78 engine build and the ball stud is really stuck in there! Looks fine though, and I might just leave it because I have a new repop bell housing with a new ball stud, but I prefer running an original GM part! 👍
 
#6 ·
Heat is your friend ! Use a mapp gas cylinder and heat the aluminum around the stud. If that doesn't remove it, let it cool and heat just the stud cherry red or as hot as possible.
Let it cool and try to remove it. Heat the stud again if that fails. It should come out after a couple of cycles. :)
 
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