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twotone64

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I posted the other day with some problems, I fixed one, the over revving... dumb @$$ me had 1.5 quarts low on trans fluid, so I took care of that. Then I read and re read the tvmadeez web site. It basically said to put the carb at WOT then pulled the TV cable out all the way and adjusted the cable adjuster so that they matched up. But it still shifts a little wierd for me.

Symptoms:

My speedometer is off so I cant say at what speeds it shifts. But it seems to shift pretty quickly, solidly, but quickly, then it definately has a problem because the engine then lugs down like you shifted through a 5 speed too quickly, the engine shutters. When I am in 3rd or OD, at crusing, I go to 3/4 throttle to accellerate and it shutters again like im in too high of a gear, it doesnt shift down. I havent tried full throttle yet from crusing. i have put about 10 miles on the trans but I'm afraid to burn it up.

When I am decelerating at 0 throttle, I can definately feel the trans pushing the engine, and when I get to just about a dead stop, I can feel the engine trying to die, as if i was driving a manual trans in gear and slowing down.

Rod
 
Suggest you call "California Performance Transmission" and speak to Art Carr. In most cases he will walk you through the TV Cable adjustment procedure. He's a really decent guy.

His Phone: 1-714-901-3777

Avoid noon. He always goes to lunch. :)
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Suggest you call "California Performance Transmission" and speak to Art Carr. In most cases he will walk you through the TV Cable adjustment procedure. He's a really decent guy.

His Phone: 1-714-901-3777

Avoid noon. He always goes to lunch. :)

Shall I tell him you sent me?
 
just because you adujusted your TV cable to where you think it should be dosent mean that your transmission pressures are correct. when i did my 700r4 swap i remember calling in all my transmisson pressures @ different specified RPMs and gettting the ok from the shop. i bought mine from bowtie overdrives and have had nothing but good experiences with the guys, super knowledgeable and could probably walk you thru your problems. good luck
 
WITH THIS STATEMENT YOU MADE "the engine trying to die, as if i was driving a manual trans in gear and slowing down."

That tells me the lockup solinoid is sticking or not unlocking when it should like when brake is depressed comming to a stop ,etc.

Take it to reputable shop thats familier with your 700r4 trans and tell them this same thing about motor trying to stall when stopping like it was a manaul trans car and they will know what to look for,they should be able to quiclky adj/tweak the TV cable & check line pressure too for better shifting .

Scott
 
If your trans does a real quick 1-2 shift, chances are your tv cable needs adjustment.
Remember if it is out of adjustment it can burn your tranny up quick.
Do not drive it any distance until you get it checked and fixed.

You can try this.
Get in and drive til it shifts, if it to fast pull over.
Shut off the engine.
Pull your cable tighter at wot by a bit and lock it down.

Drive it again, if it still shifting to fast try again, but make sure your tragectory of the tv cable line is straight.

You should be able to adjust it yourself enough to get it to a shop.

Just my .02
 
How do you have your lock up for the torque converter controlled? If it is not unlocking it will buck the car on deceleration. What stall?
Sounds like the torque converter is locking up and causing the engine to lug. You can wire it to only lock up in 4th gear if you need to.
Disconnect your power to your torque converter lock up and see if that that is the problem.
The TV cable needs proper adjustment but is only part of the throttle valve system. Too loose and you are not calling for sufficent pump pressure as your torque and rpm rise, which will kill you clutches. Too tight and you have full pump pressure at low rpm and hard shifts and no full throttle because your tv cable is tight as a piano wire.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I played around with it this weekend, following the bowtieoverdrive setup. I pulled the carb to WOT then adjusted the cable so that it was tight at that point. It still did a quick 1-2 shift. I did th drive and adjust and got what I would think is a good shift timing for 1-2, but it was a little soft, so I made it a little tighter to get back to the more firm shift.

With regards to the lockup control, I have a switch for the torque conver, that I bought (but cant remember where). it is basically an on off switch. I believe it only locks it up in 4th gear (or suppose too). I followed the wireing diagram that came with it. It does it with the switch both on and off. If I put it in neutral, and then back into gear, it doesn't lug down the motor.

