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66 chevelle big block header problems

24K views 30 replies 21 participants last post by  forcd ind  
#1 · (Edited)
Tried flowtech coated headers and the passenger side wouldn't fit.(it hits the frame,needs to go forward about an inch) I have big block frame mounts and motor mounts.i went with theese because they said the steering box would clear and they would work with a/c. any suggestions on a set that fits without denting or bending to fit?
 
#3 ·
Jason , you can check out Sanderson Headers, they were the only ones that worked for me , and I tried about 3 sets, that I was told would work but did not,the Sanderson are a semi shorty and worked out very well with my exhaust clearance a doubled win...check out their website...might be worth your time.goodluck I know how headers can be:mad: Greg
 
#4 ·
What size tubes and collectors? I have regular old Hedman 2" primary/3" collector in my big block '66 with AFR heads (exh ports raised .3" if I remember correctly). The frame stands are small block, mounts are Moroso solids for the application. Three tubes required minor clearancing, #5 for the steering column, #2 and #4 for the right front upper control arm. It was possible to install both sides without alteration, but there was already contact or inevitable interference issues apparent in these areas.
 
#5 ·
I have Flowtechs 1.75" primary/3" collector noncoated headers for bigblock in my -66 velle. On the driverside they fitted perfect but on the passenger side I had to cut out a "ring" about 3/8" from the most forward primary pipe ( just after the 90 degree bend before the pipe goes in to the collector)and bend it back and reweld it to clear the crossmember.
 
#8 ·
You know that sounds kinda familiar now that you mentioned it. The interference with my upper right control arm was the same thing. I could have ground the lip that flares out around the bushings, but chose to "ding" the tubes instead. I think that I had to do that on the bottom, also. I'm pretty sure that mine are not the Elite series though. The part number number has been posted on TC before, probably a couple of years back now.

What size tubes on the Elite's.
 
#10 ·
You need to get the exact information for ordering from either JEGS or SUMMIT. But yes, those are the headers I (and others) have used with great success.

I don't know why no one can make a header that just fits but they don't. You most likely willneed to "adjust" (read ding the tube or grind an ear) for ANY brand header you use. However, I found the Hedman Elites to be excellent in quality, fitment and price. I bought mine from Summit.
 
#11 ·
This motor mount thing has me baffled. Too many choices. My 66 bigblock sits higher in the car than does my buddies. It is also higher in the front (not level). Any idea why they do this?
 
#12 ·
If both cars used the identical mounts on the frame, the engine, and the transmission/cross member; and both engines have identical heads, intakes and carbs, they would sit in the identical positions. One or these components are obviously different between the two vehicles in question.
 
#14 ·
I got that part Herb, my point was, WHY do they use different mounts? My car has a higher frame stand than my friends.Same year, Same block, same tranny. My engine just sits higher in the front and I see no reason for it.
Thanks.
 
#13 ·
Wow, those Hedman in the Jegs link above say the will fit both Camaros (steering box and linkage behind the crossmember) and Chevelles with steering in front of the crossmember. I'd probably have to see that with my own eyes.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Probably not. There seems to be only 3 different mounts by my count (not counting solids) that can be used. And two of them are identical in dimensions, the small block and big block mounts. The only difference between them is the lock-up feature on the stock BBC mounts. The 307 mount is a totally different animal but will work if the 307 frame mounts are used with the motor mounts. But it could be the frame mount that's different between the two cars.

That both engines sit differently and still fit the shrouds etc. is great. I never have that kind of luck. Mine would have been the one that the PO used a BOP mount from a Buick Special on and nothing I tried to bolt on would have fit right ;-)
 
#20 ·
Probably not. There seems to be only 3 different mounts by my count (not counting solids) that can be used. And two of them are identical in dimensions, the small block and big block mounts. The only difference between them is the lock-up feature on the stock BBC mounts. The 307 mount is a totally different animal but will work if the 307 frame mounts are used with the motor mounts. But it could be the frame mount that's different between the two cars.
If we are still talking about '66 Chevelles, there are two different V8 mounts, since a 307
wasn't an option. If you have a small block car (small block frame stands), a big block will drop in with either mount. However, a big block stand is wider and will not permit a small block mount to straddle it. Likewise, the BBC mount requires a longer bolt (front to back).

I have swapped big blocks into four different 66 Malibu's, with a multitute of different oil pans. Some pans wouldn't work with my windage tray (shallower), but all cleared the crossmember. My current 540 with Moroso solid mounts and small block stands has a 7 1/2 quart kickout Milodon pan with a sump at least one half inch lower than the crossmember.. While the engine can not be pulled with the transmission attached (tranny binds in tunnel before the kickouts clear the curve of the X-member), there is no interference or contact once installed.

When trying to manipulate the installed height of my 540, I purchased mounts (solid) for several applications. There is a pair that use longer ears (Moroso 62510), I'd have to check what they are supposed to fit. I only know the part number because the company that I bought them from went out of business, so they hang on my garage wall. Obviously these wouldn't work for me, the reason being, once mounted to an engine surface roughly at 45*, the longer ears spread the mount (front to back bolt) holes about an inch wider than that between the holes in right and left frame stands.

I am not certain whether stands of different years will actually bolt to '66 & '67 frames. If it is possible, I would have to surmise that one of these 66's has something other than the original, probably cannibalized from whatever the 454 came out of.

As far as shrouds, small and big blocks used fan shrouds. At one time, I had a variety, that fit both the small radiator, as well as, the larger SS (big block radiators). I provided Don at Alumitech information and photo's when he was developing his all aluminum replacement radiators. I have since sold most of the BBC stuff, but I remember somebody posting something along the line of being able to flip a SBC shroud upside down when swapping in a BBC, while using the same radiator. I don't know the validity of this claim, just thought that I'd pass it on. I guess it's plausible, because the round side is offset (up and down) to the rectangular side.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Can't recall if they used a fan shroud in 66. If so, I can't believe they used different mounts on the same model and engine. That's the one place it could be a real problem. I believe all 67 BBs used a fan shroud and therefore all had to use the same height engine mounts on those models to allow proper verticle fan positioning.

My Chevelle came without the shroud and a four blade fan.
It was a Michigan car and 325 HP
 
#24 ·
Alright I have to chime in here. I am currently trying to drop my 582 Shafiroff into my 66 chevelle convertible. The problem I am currently having is my Moroso pan is hitting on the crossmember. I have tried both the small block stands and the big block motor mount stands. I have the Energy suspension motor mounts and from what I understand those are universal for either small and big blocks. I am also going to be running Lemons Headers and they are designed to be used with the small block stands. I also have there tubular crossmember. I have been told the small block stands sit higher than the big block. It looks to me like the engine needs to sit farther back to clear my crossmember. Some people have suggested knotching the crossmember. I just keep hoping there is a simple fix and I am just missing something. Anybody have any wise suggestions?
 
#26 ·
In my 67 I used those cheap flow-tech ceramic coated headers and had to cut out 3/4 inch ring bend and weld it back together...these headers will not fit with out modification.
But they were cheap and still look good from the engine compartment.
I'm in the same boat as you bad fitting oil pan guy's. I bought a cheap made in china or where ever kick out pan and had to bend the front of the sump in an inch and a half to get her in.
:mad: not sure how companies can get away with selling crap that only fits after you take a pry-bar, sledge hammer, cut off wheel and welder to it.
I wont buy anything anymore with out finding a part # on this web-site...

Paul
 
#30 ·
I never have problems with Hookers.:D
They install from the bottom,follow the instructions and give yourself about 4 hours for the install.
Carefully get all the bolts started,and torque them evenly.
You cannot torque the easy bolts first,and go back for the hard ones,as the bolts will bind and probably leak.
Some bolts will require a small open end wrench and turns of very small amounts.
Can get tedious for a new guy.
Take your time.
It will be worth it when you get behind the wheel.
 
#31 ·
wow, this post came back from the dead, lol
super comps are a tighter fit than comps-one thing about Hookers, if your using headbolts with washers, it can be a nightmare if the engine is in the car-the flanges hit some of the head bolts, and need to be clearanced-a real PITA grinding, fitting, grinding-you get it, lol