I found this and this person asked the same question about the green wire

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/anyone-have-a-wiring-diagram-for-a-69-air-conditioner.378871/

 

Thanks for that link, the diagrams will help, but I'm having trouble reading some areas. The pics in that thread are broken. I did check the airbox sensor where the green wire turns tan and there is continuity there at least.

 

I can't help you with the aftermarket integration, but on the factory controls (if that is what you still have) I can shed some light on......on an A/C car, the highest fan speed activates the evaporator box mounted relay which sends full voltage to the blower motor.

Although not a '69, here is some discussions I had with another member that may be helpful to you:

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/blower-motor-running-at-low-speed-in-off-position.1177899/?post_id=11850231#post-11850231

Here is the same member with another discussion:

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/1972-chevelle-factory-air.1177727/

 

So the whole car side is unmodified, the engine swap is a stand alone harness. So the only wiring changes being made are those related to the Sanden pump and the trinary switch i added from Vintage Air when i put their condenser and dryer in.

 

Ok everyone, I'm still at a loss with this green A/C clutch wire.

Is there anything in the controls that requires the engine be running to command A/C clutch engagement?

 

Ok everyone, I'm still at a loss with this green A/C clutch wire.

Is there anything in the controls that requires the engine be running to command A/C clutch engagement?

You have to have feron pressure to complete the circuit to the compressor clutch.

 

Based on those wiring diagrams, i think starting at the fuse box and following power over to the HVAC would be your next move. the way those controls work is kinda funky, and i cant quite follow the diagram, but the last switch power goes through inside the car is that door diverter switch. i guess it closes when the mode door is in the "cool" position. im thinking that switch is going to be on the passenger side somewhere below the glove box.

Im not sure if this is even relevant, but when i bought my 73 Camaro, the AC didnt work. and im pretty sure that included the fan. i tracked that down to a fusible link, that was supposed to be connected at the starter, which on my car, is not there. nor was i able to find where it was supposed to go through the firewall. i just ended up powering up the HVAC from the fuse box i added in the engine compartment.

But if your fan is working, i would kind of lean on that mode door switch.

 

i tracked that down to a fusible link.

You nailed it, last night I found the fusible link and cleaned up the contacts. That restored max fan speed.

I think you might be right on the door switch because my vents don't respond, so it's stuck in defrost (blows on the windshield and floor). I'm trying to nail down all possibilities before taking that forsaken dash assembly apart. Lol

 

Do you have a wiring diagram ? If not let me know and I will scan the one in the factory service manual and post it. Just to be certain, we are working on a 69 Chevelle ? And it has the regular "manual" AC system not the automatic one ?

 

I would really appreciate that!

I got a couple diagrams off the net but the image quality is pretty bad, so i get lost in them.

That's a good question, I guess i better post a pic of the controls when I get home from the doctor. They are quite confusing on exactly what they do. As soon as I move the top (of 3) sliders I hear a relay click in the dash and then the fan switch starts working. That slider is labeled vent, max, then heat i think? Then the middle slider i believe is temp, the bottom has defrost settings if I remember correctly?

The fan speed is vertical on the left and doesn't have speed settings labeled.

I think this Google image is it?

 

Ok. That just the normal setup. They had an optional automatic one where you set the temperature and it would maintain it. Ill take the manual home tonight and scan it.

 

Here's the actual cars current setup. No kidding? Never knew they had something like that in the 60's!

 

Ok more clarification. I have the short vacuum line that used to go to the ball vacuum canister rerouted straight to the throttle body vacuum port. I removed the ugly vacuum ball canister as I didn't think it was necessary with this swap, as the motor pulls about 14 inches of mercury at idle, am i wrong? I can reinstall it if necessary. Are there some sort of check valves or diaphragm inside it or is it simply a void? There's another much longer hose with a rubber loop that looks like a bolt hole, in the end, I'm pretty sure that was for the old vacuum hot water valve. I have that plugged.

 

i think you need that vacuum ball as a reserve tank. like when you step on the gas and vacuum goes away, all those vacuum actuators will go back to their "no vacuum" state. but it really might not bother you much. i have no vacuum can on my Camaro, but with at least the fan on in vent mode, if the vacuum goes away, it will take the air from the vents, and send it to the floor and defroster until vacuum comes back up.

 

Yeah I thought about that. I think the best fix is going to be to lock the mode doors where I want them when I put in my Dakota gauges. I just want max A/C and recirc as I live in the desert. It's very hot in the summer and barely gets cold in the winter. Never need defrost, if i want vent/fresh air I'll roll a window down. Lol

 

In case you still need it here is a scan of the wiring diagram.

 

Wow! So much better than the online version! Thanks a bunch!

 

On a secondary note, anyone know how the kick panel cable/vent system works? Which direction is open/closed?

 

I'm betting this switch is the issue, it looks like the door triggers the A/C pump if im interpreting it right?

 

Did you read the links I provided early on in this thread? My pictures show the operation of the compressor switch.

This can easily be checked visually and electrically with a test light.

No power on the tan wire, leaving the compressor switch, means no compressor operation at all.

 

I did, I must have missed this?

EDIT: i Didn't miss it, but I re-read it again. When I hear the audible, "click" as soon as I move the top lever from the extreme left (it won't really stay there anyways, it's kind of sticky and wants to rest just into the "on" position) that "click" turns on the fan to whatever speed is selected, isn't that also the same relay that should turn on the compressor clutch? They are not the same at this point, before the cam turns them off?