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Hey ther Mr Hot,

So you live in Blaine. Well I live in Brooklyn Park and would be happy to help. Been at it for a while, and run a repair shop in Maplewood, so not a newbie. If you would like some help, shoot me a PM. Obviously Christmas is coming up, so the next week may be sketchy, but I would be more than happy to give you a hand and get the beast running better.
 
Hey ther Mr Hot,

So you live in Blaine. Well I live in Brooklyn Park and would be happy to help. Been at it for a while, and run a repair shop in Maplewood, so not a newbie. If you would like some help, shoot me a PM. Obviously Christmas is coming up, so the next week may be sketchy, but I would be more than happy to give you a hand and get the beast running better.
What a nice Christmas gift :thumbsup:
 
You can't really "crush" the lifters. Over tightening will hang the valves open and maybe get one tagged. It's possible to tighten 'em down to the point of bottoming out, but it won't hurt the lifter. Valves won't close, you'll have pistons tagging the valves, bend valves and pushrods, engine won't fire, but the lifters won't care. Loosen 'em off and they'll be fine.
Sitting without running and acting completely different after sitting doesn't say valves to me, it says fuel, maybe something with timing as well.
 
You can't really "crush" the lifters. Over tightening will hang the valves open and maybe get one tagged. It's possible to tighten 'em down to the point of bottoming out, but it won't hurt the lifter. Valves won't close, you'll have pistons tagging the valves, bend valves and pushrods, engine won't fire, but the lifters won't care. Loosen 'em off and they'll be fine.
Sitting without running and acting completely different after sitting doesn't say valves to me, it says fuel, maybe something with timing as well.
X2.. And a bent valve will give you that 0 compression on that one cylinder.
 
Parking a car for a few weeks does not change the valve adjustment.

You need to find out what's going on with the zero compression cylinder first. Considering the other stuff mentioned it's likely got an over tight valve adjustment.

did you ever do the EO/IC valve adjustment procedure? That would be your next step.
 
Hold on there Hoss, there are a few things to check. It doesn't sound like delivery. Needle & seats may have rubbish, float level may need adjusting. Something may have gummed up. The gurus will be here.
I agree, if it was running great when you parked it I'll bet its picked up garbage from the fuel system somewhere, even the tank maybe. I got some bad gas early this year and it took about 4-5 times of taking the filter apart and cleaning it before it cleaned up for good.
 
Meh, I donnow. The only time I've done it was on a SBC where I had cut a valve cover for this specifically. Otherwise it s a mess.

I've never missed with EO.IC one set at time. To the OP, if you havent done it before, find a TC budy near you. The shop defintely effed it up. The mill should have been purring after a valve adj.

=================

Just an FYI,if you use rocker clips or AL foil molded over upper edns of orckers along with a little more AL placed/molded over lower edge of head where v-cover gasket seals (Also covering ex manifold/header) theres no mess at all when doing hyd valve adj with the motor running.

A cut out v-cover along with using the clips or AL foil also works well too.

Scott
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Putput, I just set the preset "Mr hot 67 ss" that shows on everyone's screen in the option setting of what not to put. The car is in storage but ill gladly take you up on your offer.

And gentleman, I don't think anyone here is reading what I actually typed. I said the motor started up great and ran great after sitting for 4 weeks, that's why I county not understand why it acted up in a matter of overnight later in that month.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
And my apologies if I don't respond to everyone, I'm posting from my phone - its extremely slow and will not let me quote folks.

Thanks
 
I'm apt to agree with Bob West. Maybe that fuel line that looked funny had a piece fall off inside that ended up in your float valve. I would start by starting over. Do a leak down test first. That will tell you if any valves are damaged. With that passing, anything else will fall into the tuning or adjust category, except the rubber in the float valve. Is it pouring out black smoke? Did timing move? I'd also be looking for dirt everywhere in the carb, like idle circuit. I doubt that it is fuel pump as long as it keeps starting. We need more info about that cam. It is possible you just got some bad lifters that collapsed to the bottom of their travel and got stuck. It happens.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
No fuel filter at all (i know. Not good) cam type comp hydraulic roller, no black smoke at all, not sure on timing.
 
No fuel filter, huh?
Why didn't you say that in the first place?
You're not ever going to get this thing to run right for any length of time as long as you continue to pump trash into your carb. You take the time to clean it out and as soon as the pickup snags the trash out of your tank, you're back to square one.
And get someone who knows how to adjust valves to help next time. Zero compression on one cylinder should tell you something.
Don't mean to sound like I'm raggin' your a$$, but the lack of a fuel filter makes this a problem of your own doing. Same with valve adjustment.
 
gotta agree on the filter. When I got my nova together it had a clogged fuel line by the tank. Got it cleaned installed a new filter etc. The car ran good for a week. Then one day it would backfire and just not run right. I did the usual, checked the timing, valves etc. Changed carbs and still no good. Finally checked the fuel line and it was clogged again. ended up dropping the tank, cleaned it and the lines. changed the fuel filter and it ran great. A week later the filter was plugged up again. Im thinking stuff still in the lines. I swapped the filter again. and going to swap it just for good measure once more. jim
 
No fuel filter at all (i know. Not good) cam type comp hydraulic roller, no black smoke at all, not sure on timing.
Doh! Even a $4 generic inline filter would have probably saved you a bunch of money.
Odds are that you got some trash in your carb and has started all these problems and symptoms.

Even if that's not the case, a piece of trash can get stuck in the needle and seat (esp. with Holley), cause your fuel bowl to overflow, spill onto a hot engine, and burn your car to the ground. And why? Because of no fuel filter. I've seen it happen.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
No fuel filter, huh?
Why didn't you say that in the first place?
You're not ever going to get this thing to run right for any length of time as long as you continue to pump trash into your carb. You take the time to clean it out and as soon as the pickup snags the trash out of your tank, you're back to square one.
And get someone who knows how to adjust valves to help next time. Zero compression on one cylinder should tell you something.
Don't mean to sound like I'm raggin' your a$$, but the lack of a fuel filter makes this a problem of your own doing. Same with valve adjustment.
Shop that put motor in for me said I did not need a filter. (is there a frame rail filter stock?) They also said that if i deleted the only rubber in the fuel line, and replaced it with a fuel filter and metal line, that the fuel would get air bubbles in it and run like crap. Any truth to this, air bubbles in fuel lines with no rubber that are all metal>

Sounds bunk to me.
 
Your shop guy is a liar or an idiot. Install a filter and clean out your carb.
 
I may have missed it - what carb is on this thing?

Some carbs, QJ's for example, had small filters installed in the carb's fuel inlet and that was the only filter anywhere in the fuel line and there was no need for a 2nd filter. Bazillions of these were out there.

But yeah, does sound like your "shop" guy may not know what he's doing.
 
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