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I think I read that. .026 is safe and to start there.
 
If its an "old school" cam, Dan 1 is about right. 25-26 thou are fine places to start, maybe a little tighter like 22-24. Tight is good! But not too tight! :) I would also do what dan2 recommends, check a few. Many old school grinds had looser exhausts.

THNX for your service you nasty leg! ( as was I, attached to SOG - no end of ridicule)
 
If its a older cam, .018" is bit tight no? If the ramps arent "tight lash" it may never cool well.

fwiw, my old skool Crane cam ( .024/.026) ran best with lash LOOSE, opposite of what one may expect. assume the loose lash gave much quicker valve action is all.
 
Like said, it's definitely a trial and error thing. I was in same situation after the idiot I bought my car from told me it was a hydraulic cam, when it clearly is not, lol.

Having no idea of whether it was tight lash, or old style, or anything else, you have to experiment. I started at .028" and car was actually hard top start and sounded horrible. I tried .022" next and engine sounded like it had no oil in it, it was clacking so loudly. I ended up at .012" and that's where it makes the most vacuum and idles/runs the best, so that's where I stayed. Still have no idea what cam, who's cam, or whatever info about it, but it runs good and is rather quiet for a solid flat tappet cam.

Good Luck.:beers:
 
What Stokerboats said. Use the EO/IE method to go through the valves, all of the, I & E. write down the numbers as you go. throw out the loosest and tightest from I & E, average the other numbers. Now with that number in hand go back through and set the valves per EO/IE.

over the years I've found stuff like a 69 Z/28 302 with a hydraulic cam adjusted to 30-30. Nice, huh?
 
over the years I've found stuff like a 69 Z/28 302 with a hydraulic cam adjusted to 30-30. Nice, huh?
Did it clatter a bit? ;)
A guy I know put hyd. lifters on 30-30 cam, that didn't work out either.
 
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