what pistons, rod, crank are you using and how high do you what to rev it to flex your MCar?

 

well I don't know much about that. have never seen the "bottom end" of that mill. bought it from somebody assembled 4 years ago. I do know that it's a 2-bolt main, internally balanced crank, and TRW SpeedPro forged domed pistons (.060 overbore).

Lee

 

I'd say if you want balls to the wall power and don't mind checking valve lash once a year go solid.

Otherwise go hydraulic.

But if you do go solid you might want to consider really biting the bullet and going solid roller.

 

I'd say if you want balls to the wall power and don't mind checking valve lash once a year go solid.

Otherwise go hydraulic.

But if you do go solid you might want to consider really biting the bullet and going solid roller.

Dear Dawg:

other than the added high cost of going "roller", what other mods have to be done to accomdate the roller cam setup on my Gen IV BBC?

 

Leejoy,

I gotta mention that ALMOST ALL 454/468's are extenally balanced so did you pay a premium to get an intenally balanced 454/468 engine AND did the guy selling it to you say so??

That said, I'd at the bare min. pull a head and see what I had.

And the guys are right about using a good solid lifter cam b/c they can kick the lifter harder which equate's to being able to create more suck, AND this mean's they produce more T over the whole rpm range vs a same hy-cam!! Like about 3 to 4 precent more power everywhere...

As for a CAM!! UDHarold create's some of THE BEST going, imho!!

Hunt up Harold and ask him to spec and make you what you need!!

Can't go wrong from the Master!!!

pdq67

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Leejoy,

I gotta mention that ALMOST ALL 454/468's are extenally balanced so did you pay a premium to get an intenally balanced 454/468 engine AND did the guy selling it to you say so??

That said, I'd at the bare min. pull a head and see what I had.

And the guys are right about using a good solid lifter cam b/c they can kick the lifter harder which equate's to being able to create more suck, AND this mean's they produce more T over the whole rpm range vs a same hy-cam!! Like about 3 to 4 precent more power everywhere...

As for a CAM!! UDHarold create's some of THE BEST going, imho!!

Hunt up Harold and ask him to spec and make you what you need!!

Can't go wrong from the Master!!!

pdq67

I'm 90% sure it's internally balanced. I saw slugs of tungsten (or something) drilled into the crankshaft counterweights when I had the timing chain off. Also, there are no weights on the flexplate. that means "internally balanced" right?

lee

 

Go for hyd roller if budget allows!! Go with Crane,Lunati or Ultradyne designs

 

Go for hyd roller if budget allows!! Go with Crane,Lunati or Ultradyne designs

why "hydraulic roller" instead of "mechanical roller"?

 

Mechanical cam of 240* @.050 while have performance close to a 235* @ .050 hyd roller. A hyd roller has no valve lash,if your looking for over 6,500rpm's go solid roller.

The valve lash makes the cam act smaller,more valve last the smaller the cam acts,the less valve lash the bigger the cam acts.

Go with Crane,Lunati or Ultradyne

 

I went with the hyd roller it is expensive. you are looking about a grand for cam and lifters. also think about vaccuum if you need it or not. I have manuel disc so I didn't need it. but well worth it the 461 I have built runs awesome.

 

Lee,

Are you going to pull a head and verify what you bought?

There's several reasons to do this!!

Verify that it is an internally balanced 454 type engine!

Check type of piston!

Check head chamber cc and also the quench dimension............

JUST so you will know what all this stuff really is.

And it's easier to do it now while it's new and clean..

Imho...

pdq67

Ps., you might want to clay the valves to make sure there is enough v/p room??

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Lee,

Are you going to pull a head and verify what you bought?

There's several reasons to do this!!

Verify that it is an internally balanced 454 type engine!

Check type of piston!

Check head chamber cc and also the quench dimension............

JUST so you will know what all this stuff really is.

And it's easier to do it now while it's new and clean..

Imho...

pdq67

Ps., you might want to clay the valves to make sure there is enough v/p room??

Dear pdq dude: I've already checked the casting numbers and verified it's a 454 block from a late 70's truck. I checked that 2-3 years ago. The heads are from a 1969 passenger "pass" car. Oval port, Iron.

As far as the crankshaft.......I have no idea where or what that is from? but it has to be a 4.25" stroke, that much I know. Those new SpeedPro pistons come right up to the top of the cylinder. I have the motor apart right now.

 

Those look like my 454HO pistons = 8.75:1 with a 119cc chamber!

 

can ya read any #s on the pistons?

 

can ya read any #s on the pistons?

of course I can. I can do better than that. Here is a pic. Look it up. It's been a few years. I'm 99% sure it's a .060 over 454 piston. So that's a 4.310 diameter right? Should equate to 468 CID.

 

Heres a link to those pistons

http://www.21cgt.com/FMWebCatalog/default.htm

 

You might have to go through the whole process to find those pistons

 

leejoy what is the numbers on the heads? you have pm

 

the number on the heads is 3931063.

 

those 2399's have a .095 dome

 

so how do I calculate compression ratio from that. I know the heads have 101cc comb chambers. Does speedpro provide a online calculator or something for those pistons to provide you with compression ratio value? The dome is only a portion of the piston, so you can't say that .095" covers the entire surface area.

Lee

 

Lee,I have basically the same combo (my domes are .100 tall and I have 063 heads as well)

depending on piston to deck height,head gasket thickness,etc. you can be anywhere from 9.75 to about 10.25 to 1 or so with those pistons and 101 cc chamber heads

from summit's website:
These pistons are not compatible with Gen V or Gen VI engines. Approximate compression ratios: 10.23:1 with 100.9cc, 9.71:1 with 106.9cc, 9.52:1 with 109.4cc, 8.98:1 with 116.9cc, and 8.84:1 with 119cc head.

here is a link:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW-L2399F30&autoview=sku

 

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

 

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

what I need to calculate compression ratio is the "DOME VOLUME" of those SpeedPro pistons. anybody know what that might be?

Lee

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW-L2399F&autoview=sku

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW-L2399F&autoview=sku

ok great thanks. but I'm confused now. My piston is supposed to be .060" larger than a standard 4.250 piston. It even says it on the piston (.060) but on the summit website it shows that piston as a 4.250 bore diameter. So how does that work? is the piston a 4.250 or a 4.310? are different rings used?

Lee

 

Your probably next gonna ask about head gasket and I cant help you with that.

 

I'm coming up with 10.39 using a 4.310 piston, 4.370x.040 head gasket, 101 cambers, and pistons down in the hole about .020. Zero deck gets you about 10.8, but block doesnt look decked.

 

Lee, have you cc'd your heads? You mentioned port and polish in the first post here and that could make the chamber a little bigger. Just mentioning this, since you're trying to figure out compression ratio.

 

Lee, have you cc'd your heads? You mentioned port and polish in the first post here and that could make the chamber a little bigger. Just mentioning this, since you're trying to figure out compression ratio.

no I havent

but the heads are going to a shop today. if they can do one of the chambers for me at a reasonable price I will have them do it.

 

Try here too,

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/Race math calculators.htm

and still offering to help if wanted.

pdq67

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Try here too,

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/Race math calculators.htm

and still offering to help if wanted.

pdq67

I'll take whatever help I can get. You can PM me if you wish.

Lee

 

Lee,

FYI, I have that old Hotrod mag w/ the article "The Lash Word" in my stash somewhere and it is just about the best tech article ever printed!!

Cams, like 5 of them, intakes, like 4 of them, carb's a couple!! Headers, I forget?

And to get into BB head's try here!!

Oval vs rect head article test! “Polishing Sneakers”!
http://www.maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

Lee, I gotta say that you are gonna start pis-ing people off that are trying to help here!!

So careful and I didn't call you DUDE!!

pdq67

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Lee,

FYI, I have that old Hotrod mag w/ the article "The Lash Word" in my stash somewhere and it is just about the best tech article ever printed!!

Cams, like 5 of them, intakes, like 4 of them, carb's a couple!! Headers, I forget?

And to get into BB head's try here!!

Oval vs rect head article test! “Polishing Sneakers”!
http://www.maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

Lee, I gotta say that you are gonna start pis-ing people off that are trying to help here!!

So careful and I didn't call you DUDE!!

pdq67

I will read that article you gave me. I will try to find that last word thing too. And don't worry about the pissing people off thing. I don't care. gotta have a little sense of humor and not be over sensitive. If calling somebody "dude" pisses them off then I don't want to hear from them anyway. Plenty of other guys out there not at all offended by a "dude" comment. Most of them like it.

thanks for the help.

 

I had found the article and was trying to put it in a file to send, but it just is not going well (Computer challenged )

 

Yeah I was going to ask you guys to scan it and upload here...

 

I could try and scan it at work then email it to someone who could then upload it.

 

HERE is the article online for "The Lash Word".

 

Ok, I'm on it. thanks

the only thing is that was 17 years ago. alot of engine performance technology and parts has changed since then.

Lee