I plan to take the car to a trans. shop on Tuesday to get them to test the line pressures, and such. I have a new converter to put in it this summer, when Im off work.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Yes, I have the bracket that goes on the throttle lever for and from Holley, as well as the TV cable bracket. The cable bracket is Holley part number 20-95, and the TV geometry bracket is the Holley part number 20-121. I have a 4150 600CFM Holley carb. Im using the stock TV cable. Ive been researching to see where I got the switch from, but it is just a switch connected to the elecrical connector. If I remember correctly, I have a ground at the connector, a wire from the connector to a pressure switch, and then back to a toggle switch, then to B+. The wire coming from the pressure switch goes to "A" on the connector as well, and the ground should be on "D". would having the wire connected to the wrong port on the trans keep the torque conver locked up?
 
Depends on the valve body and which switch. Some had pressure switches on for lower gears so you may be locking it up in 3rd or even second which will cause some lugging. This sounds like you do not have a disconnect on the brake light circuit. Some cars need them to keep them from bucking until the converter unlocks. 700's can lock up in 2nd, 3rd and 4th if you want them to. Try unhooking it and see if it fixes it. The simple way it have a pressure switch in the 4th gear circuit and run through it with a toggle switch and maybe a relay to cut power when you hit the brakes.
If it is set to lock in 2nd on up it can cause problems on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift.
Good luck with it...
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Ill check tomorrow to see where the pressure switch is that I installed. I thought I followed the directions for that kit for 4th gear to lock up ONLY when the toggle switch was on and for all other gears to remain unlocked. If I recall it did the bucking with or without the switch on. I will verify this however, when I get home.
 
There are two kinds of pressure switches, single terminal and double terminal. Same for the TCC lock up solenoid. In the case where there is one terminal, the second "terminal" is the ground connection to the case.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Using the directions that came with the wiring "kit" It said to power the switch, ground it as well for the LED in the switch, then a wire from the switch to the two terminal pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to the connection, and theno one wire on the connection goes to ground. Im pretty sure that is how it is, again Ill have to check to see.

Time is short right now trying to get ready for my first to be born, and the Chevelle is kinda on the back burner for a couple of days.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Ill be doing some dricing tomorrow evening maybe not till wednesday. but Ill try by turning off the lock up switch before I even start the car and test to see if it is staying unlocked and not shuttering when coming to a stop.
 
Unhook the lock up and drive it is a good first step. The thing to watch out for is which port the pressure switch is in. I have seen valve bodies with multiple pressure switches. Another thing that can happen is the port locks in the closed position and then your lock up refuses to unlock even on deceleration. Easy to check with a voltmeter.
 
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I've searched the internet far and wide for the same problem you ran into here.

I was just curious if you ever solved the problem, and if you didn't mind sharing. My truck (72 C10, TBI 350 & 700R4) shifts too early as well, and the TV cable is adjusted to full pull at WOT, all stock bracketry. When in Drive, the converter does seem to lockup only in 4th as it should, but it shifts early. If I manually select 2nd, 3rd, etc.., then it locks up in every gear and lugs the engine. The problem is almost identical to what you are describing. I've been told to switch the governor weights, among other things, but I'd like to hear what you discovered first.

Thanks for listening. :D

TL
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
1986 Caprice 700R4 poor shift Remedy:

While installing a shift kit this wekend, I found the problem.....

In the 1-2 accumulator spring had some damage. In my transmission there were two springs one on top of the seperator plate (transmission side 3-4 shift) and one below the seperator plate (valve body side 1-2 shift). When I took the accumulator off to remove the seperator plate, the 1-2 spring on the valve body side was broken into two pieces.

When I went to the junk yard I removed the accumulator from an 86 Camaro. It had both springs in good condition, but there was a difference. On my transmission the 3-4 spring was longer and a lighter spring. But on the Camaro the springs were both shorter and a little more stout, about equal, but I marked them to know which was the 1-2 spring and which was the 3-4 spring.

I hope this helps out. Ill find out this weekend if the broken springs did any damage when I do the line pressure tests and the street tests. I planned to use the street/strip (hardest shifting) but ended up using the heavy duty as my reading skills/comprehension/not paying attention got in the way... I kept coorolating the street with easy shifting and their heavy duty with what I wanted... Oh well it has to be better than what I had.
 
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