Team Chevelle banner
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Wow This is my kind of thread. Individual that has done some homework and has had contact with the owner . Taken to the next step to verify info collected and questions have come up . Answers by very learned people not guessers. Now we procede to evaluating the car on build quality based on what is actually there. I hope others pay attention as this is how you try to buy a car.

With Dale, Mike,Rick and the others dissecting it I think you will get pretty close to $1K+/- on market value. If the car is really close to what you want try to leave some mental room for.....It ain't all about the money.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Wow This is my kind of thread. Individual that has done some homework and has had contact with the owner . Taken to the next step to verify info collected and questions have come up . Answers by very learned people not guessers. Now we procede to evaluating the car on build quality based on what is actually there. I hope others pay attention as this is how you try to buy a car.

With Dale, Mike,Rick and the others dissecting it I think you will get pretty close to $1K+/- on market value. If the car is really close to what you want try to leave some mental room for.....It ain't all about the money.
It is what I want...just need some wiggle room for a re-paint down the road. It does need rocker repair behind passenger door...has a big bubble. Other than that body is great. I will take a real body man with me next week to "really" inspect it. It has a 4 speed, cowl hood, every thing works like the gas gauge, dome light, reverse lights....this is important stuff to me. I would just build a different 454 or add a cam and some headers to get it where I want.
 
You might double-check the partial VIN stamped on the engine pad as well. If it's truly 70A129403, then it's been restamped as it should be 10A129403. A "1" and a "7" can look alike on a stamp if you're not paying real close attention.
Actually I have seen an error on an LS5 in a Corvette that was mis-stamped that way. Partial VIN was 70Sxxxxxx and it appeared genuine. There is more restamping going on in the Corvette world, but I think if it was a restamp they would have gotten it right. And again the broach marks and stamp on that one looked legitimate.

If the owner wants to sell the car, he will let you take better pictures of the pad stamping.
 
1. How do I get a better picture without asking the guy to remove the alternator?
2. The car was restored around 1995....would re-stamping be a common practice in that time period?
1. Simply loosen and remove the alternator adjusting bolt and washer and rotate the alternator toward the passenger side out of the way. You may also have to slightly loosen the bolt on the other side that the alternator pivots on to rotate it. You don't have to remove it, but you must rotate it out of the way so that you can get a clear straight on shot. Anybody selling a car with a matching motor price should be expected to provide this.

2. Yes, they were definitely re-stamping in 1995.

3. The original engine (or not) may not be important to you, but it will help determine a fair price and is critical as it can affect the price (up or down) by a significant amount. Maybe as much as $10k in your case that would be savings to you if it's NOM.

4. Post final pictures of the pad stamp here.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Joe, is the original trans. and rear still with the car? That's a big plus if it is.
I know for sure the M22 is NOT original. Owner did say that.
 
As I do not know these cars very well I did not respond to the asking price that I thought was pretty pricey. Mike has qualified my thoughts that it might be a mid 20's car if certain things hold together. A repaint needs more than a little wiggle room and usually a lot more work on the car comes with it. One bubble generally has partners also.

Much like a frog in biology class the car needs a complete disection. A lot of things to be considered here unless it just does not matter to the OP. Then he just needs to decide how much it is worth to him.
 
Any updates on this?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Will go back Sunday if it is still there.....owner says someone is coming Friday to look at it.
 
bcmiller mentioned to check the cast date. Although someone could technically have found a "date correct" block, its one quick and really easy thing to check. Should be on back of block behind distributor. If date is not roughly a month or so before (there are of course exceptions) I would be cautious.

I would guess (opinions) that pad stamping was going on back then, as the muscle car craze started several years prior.
 
Save your time and energy looking at the block stamp. It's bogus.
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts