I've done it that way before with no problems and I had to really pound it on. You have to be careful to apply the hits to the inside of the damper. For the price of a good install/ removal tool, I wouldn't do it with a hammer again.
You should be fine.

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1969 SS 396 Camaro/Th 400/355s.(454 now)
Not a Chevelle but the BBC guys are here!

 

For many years Chevy didnt drill the cranks for dampner bolts....As long as you didnt hit on the outer ring only you should be OK.

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1969 El Camino
69 LS1 335 HP 427
( not the origional engine)
M21 12 Bolt 3:07's.
Daily Driver work truck.

 

The problem with hammering the dampener on, is that you are driving the crank into the bearing surface of the thrust bearing with each blow. This could very well increase the crankshaft end-play, which is a very critical spec - especially if you are running a high-stall torque converter or a performance clutch set-up. Invest in a good dampener and save your engine. For best results, put the dampener under a heat lamp for a few hours before installing. This will make it much easier to install.

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Bill
64 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe (original owner) car now has 427" BB, Chrysler HEMI 4-spd. trans., 12 bolt 5.57 w/spool & axles.
"HOT RODDER is NOT a dirty word"
"Too much horsepower is just enough"

 

In my chevy factory overhall manual, it says to beat it on with a hammer(65s didn't have the front bolt, as stated above), so it must not damage the thrust bearing too much.

I think the main problem is vibrating and dislodging the outer ring as you hit the inner (the hammer blow might shift the outer ring a little). The manual shows this this tool that you fit over the dampener that applies the force of the blow to the outer AND inner part, which keeps everything aligned.

I wouldn't do it this way unless I had no other choice (installers are cheap), but since it sounds like you already did it, you might as well run it.

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Charles Perrell
cperrell@yahoo.com
65 malibu SS Convertible
283 2v powerglide

 

And as for "cranking it over on a stand
shows that its not bent or anything."

IF you did bend or crack it, it most likely would not be visible to the naked eye anyway...

------------------

"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
The Chevelle
Dual Quad 396
Side View

 

I just did a timing chain repl. on my '92 Roadmaster. Did the 2x4 - BFH to get it started, then used the center pulley/snout bolt and washer (totally goobered up with anti-seize) and an impact to pull it up tight. I made sure I had at least 10 full turns of thread on the bolt before putting the gun to it.
Worked for me....

BTW.. When I originally removed the center bolt, some really dirty old engine oil leaked out. Anyone know if the snout bolt is a sealing point for the oil passages in the crank?

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"Atomic Batteries to Power...Turbines to Speed"

(The Minnesota John D)

'64 El Camino
383 - TH-350 - 12bolt - 4wh pwr discs
Bedded down for the Winter.

 

I've had friends get away with this before. I put together a tool for about $4.38, threaded rod, washers, and grade 8 nut. Y grade 8? Because thats what they had left. You should be alright.

Brandon

 

I made a installer from an old Rotator from under a BBC exh valve spring and a washer and a bolt and nut to fit the nose It works great. I have hammered them on as well and they were ok.

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67 BB Prostreet Camaro COMBAT RAT
71 BB Chevelle (SS clone)
80 Camaro Z28 355 SBC
2002 35th anniv. SS Z28

 

WOW! It's been a while since we've seen this name. I always did like your car and the morphing picture in the feature section.

I've put a lot of them on this way with no problem. Ditto what everyone else said about the outer ring.

 

yep, I never left. just never had much to say.
nice to be remembered.

thanks for all the replies.
just wanted a "warm & fuzzy"

 

John D...

You should put a little RTV sealer in the keyway on the balancer before you install it. Engine oil can weep along the key in the crank and come out under the large center bolt and washer. It's not the bolt threads, just the key.

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Don<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>1969 Chevelle 2dr. project in progress.
<LI>70% done...feels like 70% left to do
[/list]

 

I would never use a hammer. I did a 350 like that and destroyed the thrust on the crank and the block both were unusable afterwards. I hammered for a half hour on that booger. I was wondering what the knocking sound was after I got it back together and it was the counterweights on the crankshaft hitting the main caps where it was sliding back and forth in the main saddles. I have installer and it works great, no more hammers.

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69 Malibu 406 3680lbs Turbo 350 2400 stall, 3.73,XE274, Performer RPM Q-JET, 800 Q-JET, Sportsman2 64cc 11TO1 12.65@105.5 mph

ACES Member #3635